I would be curious to have the references of all the transistors to give an idea of the origin of the diagram (USA/EU/Japan) but yes it looks like classic Hitachi, I like it a lot.
Very nice amplifiers. Please notice it are power amplifiers so you'll need a volume controlled device driving them. Otherwise FULL volume. They're not class A but high bias class AB I think, I vaguely remember having seen these before. AFAIK these were sold as a kit. In the time they were built people did a strange thing: they overdimensioned parts and heatsinks. So heatsinks were chosen larger and more expensive than needed. Quite contradictory to the culture of doing things the cheapest way. The thought was to have things executed best way and larger heatsinks mean even lower temperature, larger filter caps mean lower ripple voltage. Crazy isn't it?! They had chosen higher sound quality and higher reliability over lower costs.
It would not hurt to replace the electrolytic decoupling caps on the PCBs as these were made a while ago. Regreasing the connections between L brackets and heatsinks is also part of the normal procedure when checking old amplifiers. It would be advisable to check the idle current and adjust accordingly. If unsure then don't change anything but please do measure idle current. It would be a pity when you slip while measuring and damage stuff. For peace of mind I would compare fuse values of the left and right channels and simple replace them all for new ones (doing stuff right and not cheapest way so excluding risks). I can't see anything resembling a power on/off mains switch so these could be added if you like.
Forget the FM blah blah, probably the word FM was remembered as they were used in studio of a (pirate 🙂) FM transmitter or the like.
All in all a good find deserving some time and care.
It would not hurt to replace the electrolytic decoupling caps on the PCBs as these were made a while ago. Regreasing the connections between L brackets and heatsinks is also part of the normal procedure when checking old amplifiers. It would be advisable to check the idle current and adjust accordingly. If unsure then don't change anything but please do measure idle current. It would be a pity when you slip while measuring and damage stuff. For peace of mind I would compare fuse values of the left and right channels and simple replace them all for new ones (doing stuff right and not cheapest way so excluding risks). I can't see anything resembling a power on/off mains switch so these could be added if you like.
Forget the FM blah blah, probably the word FM was remembered as they were used in studio of a (pirate 🙂) FM transmitter or the like.
All in all a good find deserving some time and care.
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Ah you're in it for the money. I don't know, they are made to a high quality standard. I would buy them when I would find them but only for low prices. Point being that many like quality and good sounding devices but are interested less in "value" and "resale value". Often older devices are acquired for acceptable prices and then overhauled as a kind of respect to the quality of the device and to extend longevity. Overhauling costs time and money. The selling kind tends to forget that time and money. Different game.
I paid 7.5 Euro for this one a few weeks ago. Only to overhaul it as it is a good tuner. Probably someone will like it a lot when it is finished. The "added value" is that it will have new electrolytic capacitors and it will be scratchless. This justifies a higher "resale value" IMHO.
I paid 7.5 Euro for this one a few weeks ago. Only to overhaul it as it is a good tuner. Probably someone will like it a lot when it is finished. The "added value" is that it will have new electrolytic capacitors and it will be scratchless. This justifies a higher "resale value" IMHO.
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I only think in the eyes of those who want them.
Someone said people would always prefer **** made of gold to a masterpiece of plaster
Someone said people would always prefer **** made of gold to a masterpiece of plaster
No not in it for the money ( I won them for £85 the pair ) so I think an absolute bargain, I fully intend to use them in place of my pass labs Aleph 3 .
from what we all see in the photos, it can be a great amp and built like a battle tank.
If you take the usual precautions to control the basics (chemical capacitors, soldering, adjustments) you probably have a pair of amps for the rest of your life.
£85 🤯🤪👏
If you take the usual precautions to control the basics (chemical capacitors, soldering, adjustments) you probably have a pair of amps for the rest of your life.
£85 🤯🤪👏
If one day it tempts you, I have a very good and beautiful Saba MT 201 black waiting for a new owner 😉
Yes absolute bargain is the best description. Congratulations, I hope they sound just as fine as they look.
@huggygood: no this Arcam is an exception. One can try to save various stuff but when one does not use it oneself then why?
@huggygood: no this Arcam is an exception. One can try to save various stuff but when one does not use it oneself then why?
Yes I'm there too, I kept too many devices, now I'm starting to empty.
Less stuff = less sorrows = less maintenance = more space in the home. Look around, see the many hoarders and fight the habit if it develops as when it matures it is very hard to get rid of. External storage is a 100% sign that things are off. Only yesterday I helped out cleaning out a mountain of stuff. Went to recycling 5 times in a row and we go on coming week.
Just 1 set of high performance devices that one really uses is enough.
Just 1 set of high performance devices that one really uses is enough.
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Look for date codes on caps. Do some googling how to decypher those yourself and please tell us here how it works. I think around 1986.
You are a good photographer exactly choosing an angle so date codes don’t show 🙂
The 33,000 uF by Philips should have a Philips date code. Enlighten the community how to decypher Philips date codes please. Take and give.
You are a good photographer exactly choosing an angle so date codes don’t show 🙂
The 33,000 uF by Philips should have a Philips date code. Enlighten the community how to decypher Philips date codes please. Take and give.
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This is so true!
But then there is this inner voice telling me to try and build new stuff. And those beautiful old unobtanium parts looking at me, begging to be used...
Too bad I edited “1982..1986” to “1986”. First thoughts were right as usual.
Please tell those that read how you found that. The stage is yours.
Nothing wrong with building new stuff. It helps against insanity 😉
Please tell those that read how you found that. The stage is yours.
Fight the habit to stock stuff, it is not the hoarder that will clean out the house but the partner and children.
Nothing wrong with building new stuff. It helps against insanity 😉
Last line of wording on the caps read
2222 114 18333 so I decipher the last 4 digits so 8333 = 1983 week 33
2222 114 18333 so I decipher the last 4 digits so 8333 = 1983 week 33
Personally it is both my zen garden and my psychotherapy.
My head tells me "don't buy" my heart tells me the opposite.
15 days ago I came across Kenwood KA-1000 for the price of 3 packs of cigarettes and since I no longer smoke ...