I want to buy a pair of 2a3 for my Tubelab SE amp.
I found locally the following choices:
1) NOS JJ 2A3-40 $320
2) Sovtek $75
3) Golden Dragon Premium $160
4) EH $110
5) Tronal $190
Then there are also Full Music and KR, but far more expensive.
What do you recommend ?
Thanks,
Davide
I found locally the following choices:
1) NOS JJ 2A3-40 $320
2) Sovtek $75
3) Golden Dragon Premium $160
4) EH $110
5) Tronal $190
Then there are also Full Music and KR, but far more expensive.
What do you recommend ?
Thanks,
Davide
Antique Electronic Supply has the JJ 2A3-40 tubes for $242.50/pair.
Shipping to Tokyo would add a significant amount.
I've never used the JJ 2A3-40 tubes. I am using their 7591's. They're good.
Shipping to Tokyo would add a significant amount.
I've never used the JJ 2A3-40 tubes. I am using their 7591's. They're good.
1) NOS JJ 2A3-40 $320
I dont think there could be a JJ NOS, but only a Tesla NOS 😕 unless they actually are Tesla NOS tubes relabelled by JJ ?
I want to buy a pair of 2a3 for my Tubelab SE amp.
I found locally the following choices:
1) NOS JJ 2A3-40 $320
2) Sovtek $75
3) Golden Dragon Premium $160
4) EH $110
5) Tronal $190
Then there are also Full Music and KR, but far more expensive.
What do you recommend ?
Thanks,
Davide
The JJ is a 300B with 2.5V filament supply.
Also the Sovetk, EH and GD premium with that single plate don't measure exactly like a 2A3.
I would go for the normal Golden Dragon (double plate) that is a true and very good 2A3. It has also got a gold grid. You just need a good selection for mutual conductance because it can vary quite a bit, from approx. 4.2 to 5.2 mA/V typically. Actually this was and is true also for NOS tubes....
As vintage option there is the Russian 6C4C. This is very good as well but requires a DC filament supply. It is an improved copy of the RCA design, IMHO. This has the advantage of higher maximum rating for plate voltage (360V instead of 300V).
45
My five cents:
2A3C Mono Plate Shuguang $108
Sophia 2A3 Mesh Plate $195
Regards, Konstantin
In my experience mesh tubes work badly when driven into positive grid as in the Tubelab amp. As soon as you drive the grid positive you get a really hard clipping....
45
I wouldn't recommend Sovtek 2A3 based on what happened to my Tubelab SE here. Its current draw is higher than other 2A3 thus it exceeds the current handling limit of the regulator on the board causing it to drop out of regulation and pass hum through to the output tubes.2) Sovtek $75
A fan of the jj 2a3's - using them vs eh2a3 was quite significant (in a couple of amps). Less glare in the treble and better bass with the jj's.
NOS JJ ??? Since when? JJ has been around for how long (as a label, I know it was Tesla before)? 8 years? New Old Stock is a ridiculous buzzword. I guess "Sitting on the shelf for 5 years" doesn't sound nearly as cool....
On the other hand, I have recently stumbled upon an electronic parts shop that has loads of Mullard "mustard" caps. Anybody interested?
On the other hand, I have recently stumbled upon an electronic parts shop that has loads of Mullard "mustard" caps. Anybody interested?
A fan of the jj 2a3's - using them vs eh2a3 was quite significant (in a couple of amps). Less glare in the treble and better bass with the jj's.
If not compared directly, the HF 'glare' of EH2A3 is that bad?
I'm using EH2A3 now, not feeling its glaring treble. Compared to my previous 6S45 spud, it's slightly brighter in HF, but not to the degree of 'glare'. And I guess it can be largely affected by other factors, like power supplies, OPT, driver circuit... etc., other than the output tube itself...
Interestingly, its mid to lower mid is also richer, fuller, with more punch and strength. So overall a more energetic and blooming sound, not thin or clinical at all. I like it a lot.
Oh well, that's not even a 2A3 comparison😱 I've only used EH by now. And it serves 240Hz and up, so I don't know it's bass performance.
Thank you very much for the advices. Reading around I realize that NOS JJ sounds silly. I will check in the shop, maybe they are Tesla. Anyway it looks like they are mainly 300B with 2.5 V Filament. I already have a pair of 300B, so maybe there is not much point, as the goal is to try something else. I am running the amp with the 45 now, but the OPT can handle the current of the 2a3 as well.
Thanks,
Davide
Thanks,
Davide
Thank you very much for the advices. Reading around I realize that NOS JJ sounds silly. I will check in the shop, maybe they are Tesla. Anyway it looks like they are mainly 300B with 2.5 V Filament. I already have a pair of 300B, so maybe there is not much point, as the goal is to try something else. I am running the amp with the 45 now, but the OPT can handle the current of the 2a3 as well.
Thanks,
Davide
Yes, I read somewhere else that they are 300B's. They are just keeping their costs down.
try a 6B4G
you might try a 6b4g . an seller in Europe is currently selling a Sylvania manufactured . joint army navy version for €55 each . and they will match and test em . if you ask it nicely .
get some 78s06 and make something nice .
you might try a 6b4g . an seller in Europe is currently selling a Sylvania manufactured . joint army navy version for €55 each . and they will match and test em . if you ask it nicely .
get some 78s06 and make something nice .
I thought 6B4G, but it's octal, I am kind of lazy, just want to do tube rolling adjusting the bias.
D.
D.
When comparing output tubes only, B+ voltage and bias should be checked to see how much of discrepancies there are between them. One can change the way tube amp sounds without switching output tubes. Just tinker with those two parameters. So many online reviews about OPT don't mention such things. 🙄 Take them with a grain of salt.other than the output tube itself...
When comparing output tubes only, B+ voltage and bias should be checked to see how much of discrepancies there are between them. One can change the way tube amp sounds without switching output tubes. Just tinker with those two parameters. So many online reviews about OPT don't mention such things. 🙄 Take them with a grain of salt.
This is what I always think when I read about the "sound of the rectifier": changing rectifier you modify the B+ and the impedance of the PSU, no wonder that the amp sound different.
D.
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