The board is likely held in with hot glue. Epoxy is far too expensive and its strength is unnecessary for this application. A good chance of damage being done attempting removal. Heat will definitely help but can be tricky to apply without overdoing it. The coils and resistor are likely going to be okay but the cap and polyswitch might be an issue. I would start with a hairdryer.
Thanks NareshBrd. I was running the complete speaker as I had hoped to identify which one was at fault. I will try your suggestion of trying just the big drivers only when I get time tomorrow. If I need a new crossover do you think these would do? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11566877...BmDSXwFIPqJhruClgSQsLP/k0=|tkp:Bk9SR8Lg9fHYYQ
I would not recommend crossovers, not my area of expertise.
Cal and Galu are already posting here, that should be sufficient.
Take their opinion.
A heat gun is really a very powerful big brother of a hair dryer, but it needs experience to use, and most people would have a hair dryer handy, not so for heat guns.
Cal and Galu are already posting here, that should be sufficient.
Take their opinion.
A heat gun is really a very powerful big brother of a hair dryer, but it needs experience to use, and most people would have a hair dryer handy, not so for heat guns.
Confusing, yes!
Re removing the crossover: Wharfedale usually screwed the board down, but I can't see any screws in this one.
If there is sufficient access, I would try to gently prise the boards free using a broad, sharp wood working chisel.
Don't worry too much about damaging the board because, as Naresh says, we can easily re-rig the crossover!
Yes, please be clear as we attempt to troubleshoot by using different scenarios. By "big drivers", Naresh means the woofers.
EDIT: I missed the previous 3 posts!
Re removing the crossover: Wharfedale usually screwed the board down, but I can't see any screws in this one.
If there is sufficient access, I would try to gently prise the boards free using a broad, sharp wood working chisel.
Don't worry too much about damaging the board because, as Naresh says, we can easily re-rig the crossover!
Yes, please be clear as we attempt to troubleshoot by using different scenarios. By "big drivers", Naresh means the woofers.
EDIT: I missed the previous 3 posts!
https://www.radiomuseum.org/r/pioneer_sx_600l.html
The outputs look like transistor pairs, rating is 46W (both in total?)
Check the transistors are firmly bolted, after spreading fresh heat sink compound.
See Post #9, Steve has posted a crossover circuit used by Wharfedale in their Laser 90B model.
The outputs look like transistor pairs, rating is 46W (both in total?)
Check the transistors are firmly bolted, after spreading fresh heat sink compound.
See Post #9, Steve has posted a crossover circuit used by Wharfedale in their Laser 90B model.
The above crossovers are from the Wharfedale Delta 50 and are identical to those of the Wharfedale Programme 50 we are discussing.
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I have some Alcap caps left-over from a batch I used when I recapped my pair of old Wharfedale Glendale 3XPs, so I'll see if I have any 4.7uF ones. If not I know where to get them. I may see how feasible it is to try the idea of snipping the old caps off and attaching new ones to the remains of the lead leaving the crossover plate in situ. Thanks
Sadly, due to other commitments over the next few weeks, I have had to give up on these speakers and have returned them to their owner. Thank you everyone for all the expertise and knowledge (& time) you have all put into this. Extremely grateful to everyone for this.
Hello folks, I hope I'm in the right place. I have a pair of Wharfdale speakers (vintage) Dovedale 3. The bass speaker 102.15 model 3014 6ohms dc in one of the cabs cuts out . If I give it a tap or gentle push , it kicks back in. Can anyone advise ?
You are 🙂
If you are gently pushing the cone and it cuts back in then it sounds like an intermittent connection either within the voice coil (bad news) or maybe where the coil connects to the 'tails' (not great news but might be fixable) or a bad connection where the terminals are wired to the crossover. The tails are where the thin voice coil wire connects to the flexible tail of wire that goes to the terminals.
You need to have good look first and check any obvious connections for good connection.
If it looks like this then the arrowed part is where it gets tricky as that is where the thin voice coil wires connects to the tails. You need to be sure that is where the issue is before even thinking about whether its fixable. All other connections are easy to get at.
See what you find first.
See what you find first.
Hello Molly, thanks for getting back to me. Electrics really isn t my bag, but I've taken the speaker out and all the wires seem to be connected and clean.
An intermittent fault does not always give a visible indication.
Try wiggling the woofer connecting wires and the flexible tails around while music is playing to see what action causes the cut out of sound.
Hmmm. Based on what you say about pushing (I assume you mean on the cone) then that really does point to a break somewhere. The point where the tails connect to the coil is the point that can see flexing in use as the cone moves. If these have been used with vinyl (and so lots of rumble that moves the cone a lot but quite slowly) then that can be a cause.
All you can do initially is connect the speaker to the amp and gently move the tails with a biro or similar and see firstly if you can recreate the problem and get it to cut out. See what you have to touch, prod and poke to get it to cut out.
This is what rumble does. You can't hear it but there is lots of flexing:
All you can do initially is connect the speaker to the amp and gently move the tails with a biro or similar and see firstly if you can recreate the problem and get it to cut out. See what you have to touch, prod and poke to get it to cut out.
This is what rumble does. You can't hear it but there is lots of flexing: