Volt drivers in 3 way system, help needed

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Thank you Inductor

I do stain all the wood with one color a bit lighter or darker than the brown face plate. Probably lighter, Mahogany or so
Remember the side all the enclosure all wood.
I'll use spike between the woofer and mid woofer. That way I can adjust the angle. I think I glue the tweeter enclosure with the mids. I don't think there is a need for spike between the tweeter and mid enclosure.
Thanks one more time.
Greetings Gabor
I would use rubber feet instead of spikes on top of the wood enclosure...
 
Hello Inductor
Yes you right until I'll do all test the buttom of the woofer will be only screwed not glued.
I'll go with that round wood piece under the went tube to match the woofer round wood.
Just 2cm bigger than in that way it will be nice and matched the woofer to have more wood at the front.
I have very nice small brass spike I want to use those. with that adjust the mids and tweeter angle.
Only very soft rubber would be good, hard to find. I will see what I'll get.

Greetings Gabor
 
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Hello

I think one important think here to have hard membrane suspension.
That is why it has low Xmax even do 150W continuous 300W at music power.
I use Visaton AL130 7 years and never had these problem, I chose the Visaton among drivers like Scan Speak Revelator, Audax, Peerles, Kef what many famous English speaker builder used in the past.
If I touch the membrane now is death silent .
I'll see in the enclosure. Do not forget many famous speaker use aluminium cone driver.
Like Nautilus
nautilus speakers - Google Search
Very important the membrane to get thick anodise surface both side.
That give a great dumping on the surface.
Al do the Visaton has poly dust cover these aluminum I hope I do not have these problem what you wrote.
Can you share it with me which Seas U use please? Some of them use Magnesium cone.
Thank you
Greetings Gabor
 
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Hello

I think these way the front will be more acceptable.
Of course I use some black material under the woofer to cover up the screw heads.
Also I have to send done nice both ring before I glue to the front.
What do you think?
Al 3 driver will has some metallic color and black also. The Alcone has aluminium membrane basket black, the Gorlich has sandwich membrane but aluminium foil at the front basket black , I will spay the tweeter face plate same color the dome black.
I have to change the Morel diaphragm any way. I have a pair new diaphragm.

Greetings Gabor🙂
 

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Hello

I think these way the front will be more acceptable.
Of course I use some black material under the woofer to cover up the screw heads.
Also I have to send done nice both ring before I glue to the front.
What do you think?
Al 3 driver will has some metallic color and black also. The Alcone has aluminium membrane basket black, the Gorlich has sandwich membrane but aluminium foil at the front basket black , I will spay the tweeter face plate same color the dome black.
I have to change the Morel diaphragm any way. I have a pair new diaphragm.

Greetings Gabor🙂
In aesthetic terms I like the wood on #118 the better... (port not so heavy I guess).

Your considerations on the metal cones diaphragms (post #127) must be of great value to the forum members and represent a good experience in their use to others. They can be very peculiar.
 
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Hello Inductor
I look at both picture probably you right.
When will be stained that give me more realistic picture. I will decide if I use wood at the port tube or not.
Probably I'll take your advise and leave the wood ring out at the port tube.
Thanks
Greetings Gabor
 
Hi

Long time since I started these thread
I ended up with a pair 10" Alcone AC 10HE
http://www.rumoh.eu/nl/alcone/3474-alcone-ac-10-he.html
Also I have a pair Hi-VI research
http://www.rumoh.eu/nl/10-woofer/936-f10-hi-end-woofer.html
Before those 2x 10" I had a pair Monacor 8"
http://www.rumoh.eu/nl/monacor/1768-sph-200ke.html

Now after some listening test lot of headache and heart ......... etc..
I just found out the Alcone has 2 different speech on the net, huge difference between the two data.
Also someone measure the (new) Monacor and the result far from the company speech or data.
I know the shared data for the driver usually after break in but both the Alcone and Monacor has so big difference hard to believe ever meat with the orig data.

I tested all 3 driver over the 75L BR enclosure (the port is very long and not tuned)
I did several hours listening and I'm not to happy with either of them.
Rather write I'm very unhappy with the heard sound.

The Alcone sound thin, dry, but that bass I get at least is controlled (the driver not broken in yet)
The HI-VI has big fat sound, not precise, (tube like rounded bass) somehow to loud around 200Hz and up even do I used a 6.2mH coil..

I got used to it to my Visaton AL130 13cm driver (8 years I listen those driver in a 12L BR enclosure) compare to that these 10" drivers are to slow and lazy somehow.
I can't test the Monacor because that only 8" and the cut out on the box made for a 10" driver, all do I did put at the front of the hole and since to be faster than the 2 10" drivers.
I have to cut a ring from plywood for the Monacor so I can test it well that to.
The Monacor optimal 50L BR and my Enclosure 75L.
Only the HI-VI was mounted and I try to avoid to mount the Monacor or the Alcone.
In case I will decide to sell those driver (I have to just I need one pair) It will lose a lot from their value if I mount or solder them.
Right now I can't pick between the drivers (the biggest problem)
Sometimes I fill the project is just a waste of $$$$.....
Probably I would be much happier if I buy 4 pair Visaton AL130 and build a 60L line array with them, now is to late... money was spent already
I like that little Visaton that much!
I taught the Alcone will be the same (close) category than the Visaton AL series, that is far from the truth.
The HI-VI not bad but not my cup of tea.
The Monacor need further testing and my main focus to go with 10" woofer at low end.
I would love to cross the low around 250-300Hz max.
Any advise (just please do not ask to trow them out and start all over again because if I think about $$$ and the effort invested in the enclosure I start to faint)
One of my friend told these so many time
Big drivers, big speakers big problem, small drivers less problem.
Top of that these must be 3 way system and must get nice 30Hz bass or at least close to that.
Any advise more than welcome.
Pictures will follow soon.
Here is the other or secon data from the Alcone driver
http://www.hifisound.de/oxid/oxid.p...984eb4f8.73714729/ALCONE-10-HE---ALU-MEMBRAN/

Greetings Gabor
 
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Gabor,
Where did you buy your flared port tube from, was locally?

VOLT B250.8, VB = 75.0 L, FB = 29.0 Hz, Qb = 7.0
F3 outside(no gain) = 29Hz, F6 (-3 with room gain) = 26Hz

This is a studios application driver for studio monitors. It was designed for a very demanding environment. Look that it has a 25mm maxim. excursion (before damage) or Xlim/Xmech important at low frequencies and high power. Nice specs overall and no less important it's also mated for your box approx. size and available in your area. And it goes veeeery looooow!😎

Solen Canada - Solen Electronique Inc.
Item B250.808 - Retail price: 219.13$EACH (this date)
http://www.solen.ca/pdf/volt/b2508.pdf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT9jH2F-jwQ
 
Your discussion leaves a bitter taste in the mouth...😀

Hello
Iductor and others I went over the thread several tines (until I found right material and source for my enclosure I had time to do so) 😀
Reading some of my post or answer to your help I still feel I own you guys a honest apology!
One more time want to thank you to all especially to Inductor the help I got and your patience needed to deal with me and my ESL (English as second language) and grammar.
Thank you guys from the bottom of my heath. 🙂

Greetings gabor
 
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