Okay, done. Next question. The binding posts in the parts list are un-imsulated. As the case I'm using is aluminum, wouldn't that short the output signals to the case, and thus together? Don't I need insulated bindng posts?I would use at least a 16 volt part there. There is a possibility of a dc offset in the device feeding your volume control, you need a large safety margin.
Okay, done. Next question. The binding posts in the parts list are un-imsulated. As the case I'm using is aluminum, wouldn't that short the output signals to the case, and thus together? Don't I need insulated bindng posts?
Absolutely.
Like THESE or better.
My experience with smartphones is similar, though I understand there are now a few "audiophile" smartphones on the market - an alleged example is the LG V30 and V50 - I would be interested to hear these.
Take a look here, I own the LG V30 and connected to my TPA3251 with some Burson Audio AOP = killer combo ! 😀
The LG V30 is an awesome Audiophile engine, I could not get better than this as streaming device.
[Best Android audiophile phone] HTC 10 or LG G7 ou LV30...
I think I'll put it together before I start adding more components.Take a look here, I own the LG V30 and connected to my TPA3251 with some Burson Audio AOP = killer combo ! 😀
The LG V30 is an awesome Audiophile engine, I could not get better than this as streaming device.
[Best Android audiophile phone] HTC 10 or LG G7 ou LV30...
Alright, I got it together, and it sounds pretty damn good!
Douglas, I'd like to thank you for taking the time to assist me with my beginner questions.Your LED/SoftOff circuit is working perfectly. I never would have known that repeated on/off cycles would damage the power supply.
So, that brings me to my next set of questions.
I'd like to add an input selector. I've been searching quite a bit and I see 3 options:
a) Rotary switch. Make before break seems to be the favorite.
b) Custom relay setup with mercury wetted reed switches blah blah.
c) a Relay based prebuilt board from ebay such as this.
Any thoughts?
Next, I'd like to add some tone control. My first thought is again ebay.
The remotely mounted pots make sense to me. I'd probably bypass the volume pot in favor of the ALPS pot I've currently got installed.
So, are these Ebay components worth the powder to blow them to hell?
Douglas, I'd like to thank you for taking the time to assist me with my beginner questions.Your LED/SoftOff circuit is working perfectly. I never would have known that repeated on/off cycles would damage the power supply.
So, that brings me to my next set of questions.
I'd like to add an input selector. I've been searching quite a bit and I see 3 options:
a) Rotary switch. Make before break seems to be the favorite.
b) Custom relay setup with mercury wetted reed switches blah blah.
c) a Relay based prebuilt board from ebay such as this.
Any thoughts?
Next, I'd like to add some tone control. My first thought is again ebay.
The remotely mounted pots make sense to me. I'd probably bypass the volume pot in favor of the ALPS pot I've currently got installed.
So, are these Ebay components worth the powder to blow them to hell?
Alright, I got it together, and it sounds pretty damn good!
I guess you are talking about the LG V30 ?
No I mean I assembled all my components into my chassis and it produces music. Those Burson op-amps look cool, I'm scared about replacing those surface mount op-amps.I guess you are talking about the LG V30 ?
As for the phone, I'm pretty happy with my OnePlus+6. I'm actually probably going to use a Bose Wireless sound link adapter as my streaming source.
No I mean I assembled all my components into my chassis and it produces music. Those Burson op-amps look cool, I'm scared about replacing those surface mount op-amps.
As for the phone, I'm pretty happy with my OnePlus+6. I'm actually probably going to use a Bose Wireless sound link adapter as my streaming source.
OK I got i )
The OP Amps are really easy to replace especially in DIP8 socket checkout
TPA3251d2
y Hello everyone! I got this amp working without the volume control, just using sources with volume control, but now I got a turntable so I need to actually finish it!
I ended up with a 100k pot (couldn't find a 10k ALPS at the time), wired as discussed earlier, a 22uf cap on both sides with the negatives attached to the pot. Now I have no bass! I'm not sure if it's this layout, the 100k pot (Internet searches say a that either a 10k or 100k will rob bass, use the other).
Or is this probably just a fake pot? I got it from a US shipper on eBay, not digikey/mouser/parts-express.
I ended up with a 100k pot (couldn't find a 10k ALPS at the time), wired as discussed earlier, a 22uf cap on both sides with the negatives attached to the pot. Now I have no bass! I'm not sure if it's this layout, the 100k pot (Internet searches say a that either a 10k or 100k will rob bass, use the other).
Or is this probably just a fake pot? I got it from a US shipper on eBay, not digikey/mouser/parts-express.
Well.... Damn. Not sure what happened, but now the board illuminates the fault light when powered up, even with everything disconnected. I killed it somehow...... I'll try it again this afternoon, maybe it'll be okay after the caps discharge.
- Home
- Amplifiers
- Class D
- Volume control for TPA3251 based amp.