Greetings from New Zealand!
Bought pair of old Dovedales. One has a beige paper midrange that isn't working and the other a more modern woven midrange that is.
I measured the woven midrange unit's impedance at 4ohms. The overall impedance of the fully functional speaker (with the woven midrange) is 6.4ohms. The other speaker with the faulty paper midrange is 6.6ohms.
Questions:
Does anyone know what the nominal impedance is for the midrange cone for one of these old dovedales?
Is the replacement 4ohms right or should it be 6ohm?
If the overall speaker is meant to be 6ohm, are all the speaker's drive units 6ohm? Or do they vary?
I'd like to get 2 matching midrange cones but would like them to have the correct impedance so any guidance would be awesome!
Thanks again.
Bought pair of old Dovedales. One has a beige paper midrange that isn't working and the other a more modern woven midrange that is.
I measured the woven midrange unit's impedance at 4ohms. The overall impedance of the fully functional speaker (with the woven midrange) is 6.4ohms. The other speaker with the faulty paper midrange is 6.6ohms.
Questions:
Does anyone know what the nominal impedance is for the midrange cone for one of these old dovedales?
Is the replacement 4ohms right or should it be 6ohm?
If the overall speaker is meant to be 6ohm, are all the speaker's drive units 6ohm? Or do they vary?
I'd like to get 2 matching midrange cones but would like them to have the correct impedance so any guidance would be awesome!
Thanks again.
Nominal was I think 8R so 5.6 to 6.5 DCR sounds about right.
Finding a pair of replacement drivers that will fit right into the existing XO may be little difficult tho. Is near enough is good enough tho?
Finding a pair of replacement drivers that will fit right into the existing XO may be little difficult tho. Is near enough is good enough tho?
I am happy to buy 2 matching midrange speakers. They don't have to be the originals. Question though: If the full speaker is rated at 6ohms impedance, should these midrange units be 8 ohms, 6ohms or is the 4 ohm woven cone in there correct? Thanks!
As I said If it's a nominal 8R impedance then that is 8R at the XO frequency with luck. So most nominally 8R drivers have a DCR of about 6Ohms which is what most of the them have; in the range from 5.6 to 6.5DCR
For instance the old Vifa P-13 at 5.6DCR is a nominal 8R driver but I don't know enough about the speakers to advise further
You could try either of these with the existing XO and it might work
M13SG-09-08 - VIFA 5" MID-WOOFER SHIELDED | eBay
DS135-8 5" Designer Series Woofer Speaker 8 Ohm - Dayton Audio
It might not work either.
Some pix of the drivers might help Do the working speakers sound OK? If not what problems does the presentation have?
Pix of the crossover might also help
For instance the old Vifa P-13 at 5.6DCR is a nominal 8R driver but I don't know enough about the speakers to advise further
You could try either of these with the existing XO and it might work
M13SG-09-08 - VIFA 5" MID-WOOFER SHIELDED | eBay
DS135-8 5" Designer Series Woofer Speaker 8 Ohm - Dayton Audio
It might not work either.
Some pix of the drivers might help Do the working speakers sound OK? If not what problems does the presentation have?
Pix of the crossover might also help
Thanks Moondog but unfortunately I am not sufficiently technical to decipher your advice. Can I just ask this question - perhaps you could just put a "yes" or "no" beside the 3 options:
The speaker is rated by Wharfedale at 6ohms. Therefore, should the 5" midrange drivers be:
4 ohms Y/N
6 ohms Y/N
or 8 ohms Y/N.
Thank you for your patience.
The speaker is rated by Wharfedale at 6ohms. Therefore, should the 5" midrange drivers be:
4 ohms Y/N
6 ohms Y/N
or 8 ohms Y/N.
Thank you for your patience.
I don't know without seeing the XO or pix of the working midrange driver. Sorry but these are not Yes or No answers and I am no expert. Being in EnZed you are even more restricted in parts availability than we are here in Oz and that won't help
The thing is; to have any chance of working well; the replacements have to be close in spec to the originals
The thing is; to have any chance of working well; the replacements have to be close in spec to the originals
This Dovedale is rated 4-8 ohms! It has a mids trim pot, so makes one wonder how critical does it need to be? http://i1169.photobucket.com/albums/r502/lozring/20170401_143058.jpg
GM
GM
Thanks GM for taking the time to respond. My Dovedales are older and don't have any form of trim pot.
There were 3 or perhaps 4 speakers called the "Dovedale" and it was also available as a kit.
Both the factory and the kit versions offered the L-Pads as an optional extra
Both the factory and the kit versions offered the L-Pads as an optional extra
Oh well, took a shot, so never mind; 🙁 That said plus what's been measured and still unknown, I'd go 4 ohms since it's a lot easier to add resistance to a multi-way system than lower it, i.e. tonally balance it.
GM
GM
Why I asked for pix. As far as I could gather the woofer and tweeter stayed the same or very close through the iterations but the midrange driver changed.
Some drivers were round and some had squared of framed like the KEF B-110
Doing some reading I think that the mid driver must have been quite a strong unit with a wide bandwidth
Fresh in my mind having just read the Biography
Some drivers were round and some had squared of framed like the KEF B-110
Doing some reading I think that the mid driver must have been quite a strong unit with a wide bandwidth
Fresh in my mind having just read the Biography
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