I need a sub amp to build. Needs to authoritatively control the cone, with as little "bounce" as possible. The Pass forum is where I'm posting because that's where I have gotten to "know" the people. If it needs to be kicked to another forum, so be it. Probably does not need to be class a biased. A big dang power supply and some mosfets on a big dang heat sink, with the minimum amount of extraneous parts is my vision. Thanks.
Jeffrey Hill (builds so far: F5, Aikido Tube Pre, B1 Buffer, two 18"Subs (each in a 10 cu.ft. cabinet).
Jeffrey Hill (builds so far: F5, Aikido Tube Pre, B1 Buffer, two 18"Subs (each in a 10 cu.ft. cabinet).
Class D everytime because they can control your power as you need it. The Bounce as you describe it is probably down to the cabinet or speaker, not the amp.
There is authoritative control that a big power transformer in a big amp can have (for instance when compared to a mass market receiver) that is not a speaker driver issue. I equate it to something connected with a steel rod versus a rubber band. I'll look into class D, but I know little about it. I can buy one ready made for a couple hundred bucks that puts out a thousand watts, but I am trying to build an entire system a piece at a time. Thanks. More info of whatever sort is welcome. My F5 / Aikido combo is awesome. Have yet to try the B1 with F5.
Thanks, y'all.
Thanks, y'all.
I am using a CROWN K2 (below 100 approx) I got used along with a J2 (100 TO 500) and SIT1s from 500 up.
All three seem to get along very well.
I could be tempted to try the n-core but that's $1300.00 before case and such.
The CROWN I got two years ago as a temporary amp. Have not been motivated to replace it.
All three seem to get along very well.
I could be tempted to try the n-core but that's $1300.00 before case and such.
The CROWN I got two years ago as a temporary amp. Have not been motivated to replace it.
I'll second the crown recommendation. I have a pair of the ce2000 to do bass duty. Enough power to never clip in my system.
I want to find something I can build, (but not design). I love to solder. It's probably my second favorite thing!😉
I suggest buy a good Class D amp for the sub, then focus the DIY time for fancy amps for the main speakers. If you DIY sub amps then you likely need much power, thus probably close to lethal voltages in the end which is always nice to avoid.
I'm personally sitting with Hypex UcDs in up to ~ 300 hz and then frankenstein F2J-ish amps above that.
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Ok, I give. Seems like there should be some simple arc-welder-esque design that doesn't have high-end for squat but has lots of grunt. A super simple front end into big mamma mosfets. Still fishin'.
How much power do you need for your subs? What is their nominal impedance? Can you handle the extra heat of class A for subs?
Since you want to build a build something rather than buy Class D there are options. The AX-100 in the sticky threads can be scaled up - higher rails and more output devices watching dissipation in the front end.
Most likely you want to go class AB and avoid several hundred watts of heat dissipation. There is a Pass option, but it will require scaling. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/227503-ab100-class-ab-power-amplifier.html Notice it uses bipolar outputs - Papa doesn't encourage class AB mosfets. You can bridge a pair for up to 400W into 8R. If your subs are less than 8 ohms, you should add more output devices and drivers.
The Honey Badger (boards available in the store) can be built to deliver several hundred watts into 4 ohms. It's almost a kit with boards and enclosure available from the store. If your subs are 8 ohms, consider bridging Honey Badgers. Leach amps can also be scaled for high power, although boards are harder to come by.
Since you want to build a build something rather than buy Class D there are options. The AX-100 in the sticky threads can be scaled up - higher rails and more output devices watching dissipation in the front end.
Most likely you want to go class AB and avoid several hundred watts of heat dissipation. There is a Pass option, but it will require scaling. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/227503-ab100-class-ab-power-amplifier.html Notice it uses bipolar outputs - Papa doesn't encourage class AB mosfets. You can bridge a pair for up to 400W into 8R. If your subs are less than 8 ohms, you should add more output devices and drivers.
The Honey Badger (boards available in the store) can be built to deliver several hundred watts into 4 ohms. It's almost a kit with boards and enclosure available from the store. If your subs are 8 ohms, consider bridging Honey Badgers. Leach amps can also be scaled for high power, although boards are harder to come by.
Thanks, I'll read up on the honey badger. I've run them successfully with a Parsound 2200, Classe DR-9, and Krell KSA80b. 100 watts of grunt is adequate for my porpoise. Thanks again!
I am currently putting together two 12inch subs. my current plan is to drive them with bridged AX11 monos (you can find details burried in the long thread by Mile (a.k.a ApexAudio) http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/164093-100w-ultimate-fidelity-amplifier.html
in the same thread there are references to many scaled versions of the same amp, as well as to his other amps.
in the same thread there are references to many scaled versions of the same amp, as well as to his other amps.
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