Here is SoundStage/Doug Schneiders review (a detailed review) from 2003, VR-1’s crossover has "stacked first-order circuits configured to enable fourth-order acoustic slopes."
The crossover point is about 2.5kHz.
https://www.soundstagenetwork.com/revequip/vonschweikert_vr1.htm
vr 1 competed with the Revel M20 which cost more than twice as much.
Caps and coils are also real expensive these day´s, so i think its better/ more value to buy a "better" used speaker insteed. ("upgrade")
The crossover point is about 2.5kHz.
https://www.soundstagenetwork.com/revequip/vonschweikert_vr1.htm
vr 1 competed with the Revel M20 which cost more than twice as much.
Caps and coils are also real expensive these day´s, so i think its better/ more value to buy a "better" used speaker insteed. ("upgrade")
Plastic is not good for shopping bags. It is a good material to work with in speaker drivers.
I was disappointed when i heard that an incoming driver had a (cheaper) Al alloy basket instead of one of their really good plastic baskets. Of course, just like much of everything, quality can range across the spectrum.
dave
Valid points all. Though decent caps are only about 20 to 30 bucks each. Doesn’t seem expensive for a pair.
any speaker recommendations?
The only stipulation is it must be bookshelf only. And not Sonus Faber money. Amp is integrated, plenty of power, one of the GaN types.
any speaker recommendations?
The only stipulation is it must be bookshelf only. And not Sonus Faber money. Amp is integrated, plenty of power, one of the GaN types.
I don’t like buying speakers or any gear new. Would rather go second hand, well looked after. Better value. Which makes some Sonus Fabers a possibility I guess. I listen to a wide range of music but like bass a lot ( and have a sub ).
Do you have a workshop / garage and some basic tools? Have you considered a kit? How important are aesthetics?
In other words how about DIY?
made subs before. But my woodwork skills are rubbish. Kits from the USA are expensive cos of freight. Essentially you are paying twice for the kit.
will post image of VR1 xover when I can.
looked all over the web for a schematics and/ or values but could not seem to find them so will just desolder caps and then order.
will post image of VR1 xover when I can.
looked all over the web for a schematics and/ or values but could not seem to find them so will just desolder caps and then order.
And, by the by. I have a query because of a change in circumstances (smaller room, speakers must go on a bench theatre runs along the front wall).
Can you turn floorstanders into bookshelf speakers, let’s say two ways for the sake of simplicity?
Aside from the cuts which should be simple enough, and inserting a base, what else is required?
Can you turn floorstanders into bookshelf speakers, let’s say two ways for the sake of simplicity?
Aside from the cuts which should be simple enough, and inserting a base, what else is required?
Before you spend a lot of money on capacitors, you may want to review this:
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...tor-upgrade-in-crossover-is-it-audible.12287/
If you find any two capacitors are signficantly (> 10%?) different in value between the pairs of speakers, there may be some benefit in order new pairs so that the speakers are more evenly balanced in their response. But I wouldn't go overboard spending dozens of dollars on single capacitors. I think the money may get better value on your next speaker upgrade.
In terms of kits - I wouldn't order the knock down / flat pack MDF from overseas (as you say expensive). If you don't own a track or table saw, then maybe paying a local woodworker to precision cut the required panels (from Bunnings or Mitre10) would be better. then all you need is PVA and clamps for the glue up.
My woodworking skills aren't that great, but with practice, I make less mistakes (I won't say my skills are any better though 😀)
https://www.audiosciencereview.com/...tor-upgrade-in-crossover-is-it-audible.12287/
If you find any two capacitors are signficantly (> 10%?) different in value between the pairs of speakers, there may be some benefit in order new pairs so that the speakers are more evenly balanced in their response. But I wouldn't go overboard spending dozens of dollars on single capacitors. I think the money may get better value on your next speaker upgrade.
In terms of kits - I wouldn't order the knock down / flat pack MDF from overseas (as you say expensive). If you don't own a track or table saw, then maybe paying a local woodworker to precision cut the required panels (from Bunnings or Mitre10) would be better. then all you need is PVA and clamps for the glue up.
My woodworking skills aren't that great, but with practice, I make less mistakes (I won't say my skills are any better though 😀)
Funny that his wife could hear clear differences between the caps from another room but scope diffs were negligible.
i have no scope and my hearing isn’t great - too much motorcycle riding sans earplugs as a youth - but cap diffs are clear as day to me. And I’m only using relatively cheap Mundorfs - can’t recall price but roughly 6 to 10 bucks a pop.
I’ve done this with two diff speaker pairs and both sounded clearer with more distinct imaging. Didn’t touch the resistors or inductors.
i have no scope and my hearing isn’t great - too much motorcycle riding sans earplugs as a youth - but cap diffs are clear as day to me. And I’m only using relatively cheap Mundorfs - can’t recall price but roughly 6 to 10 bucks a pop.
I’ve done this with two diff speaker pairs and both sounded clearer with more distinct imaging. Didn’t touch the resistors or inductors.
Looks like a weird way to obtain 4th order acoustic slopes. Usually a second or third order dedicated, woofer tailored(!) electric lowpass, occasionally complemented with an LCR notch (for hard cones) is enough to achieve a 4th order acoustic LP with a 6-8" midwoofer, as anyone who has done proper simming and subsequent building and measurering can attest.
Maybe it's just your overall knowledge, talent & experience, which is not at a high enough level in total.
Rarely have experts on the subject ever understood the geniuses. (also applies to the atomic bomb & other things)
No offence Boden!
Agree
in my experience the capacitor change is about being able to match woofer/midrange, midrange/tweeter different in SPL.
So the sound can change, but only in "balance" not in quality
Anecdotal only so it means nothing.
But it won't stop me from believing what I hear pre- and post-cap change.
But it won't stop me from believing what I hear pre- and post-cap change.
Okey, spend some $$ on the xovers and come back to me and tell if it was a good investment 👍
Already have on my current speakers, just changed the bennic 4.7uf for mundorf MCap Evo, with a small bypass cap to make up the difference. And yes, changes were audibly obvious, mainly with more believable imaging.
Same with the inceiling Niles speakers, again just a cap change, this time with Sonicaps and small bypass caps. It's harder to get an exact bead on the changes with the ceiling speakers because they're not as in your face but I felt imaging was better, with more body if you like.
Same with the inceiling Niles speakers, again just a cap change, this time with Sonicaps and small bypass caps. It's harder to get an exact bead on the changes with the ceiling speakers because they're not as in your face but I felt imaging was better, with more body if you like.