I have 6 wharfdale linton 3xp's. at least one of them has very little mid, ive connected the mid to the tweeter output and the driver works, but on the mid connection the sound is very faint.
also the crossovers have the original elcap capacitors!!! ive tried finding replacements but it would seem the only thing I can use is some motor 250v caps.
really need advice on best way to get them back to running order. ive replaced the tweeters already with some from maplins by audax.
is it worth recapping them?
also the crossovers have the original elcap capacitors!!! ive tried finding replacements but it would seem the only thing I can use is some motor 250v caps.
really need advice on best way to get them back to running order. ive replaced the tweeters already with some from maplins by audax.
is it worth recapping them?
You can connect the midranges directly to your amplifier and crank up carefully to hear if their sensitivity is about normal and if they don't make objectionable noises.
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New NP electrolytic capacitors as usually preferred in the bass section where fitted as original. They are also small.
Electrolytic Capacitors
Elsewhere 250V polypropylenes are an alternative.
MKP Polypropylene Capacitors
But check you have room to fit them for the larger values.
Electrolytic Capacitors
Elsewhere 250V polypropylenes are an alternative.
MKP Polypropylene Capacitors
But check you have room to fit them for the larger values.
system7 your a star,
any ideas why the mid is very faint? caps?
also I checked the site and the only one I cant see on there is the 4uf. how can I get that one?
which cap does the bass? is it which ever one is in parallel with the bass?
there's a 4uf, 12uf, and 25uf in there all 50v np presumably polypropylene.
any ideas why the mid is very faint? caps?
also I checked the site and the only one I cant see on there is the 4uf. how can I get that one?
which cap does the bass? is it which ever one is in parallel with the bass?
there's a 4uf, 12uf, and 25uf in there all 50v np presumably polypropylene.
these are the tweeter I used:
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../audax-tw025a0-1-textile-dome-tweeter-by-aac/
not knowing a great deal at the time about speakers I just bought what I thought would work as a replacement for the wharfdale originals.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c.../audax-tw025a0-1-textile-dome-tweeter-by-aac/
not knowing a great deal at the time about speakers I just bought what I thought would work as a replacement for the wharfdale originals.
Really we have no idea yet why the mid is faint. Could be a dry joint, a faded 12uF capacitor or the mid itself.
Below is what I know about this nice little Wharfedale Linton XP3 speaker and crossover.
I would definitely use 12uF and 25uF non-polar wet electrolytics in the bass and mid section. You need their small DC resistance (less than 1 ohm) to keep filters well behaved here. A 3.9uF polypropylene should be OK in the tweeter filter.
Check and write down wiring polarity on the drive units before disassembling anything. I seemed to get ++- on my sim, and it all lined up quite nicely. 1kHz and 3kHz crossover, so the tweeter gets an easy ride.
I would have replaced the special Wharfedale cone tweeters with these:
Monacor :: Monacor HT-22/8 10W Cone Tweeter ONLY 6.00
Probably need a 5.6R + 5.6R (7W wirewounds) attenuator after the filter.
Below is what I know about this nice little Wharfedale Linton XP3 speaker and crossover.
I would definitely use 12uF and 25uF non-polar wet electrolytics in the bass and mid section. You need their small DC resistance (less than 1 ohm) to keep filters well behaved here. A 3.9uF polypropylene should be OK in the tweeter filter.
Check and write down wiring polarity on the drive units before disassembling anything. I seemed to get ++- on my sim, and it all lined up quite nicely. 1kHz and 3kHz crossover, so the tweeter gets an easy ride.
I would have replaced the special Wharfedale cone tweeters with these:
Monacor :: Monacor HT-22/8 10W Cone Tweeter ONLY 6.00
Probably need a 5.6R + 5.6R (7W wirewounds) attenuator after the filter.
Attachments
do I need the attenuators for my current setup with the audax tweeters?
where would these attenuators go?
where would these attenuators go?
Ye Gods, attenuators are easy enough! They go before the driver and are designed to keep impedance around 8 ohms. You must always consider level when changing tweeters. Nothing worse than an overly bright tweeter. 🙂
Another way is to fit a calculated Zobel to correct impedance, and adjust a single resistor in front of the filter. Each ohm attenuates about 1dB. 5.8R and 0.03mH for the audax. I find this less fiddly overall, and corrects the rising response which the Audax has.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/audax-soft-dome-tweeters/audax-tw025a0-1-textile-dome-tweeter-by-aac/
Impedance Equalization (L-Pad) Circuit Designer / Calculator
Another way is to fit a calculated Zobel to correct impedance, and adjust a single resistor in front of the filter. Each ohm attenuates about 1dB. 5.8R and 0.03mH for the audax. I find this less fiddly overall, and corrects the rising response which the Audax has.
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/audax-soft-dome-tweeters/audax-tw025a0-1-textile-dome-tweeter-by-aac/
Impedance Equalization (L-Pad) Circuit Designer / Calculator
Attachments
sorry total noob at this stuff. done electronics before but not speakers. I take it the diagram shows two possible ways of wiring it. so this will bring the audax back inline more with the other drivers?
the reason im looking at rebuilding them is for my surround setup, I have 6. im currently using these V10 | Monitor Audio with a sub. im not sure what it is but the monitor audio's don't seem as nice to listen to. opinion?
Falcon Acoustics have replacement capacitors for the Elcap capacitors.
ClarityCap Solen & Alcap capacitors, audio components for loudspeaker crossovers.
I recently tested some KEF DN12 crossover units with the Elcaps that were 1970's vintage.
Most of the Elcaps were OK but one 7uF had failed completely and one 5uF was well under spec. They are quite cheap to buy, I would probably just replace all the caps with new ones.
ClarityCap Solen & Alcap capacitors, audio components for loudspeaker crossovers.
I recently tested some KEF DN12 crossover units with the Elcaps that were 1970's vintage.
Most of the Elcaps were OK but one 7uF had failed completely and one 5uF was well under spec. They are quite cheap to buy, I would probably just replace all the caps with new ones.
am I ok to just replace all the caps with electrolytic?
which diagram should I use to balance the tweeter?
which diagram should I use to balance the tweeter?
also if I build the zobel thingy what tolerance should the resistors and 0.68uf cap be and what material?
on the zobel front I can only find a 10w 2.4ohm and 7.5 ohm, would this suffice?
on the zobel front I can only find a 10w 2.4ohm and 7.5 ohm, would this suffice?
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cypher007, you are starting to worry me! This is not rocket science! 🙂
I have disassembled your Linton 3XP crossover effectively. It's no great shakes, but works. Frankly it needs a 8uF shunt too on the mid filter, but that is deeper stuff.
You need a new 4uF or 3.9uF polypropylene or N.P tweeter capacitor. Also some new regular 12uF and 25uF 50V N.P. electrolytics in the bass and mid section.
ClarityCap Solen & Alcap capacitors, audio components for loudspeaker crossovers.
MKP Polypropylene Capacitors
You'll need to get a Maplin 40W soldering iron and some lead-free solder to fix this. They also have good stocks of wirewound resistors. DIY needs tools and measurement.
We really need to figure out what is wrong with the midrange. It would be good to take it out of circuit and test it alone. It should read 6 ohms on a multimeter for starts if functional. Your quick and dirty soft-dome Audax tweeter replacement was ill-judged. A cone tweeter and attenuator is indicated here for the musical Wharfedale sound. Soft domes are the worst thing that has happened to audio in the last 30 years, IMO.
I mix and match components a lot. Here's a KEF-type acoustic butterworth minus speaker wires:
I have revised my polarity estimate. I get +-+ now. The circuit is a bit rough and ready, so it's hard to judge. 😱
I have disassembled your Linton 3XP crossover effectively. It's no great shakes, but works. Frankly it needs a 8uF shunt too on the mid filter, but that is deeper stuff.
You need a new 4uF or 3.9uF polypropylene or N.P tweeter capacitor. Also some new regular 12uF and 25uF 50V N.P. electrolytics in the bass and mid section.
ClarityCap Solen & Alcap capacitors, audio components for loudspeaker crossovers.
MKP Polypropylene Capacitors
You'll need to get a Maplin 40W soldering iron and some lead-free solder to fix this. They also have good stocks of wirewound resistors. DIY needs tools and measurement.
We really need to figure out what is wrong with the midrange. It would be good to take it out of circuit and test it alone. It should read 6 ohms on a multimeter for starts if functional. Your quick and dirty soft-dome Audax tweeter replacement was ill-judged. A cone tweeter and attenuator is indicated here for the musical Wharfedale sound. Soft domes are the worst thing that has happened to audio in the last 30 years, IMO.
I mix and match components a lot. Here's a KEF-type acoustic butterworth minus speaker wires:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I have revised my polarity estimate. I get +-+ now. The circuit is a bit rough and ready, so it's hard to judge. 😱
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can I have a solution that will sound better than the current setup, but doesn't require me to start again with the crossover?
I can mod it but cant see the point in dumping the unit totally. I just want something that can beat my av10's in a cinema setting, with occasional music.
the mid measures 5.2-5.3ohms using the meter ive got at work.
I can mod it but cant see the point in dumping the unit totally. I just want something that can beat my av10's in a cinema setting, with occasional music.
the mid measures 5.2-5.3ohms using the meter ive got at work.
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Well, that's good news with the mid. Sounds like it's functional. 🙂
Go ahead and order some regular N.P. electrolytics and reflow all the solder joints. Cheap enough so you might as well have a few lying about. They only last about 20 years really before the wet electrolyte dries out.
Straight swap for the existing capacitors. Replacement tweeters are untried territory, but I'd think those monacor HT22/8 units will work well with some level adjustment. Certainly sound better than soft domes, but do what you like!
Go ahead and order some regular N.P. electrolytics and reflow all the solder joints. Cheap enough so you might as well have a few lying about. They only last about 20 years really before the wet electrolyte dries out.
Straight swap for the existing capacitors. Replacement tweeters are untried territory, but I'd think those monacor HT22/8 units will work well with some level adjustment. Certainly sound better than soft domes, but do what you like!
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