Does anyone have a tinning solution source besides the Allied one? About 10 bucks for 4 oz. is not my idea of a bargain😀....
Mouser Newark and Digikey are of no help.
Mouser Newark and Digikey are of no help.
I think he means for tinning PCBs.
I use plumbers flux:
smear a VERY thin layer on with a finger and use regular rosin core solder to 'tin' the board. Clean off the plumbers flux immediately.
Fast and easy. The solder layer does an excellent job of protecting the copper from oxidization.
I use plumbers flux:
smear a VERY thin layer on with a finger and use regular rosin core solder to 'tin' the board. Clean off the plumbers flux immediately.
Fast and easy. The solder layer does an excellent job of protecting the copper from oxidization.
Thanks John😉
Now, just WHAT do you use to remove the FLUX...?😕
My container says "Do not touch the Flux"
Flush with water... Immediately. 🙄
Now, just WHAT do you use to remove the FLUX...?😕
My container says "Do not touch the Flux"
Flush with water... Immediately. 🙄
Jeans...🙂
Remove the flux from my finger? I wash my hands after I'm finished. Having done more than my fair share of plumbing, I can tell you that what you'll get on you to do 1000 PCBs will not even come close the exposure from plumbing one bathroom with copper.
The one I use (in the pic above) is actually a lot milder than some of the older stuff. It does contain zinc, so you'll need to get it off the board (or it can cause bridges between traces - I had this happen) and that is as easy as wiping it thoroughly with a dry cloth or paper towel.
You can do it without the flux, it just won't be as fast or as smooth. There is also electrical flux that may not be as corrosive, but costs a fortune.
For general soldering, I use a flux pen from MG:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Good stuff and around $9. It's an option but since it evaporates, you'll need to do the board in sections - apply flux, tin, apply flux, tin...
Whilst you're all talking fluxes, have any of you seen or even used the rosin /resin that is often the core in cored solder?
Years ago, I was given several lumps of this rosin that was also used in mass production tinning of components. This was clear, very pale yellow, had a faint aromatic odour and was quite brittle. It was used by dissolving in denatured alcohol and applied by spray, dip or brush. For tinning PCBs, it was fine and probably safest, considering the risks of poor clean-up with traditional zinc chloride fluxes. However, I never did discover what it actually was or the source.
For tinning PCBs coated with this flux, I used a very small solder pot and brushed the solder on with a bristle brush. This method and many powered variations of it, were quite common before automated systems and plating replaced all the handwork of the early years of PCB manufacture.
The point is that this stuff, like most industrial aids, was cheap. If it cost more than 1 cent per board it would have been too expensive. DIYs and techs are targeted to be fleeced here, in a market that has always endured extreme "value adding" even to marketing compressed air as a expensive commodity.
If anyone has experience or knowledge of a source of this rosin, we could all benefit, I think.
Years ago, I was given several lumps of this rosin that was also used in mass production tinning of components. This was clear, very pale yellow, had a faint aromatic odour and was quite brittle. It was used by dissolving in denatured alcohol and applied by spray, dip or brush. For tinning PCBs, it was fine and probably safest, considering the risks of poor clean-up with traditional zinc chloride fluxes. However, I never did discover what it actually was or the source.
For tinning PCBs coated with this flux, I used a very small solder pot and brushed the solder on with a bristle brush. This method and many powered variations of it, were quite common before automated systems and plating replaced all the handwork of the early years of PCB manufacture.
The point is that this stuff, like most industrial aids, was cheap. If it cost more than 1 cent per board it would have been too expensive. DIYs and techs are targeted to be fleeced here, in a market that has always endured extreme "value adding" even to marketing compressed air as a expensive commodity.
If anyone has experience or knowledge of a source of this rosin, we could all benefit, I think.
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what the flux!
CG liquid solder flux GC Liquid Solder Flux (2 oz..) : 10-4202
Frys carries it, not sure if its in yer area.
really a little goes a long way! you could prolly stretch it out by mixing it with a little 100% denatured alcohol and applying it with an acid brush. cleaning the copper 1st with some polishing goes a long way too.
CG liquid solder flux GC Liquid Solder Flux (2 oz..) : 10-4202
Frys carries it, not sure if its in yer area.
really a little goes a long way! you could prolly stretch it out by mixing it with a little 100% denatured alcohol and applying it with an acid brush. cleaning the copper 1st with some polishing goes a long way too.
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oops just noticed the OP was a while back. hehe
Hi Ian
I think it's related to economies of scale, like all hobbies there are others much worse for the fleecing! like artist's supplies.
Good thing liquid flux keeps well and last a long time for most of us.
in the verry rare occasion i make a pcb i do tin it my self too.
the cheapooo solution i found was simple.
hydrochloric acid (20% one, most stores sale this) is one of the components needed.
The other one is zinc.
galvanized plate gutter (not sure about how you english peeps call it)
like those are perfect for the job.
Now, get a glass bottle, put the acid in it. But the whole bottle into a water bath, to make sure it remains cool.
Do not do this in your home, make sure you are outside.
Cut small pieces of the "gutter" and put it in the bottle of acid.
Make sure you wear gloves, glasses, whatever safety equipment you got.
Acid is acid.
The reaction will form heat, and bubbles in the solution.
A lot of both of them.
do not seal the bottle, as it may explode, or even if not when you would open it up it would be a nasty surprise.
The reaction lasts untill there are bubbles formed in the solution, and lasts for hours.
Once no bubbling occurs, the solution is ready to be sealed.
I give my pcb-s a bath in this solution, approx 5-10 secunds.
Then I can just use my soldering iron to tin the board.
I made this solution for one reason. The price stores ask here for a small 200 ml solution is around 5 times more than 1 liter of acid.
Beware, make sure even if you do try this, that while the solution forms bubbles, the gasses exiting the solution are poison.
Do not try to make 1 liter solution at first attempt.
Do not fill your glass bottle more than half way with the acid.
Leave the solution outside, out of reach by anyone/anything while the reaction is not finished, and keep an eye on it from a safe distance.
At first try, i would advise to not make more than 1-200 ml of the solution, even that will take a long time to use up.
And i take no responseability if you manage to damage your self in the process.
the cheapooo solution i found was simple.
hydrochloric acid (20% one, most stores sale this) is one of the components needed.
The other one is zinc.
galvanized plate gutter (not sure about how you english peeps call it)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
like those are perfect for the job.
Now, get a glass bottle, put the acid in it. But the whole bottle into a water bath, to make sure it remains cool.
Do not do this in your home, make sure you are outside.
Cut small pieces of the "gutter" and put it in the bottle of acid.
Make sure you wear gloves, glasses, whatever safety equipment you got.
Acid is acid.
The reaction will form heat, and bubbles in the solution.
A lot of both of them.
do not seal the bottle, as it may explode, or even if not when you would open it up it would be a nasty surprise.
The reaction lasts untill there are bubbles formed in the solution, and lasts for hours.
Once no bubbling occurs, the solution is ready to be sealed.
I give my pcb-s a bath in this solution, approx 5-10 secunds.
Then I can just use my soldering iron to tin the board.
I made this solution for one reason. The price stores ask here for a small 200 ml solution is around 5 times more than 1 liter of acid.
Beware, make sure even if you do try this, that while the solution forms bubbles, the gasses exiting the solution are poison.
Do not try to make 1 liter solution at first attempt.
Do not fill your glass bottle more than half way with the acid.
Leave the solution outside, out of reach by anyone/anything while the reaction is not finished, and keep an eye on it from a safe distance.
At first try, i would advise to not make more than 1-200 ml of the solution, even that will take a long time to use up.
And i take no responseability if you manage to damage your self in the process.
Yikes
The acid is used for cleaning/etching the PCB copper right. Acid core rosin in olden time plumbing solder has the same purpose in a single step. what's the zinc doing?
The acid is used for cleaning/etching the PCB copper right. Acid core rosin in olden time plumbing solder has the same purpose in a single step. what's the zinc doing?
Acid core flux is rosin with zinc chloride powder blended in. This is quite acidic, hence the name. Plumber's paste flux is similar.
The solution of liquid flux, as Arty has made, is a time honoured way of making zinc chloride solution without having to stock the salt or acidify it to boost fluxing activity. Its called "Killed Spirits" for those with a sense of the macabre. You can still buy zinc granules if you don't have a collection of galvanized iron.(that's what Oz and UK guys may call it) Don't try using the more recent "zincalume" treated steel, I hear it's not so good.
Simplified, all these "acid" fluxes work by exchanging a little copper on the metal surface for the Zinc in solution or rosin, thus providing a chemically clean and active surface for Solder to flow and bond to. It needs some acidity to do this but hydrochloric acid is a tad noxious, yet zinc chloride is quite acidic still, has a buffering effect that maintains consistency and works just fine.
The zinc and copper will alloy with the solder and the displaced chlorine will vaporise with the water as HCl in the soldering heat. (mind breathing the gas from this; some are a bit sensitive to an olefactory burnout!)
As long as the PCB is only treated to these cocktails before stuffing and is washed and dried fully, there should be no problems on single sided boards.
I've seen a few people use industrial strength fluxes to solder a delicate part because it was easier than buying electronics solder but the gas released when fluxing usually resulted in corrosion beginning on bright or passivated metal surfaces, getting into plated-through areas etc.
Commercial operators and users of multi-layer boards would be crazy to go anywhere near a PCB with this stuff IMO. Actually, we should ask that nobody try this stuff at home or indoors etc. However, we're DIY guys so we do what works! 😀
BTW, thanks DevilMKD ..Colofonium, eh? 🙂
Hi Infinia, 'just hope it made sense. Actually, the GL liquid flux you posted is surely Colofonium in alcohol, according to Wikipedia. You Californians have a couple of native pine species said to be good for flux. Here we have just a few of your Monterey Pines (Pinus Radiata) in plantations and as ornamentals. They bleed rosin, so I'm just gonna have to "procure" some and try it. How about "Poor Oz man's soldering flux"? (with apologies to Zen Mod) 😀.
i think i have left enough warnings on this process.
Actualy i usualy take my fresh orn pcb, slam it nto the solution for approx 5-10 secunds, then immidatly i cover everything with fresh and nice solder.
The surface is clean as it can get.
then comes the hole drilling job.
I found it as an advantage that i can cover the surface with a nice layer, this gives a bit more current carry ability for example. and the end product is a surface that is equaly coated with the solder.
Needles to say, read my warnings.
And do not under any circuimstance use over 25% acid. the instant heat generation of the thing will surprise you.
As far as i have tested (like 5 years now or so since i made a big jug of it) it keeps working perfectly. Cheap, effective, DIY.
Actualy i usualy take my fresh orn pcb, slam it nto the solution for approx 5-10 secunds, then immidatly i cover everything with fresh and nice solder.
The surface is clean as it can get.
then comes the hole drilling job.
I found it as an advantage that i can cover the surface with a nice layer, this gives a bit more current carry ability for example. and the end product is a surface that is equaly coated with the solder.
Needles to say, read my warnings.
And do not under any circuimstance use over 25% acid. the instant heat generation of the thing will surprise you.
As far as i have tested (like 5 years now or so since i made a big jug of it) it keeps working perfectly. Cheap, effective, DIY.
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