Hi - I have been so impressed with the knowledge shared in the diyAudio forums, thanks to everyone for their contributions!
Like many other newbies, I am trying to sort out my first full range system, and wanted see if I am on the right track (primarily regarding my choice of enclosure). My goal for the system is to get a good flavor for what a high efficiency, simple single driver system is like. This is what I am planning:
Driver: FE206En (purchased)
Amp: F2J Clone (parts purchased)
Preamp: Salas DCB1 (parts purchased)
Source: Old Sony CD Changer, Old Technics Turntable
Enclosure Options:
1) Woden Designs Vulcan (preferred if it works in my room)
2) Kirishima
3) Dallas II
The room is 31' x 14' (9.4m x 4.3m) with a 7'-6" ceiling height (2.3m). The speakers would be placed against one of the long walls and the listening chair is positioned against the other long wall.
Will a fire place between the speakers that extends 6" out of the wall at the top and 15" at the bottom cause a problem with the boundary loading of the rear horns on the Vulcan? The picture below shows a full size cardboard mock-up of the Vulcan next to the fire place.
Thanks so much!
Like many other newbies, I am trying to sort out my first full range system, and wanted see if I am on the right track (primarily regarding my choice of enclosure). My goal for the system is to get a good flavor for what a high efficiency, simple single driver system is like. This is what I am planning:
Driver: FE206En (purchased)
Amp: F2J Clone (parts purchased)
Preamp: Salas DCB1 (parts purchased)
Source: Old Sony CD Changer, Old Technics Turntable
Enclosure Options:
1) Woden Designs Vulcan (preferred if it works in my room)
2) Kirishima
3) Dallas II
The room is 31' x 14' (9.4m x 4.3m) with a 7'-6" ceiling height (2.3m). The speakers would be placed against one of the long walls and the listening chair is positioned against the other long wall.
Will a fire place between the speakers that extends 6" out of the wall at the top and 15" at the bottom cause a problem with the boundary loading of the rear horns on the Vulcan? The picture below shows a full size cardboard mock-up of the Vulcan next to the fire place.
Thanks so much!
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Very nice planning with the cardboard mockup! I think this is one of the best ways to go with a full range driver in a large room. The fireplace along with all of the other unique things in your room are what will make your listening experience different from everyone else's. I don't think the fireplace will be a problem.
My money would be on the Vulcan to kick some serious azz in this system.
Use good quality Baltic birch plywood, not MDF, if for no other reason than that six months of chiropracty to recover from building and moving the damned things would be more costly than the difference in material
That, and the ply would sound better
Use good quality Baltic birch plywood, not MDF, if for no other reason than that six months of chiropracty to recover from building and moving the damned things would be more costly than the difference in material
That, and the ply would sound better
Thanks for the input, I just sent an email to Scott at Woden Designs to purchase a copy of the Vulcan plans.
I would also suggest the Vulcan. Because of the enclosure design they got the option for a different driver, to modify the back chamber in volume and damping aswell as to change the horn damping. Both is not possible neither for the Krishma nor the Dallas II (which got too much really unnecessary angle cuts and unused volume without providing any advantages).
large room
large volume of the room, and Fostex with o,8 mm stroke, indirect horn, for me not the best solution.
i would prefer a sub sat solution like my HORN Sat+ 2 ALPHORN, direkt and the bass you can take to your taste and room + distanz, the fostex can go active 12 dB~120 Hz, much more SPL as solo.
Or my RDH20 with a FR 8" in front with more than 2mm stroke, Seas RCZ 22, TB 1772 etc.
back invers pol changed Monacor SPH210. near the wall much better soundstage by the back driver, impedanz for Tube amps better than a single driver solution.
large volume of the room, and Fostex with o,8 mm stroke, indirect horn, for me not the best solution.
i would prefer a sub sat solution like my HORN Sat+ 2 ALPHORN, direkt and the bass you can take to your taste and room + distanz, the fostex can go active 12 dB~120 Hz, much more SPL as solo.
Or my RDH20 with a FR 8" in front with more than 2mm stroke, Seas RCZ 22, TB 1772 etc.
back invers pol changed Monacor SPH210. near the wall much better soundstage by the back driver, impedanz for Tube amps better than a single driver solution.
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Firstly, he'll be using a F2J Clone. That makes it 5W and the horn further more greatly reduces the excursion, I doubt he'll ever have problems there. Secondly - and you should really know that - the bass radiates 360°, even with a that large mouth surface, it doesn't matter if it's indirect or not.
He does not use a tube amp. Well, did you read his post at all? Or did you but don't care because you need another post about how much better your horns are?
hello,
1. make a simulation and look the movement at 2,83V,
2. i never get more than 2 w out of a Fostex
3 did you see the impedanz ?
4 if it is true you think i don´t have to wrote for what?
5 it is your new trump rule and this with a german flag.
wenn du ein persönliches Problem hast ruf mich mal an.
1. make a simulation and look the movement at 2,83V,
2. i never get more than 2 w out of a Fostex
3 did you see the impedanz ?
4 if it is true you think i don´t have to wrote for what?
5 it is your new trump rule and this with a german flag.
wenn du ein persönliches Problem hast ruf mich mal an.
Look above.
"If I can't do it, nobody can"? 🙄
Did you know i.e. dynacord used Fostex in actual PA speakers? You're probably doing something wrong then.
Yes. Did you see what type of amp the F2J is? Hint: It's a current source amplifier.
Yes. Because I don't know what you know. But with your (proclaimed?) knowledge you should know that. And that you didn't write it means either you don't know it or you chose to ignore it to drag down others projects or because of who-knows-other-reasons, none of which could be any positive.
I cannot imagine anything you may in good conscience write with one nationality you may not with another. That's racist.
Besides that, you don't know anything about my political or personal preferences or rules at all. Don't tell me I've got rule xy! And no, having a German flag beside the user names does not make them automatically right wing. That's a sign for others that there might be translation issues or item availability and prices may change quite a bit.
So far I didn't have a problem with you personally. Now though - since you've shown a lot of prejudice in just that one reply - I do.
Bis jetzt hatte ich kein persönliches Problem mit Dir. Jetzt allerdings - nachdem Du so viele Vorurteile in nur einer einzigen Antwort gezeigt hast - durchaus.
100dB and within the usable range (>35Hz) still plenty of headroom. I'd say that's green lights!
Scottmoose, thanks for posting the simulated frequency response curve - I am probably asking a dumb question, but what causes the dips in the response at ~170 and ~230 Hz?
That are either reflections within the horn or cancellations caused from the phase differences of the horn and the driver. You can even it out with placing damping material at different places within the horn or the back chamber but before doing that, you'd have to measure/listen if it's really the case. Most horn simulations look worse at first.
thanks, for the simulation, where i see the membran movement, please show us,
my tests show me by a solution with 1mm stroke you will not get enough bass by an indirect horn by such a large room.
i share my knowledge nothing more, sorry for my own opinion.
my tests show me by a solution with 1mm stroke you will not get enough bass by an indirect horn by such a large room.
i share my knowledge nothing more, sorry for my own opinion.
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thanks, i am blind, sorry good luck, i can´t get it in AJ horn, may be a real measurement in that room will help.
Received the drawings today! Thanks for the quick turnaround Scott! I am working up some details for the base supports (I have children so wide, solid supports are a must). If I can execute the construction well, I think these are going to be a really nice looking set of speakers.🙂
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csample,
Maybe also good to plan a set of grills? Inquisitive minds might enjoy poking at cones... 🙂
Yes, they should turn out impressive. Keep us posted on the progress.
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Those are cancelations from undesirable pipe harmonics. In practise they are not as large as the simukation predicts, partly becaise each of the bends act as a low pass filter.
dave