Yes Steve, now you mention it, I've heard of that before.
Removing the grille sockets may reveal the screws which secure the plastic fascia.
Thanks!
Removing the grille sockets may reveal the screws which secure the plastic fascia.
Thanks!
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Found it
Hi there it’s me again. Just found it that every hole on this facia has a rubber grommet and underneath it are all philips screws. Now I can see the crossover and 2 electrolytic caps.
Hi there it’s me again. Just found it that every hole on this facia has a rubber grommet and underneath it are all philips screws. Now I can see the crossover and 2 electrolytic caps.
Good!
For the record, a photograph of the crossover board would be appreciated.
I presume, having got this far, you will fit new capacitors.
If so, do let us know if that solves your audio problem.
For the record, a photograph of the crossover board would be appreciated.
I presume, having got this far, you will fit new capacitors.
If so, do let us know if that solves your audio problem.
I can see two electrolytic capacitors (the vertically orientated blue cylinders) and one film capacitor (the horizontally orientated yellow cylinder).
There is no need to change the yellow film capacitor as it does not deteriorate with age. If you choose to buy new electrolytic capacitors, ensure you get bipolar types designed especially for loudspeaker crossovers.
Thks
Thanks brother👍
1.5 uF / 50 V
3.3 uF / 100 V MPP (Film)
Go for good quality ones. 105 degrees for electrolytic.
Thanks brother👍
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