Maybe that Tech is the one who snapped the Neo original speakers and substituted the cheapies. 😉
I can not imagine a Company putting so much effort and $$$ into a killer expensive product and then using 5W RMS speakers with a 15W RMS amp.
No way.
Out of interest, Lemwise, do the cones of the Creatives match the light grey colour of the speakers shown in your link?
I stand corrected.
Speakers from Creative at least don't have that exotic magnet design, I think. So maybe replaced, but why?
And those are IP65 level?
New project for JMF... work radio?
Or a Bluetooth stream from a spare cell phone, that will give the internet linkage and hands free.
A converted marine radio housing to get IP65, perhaps.
Speakers from Creative at least don't have that exotic magnet design, I think. So maybe replaced, but why?
And those are IP65 level?
New project for JMF... work radio?
Or a Bluetooth stream from a spare cell phone, that will give the internet linkage and hands free.
A converted marine radio housing to get IP65, perhaps.
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The colour does indeed match. And why exactly would a PerfectPro tech lie about them using Creative speakers? One thing you guys have to understand is PerfectPro isn't always the most truthful. They never actually mention the power rating of the amp in the description, just "2 strong 15-watt Neodymium speakers" and 15 watts is exactly the maximum power handling of the Creative JS78-122 speakers.
Btw, I made a post about this topic on a Dutch forum. One of the people in that thread also has the Audisse Shokunin and he opened it up. It has exactly the same Creative JS78-122 speakers in it. So despite what people believe, that's exactly what they did, they put two cheap 5W RMS speakers in it. And PerfectPro uses the same speakers in this radio as well: https://www.perfectpro.eu/product/audisse/
Thanks, Lemwise.
The specs in your link do say 2 x 15W amplifier, but do not mention RMS power or at what distortion level the 15W is achievable. For all we know, 15W could be the 'music power' which can be up to three times greater than the RMS power.
In that case, the Creatives would have been deemed adequate for the job as the power they actually have to handle at normal listening levels is likely to remain within their limits.
Good move in replacing them with the Daytons from both sound quality and power handling points of view.
Note: I made a small edit.
The specs in your link do say 2 x 15W amplifier, but do not mention RMS power or at what distortion level the 15W is achievable. For all we know, 15W could be the 'music power' which can be up to three times greater than the RMS power.
In that case, the Creatives would have been deemed adequate for the job as the power they actually have to handle at normal listening levels is likely to remain within their limits.
Good move in replacing them with the Daytons from both sound quality and power handling points of view.
Note: I made a small edit.
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Actually, the power rating of the amplifier isn't mentioned in any documentation. That 2x 15 watts is the peak power handling of the Creative speakers. I've tested how much they can handle and with the volume at 30-32 (it goes to 40) they started to struggle. There was a fair bit of distortion and crackling noises coming from them. With the Daytons in the radio I can crank it up to 40 and they don't even break a sweat.
The specs in your link say "2 x 15 Watt output" above "D Class, high efficiency amplifier".
A speaker is described by an input power rating whereas an output power rating refers to an amplifier.
Anyhow, I think we can agree that the 15 W figure is pretty meaningless without qualification.
A speaker is described by an input power rating whereas an output power rating refers to an amplifier.
Anyhow, I think we can agree that the 15 W figure is pretty meaningless without qualification.
You are absolutely right. I do think those 2x 15 watts are the peak power output because the Creative speakers are 5W RMS. It wouldn't make sense to pair them with a 2x 15 watt continuous amp, right?
I have no idea. But I have to open the radio one more time anyway to solder the wires so I'll take a look.
At that time, see how much supply voltage, as percentage of max. possible on the chip.
That will give you some idea of the design limits used by the makers.
The sound sample was impressive, on my stereo...
That will give you some idea of the design limits used by the makers.
The sound sample was impressive, on my stereo...
So the only way to figure out the amp is by dismantling a lot of stuff because only the backside of the amp is visible with other parts in front of it. I don't feel comfortable doing that. And honestly, I don't care that much because I'm very happy with the sound now and that's all that counts.
I have about 35 hours of play time now on the Daytons and I've noticed a further improvement in the bass. It's getting tighter and more defined. It's not really getting lower though but I'm happy with it. I don't feel a need for a bass port or passive radiator. The biggest difference is the mid and high range. There's zero distortion and it's all very smooth which wasn't the case with the original Creative speakers. Female vocals would often sound harsh like the speakers had reached their limits. The one thing I just can't figure out is why PerfectPro put those cheap Creative speakers in a radio they marketed as a premium job site radio. Surely they could've made a nice bulk deal with a manufacturer like Dayton without making the radio more expensive.
I actually wanted to buy another one for home use but sadly PerfectPro has ditched WLAN on the newest update of the radio. No internet radio=no go.
I actually wanted to buy another one for home use but sadly PerfectPro has ditched WLAN on the newest update of the radio. No internet radio=no go.
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You can make one with a Bluetooth receiver, and use a streaming device such as a cell phone to send sound to it.
Or hack an old phone, then you have a touch screen controlled radio.
My photo above may give you some ideas.
IP 65 is not needed at home, I think.
Or hack an old phone, then you have a touch screen controlled radio.
My photo above may give you some ideas.
IP 65 is not needed at home, I think.
An empty plastic enclosure could have various standing waves in the kilohertz region which would sound bad; I was lazy about stuffing some cabinets once (plywood, with parallel sides, though) and the resonances were definitely audible even in my car. If you don't add stuffing, any driver will perform poorly.
I'll bet if you put the original speakers into solid little cabinets with ample stuffing (pillow stuffing from a fabric store... or a cheap pillow), they'll sound much better.
I'll bet if you put the original speakers into solid little cabinets with ample stuffing (pillow stuffing from a fabric store... or a cheap pillow), they'll sound much better.
Now that the Daytons have had ample time to break in the sound is very satisfactory but I want to see if adding damping will help it along even further. There's not much space inside the radio with how the electronics are mounted, the amplifier board is mounted vertically behind the speakers, like how you would mount a plate amp on the back of a speaker. This obviously limits what I can do. However, we have self adhesive cell foam band at work which is just 10mm thick. I could add this around the speakers and a few other spots. Would this type of material be any good at damping standing waves?
Take a chance, stick it to a similar surface, and take it off after a couple of days.
If it does not work out well, you may need to remove it. So this experiment is suggested.
Also see it does not obstruct vents.
If it does not work out well, you may need to remove it. So this experiment is suggested.
Also see it does not obstruct vents.
To prevent / reduce internal cabinet reflections from emerging out through the speaker cones, creating colouration, a thick wad of felt, say (20 - 25) mm, may be attached to the rear cabinet wall, behind the drivers.
This should be augmented by foam damping on the other interior cabinet walls of say (10 - 16) mm thickness.
More information about damping here: https://www.qtasystems.co.uk/articles/how-to-damping.htm