Yes, I understand what he is getting at. I was originally going to solder on the component side of the board.
Its hard to see the tracks clearly on the component side now the board is populated. I think Daniel may have a valid point.
Puffin have a look on the component side of your boards and follow the tracks.
Its hard to see the tracks clearly on the component side now the board is populated. I think Daniel may have a valid point.
Puffin have a look on the component side of your boards and follow the tracks.
Post#39 shows. . . not a doofus.
The first time I put one of these together, I was terribly mixed up.
In comparison, forgetting to buy rosin flux is pretty minor.
Did you buy any yet?
Its really very necessary for those dodgy gold contacts. They're plated in some kind of malicious non-stick substance--sort of like, conductive, yellow-colored teflon.
The first time I put one of these together, I was terribly mixed up.
In comparison, forgetting to buy rosin flux is pretty minor.
Did you buy any yet?
Its really very necessary for those dodgy gold contacts. They're plated in some kind of malicious non-stick substance--sort of like, conductive, yellow-colored teflon.
Tripmaster said:
danielwritesbac said:Post#39 shows. . . not a doofus.
The first time I put one of these together, I was terribly mixed up.
In comparison, forgetting to buy rosin flux is pretty minor.
Did you buy any yet?
Its really very necessary for those dodgy gold contacts. They're plated in some kind of malicious non-stick substance--sort of like, conductive, yellow-colored teflon.
The picture in 'Post 39' is how its always been and still is. I have not removed the jumper yet. Did you think I had rotated the diode 90 degrees?
Tripmaster said:
Ah no. But many people get it really, really mixed up.
Hey, remember to chop that jumper.
You don't need a jumper.
If you use a desoldering iron on that, and flux the inside of the hole, then you can solder to the inside of the hole, and won't need a jumper at all.
The insides of the holes are conductive.
danielwritesbac said:
Ah no. But many people get it really, really mixed up.
Hey, remember to chop that jumper.
You don't need a jumper.
If you use a desoldering iron on that, and flux the inside of the hole, then you can solder to the inside of the hole, and won't need a jumper at all.
The insides of the holes are conductive.
I will do it tonight. Thanks for your help.
Tripmaster. I use a valve pre-amp from Icon Audio. The best £375 I have ever spent on a piece of Hi Fi. It really adds very little, but takes nothing away, and adds a certain ambience that is hard to describe. Soft and woolly it is certainly not. Crisp and detaied I would say.
I use a home made remote controlled passive (Alps Blue Pot) in between the Valve pre and main amp. I know it puts something else in the signal path, but I cannot do without R.C. I often run the gainclone straight from the passive just for a change, as it sounds almost as good (but not quite!)
If you like the Chipamp amp them you ought to try a point to point one (have a look at Decibel Dungeon or Mick F (playstation mods guy) for the details. I bought the chipamp kit originally because I tried many times to build a P2P, but failed. With a little more knowledge having build the kit, I persevered and built a P2P.
It gives you great satisfaction and I have become a Gainclone fanatic. I have half a dozen now (some LM3886's and some LM3875) I think the LM3875 is more to my taste. They are so easy to tweak as well.
I use a home made remote controlled passive (Alps Blue Pot) in between the Valve pre and main amp. I know it puts something else in the signal path, but I cannot do without R.C. I often run the gainclone straight from the passive just for a change, as it sounds almost as good (but not quite!)
If you like the Chipamp amp them you ought to try a point to point one (have a look at Decibel Dungeon or Mick F (playstation mods guy) for the details. I bought the chipamp kit originally because I tried many times to build a P2P, but failed. With a little more knowledge having build the kit, I persevered and built a P2P.
It gives you great satisfaction and I have become a Gainclone fanatic. I have half a dozen now (some LM3886's and some LM3875) I think the LM3875 is more to my taste. They are so easy to tweak as well.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.