Just got hold of a pair of cabs which had lowthers in looking for ideas on which mark audio paper units or others which could be made to work, it looks from size that these are the lowther club of norway design i can easy make some baffles to suit drivers not sure if small drivers will work or if i need to go large i do have some chn 70s here in pensil cabs but not sure if these could be tried.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
The “Noregian” voigt for thr Lowther.
It should be noted that it has been clearly shown that mass-loading a voigt does a long ways to dealing with the typically large amount of ripple.
As to which driver wouldbest work, you will have to lean on someone with good TL modeling tools & skills.
dave
It should be noted that it has been clearly shown that mass-loading a voigt does a long ways to dealing with the typically large amount of ripple.
As to which driver wouldbest work, you will have to lean on someone with good TL modeling tools & skills.
dave
In my experience (with extensive measurements and listening tests)
1. Voigts are not critical with driver paramters
2. Drivers with typical bass reflex features like a Q around 0.3 and for a 8" driver an FR in the 30-50 Hz range will work best.
2. High Q drivers with light cones and high Fr say 50-70 Hz, work but is not ideal
3. High Q driver with massive cones and low Fr sound really really bad!
But simulation software and "what if" tests is the best.
1. Voigts are not critical with driver paramters
2. Drivers with typical bass reflex features like a Q around 0.3 and for a 8" driver an FR in the 30-50 Hz range will work best.
2. High Q drivers with light cones and high Fr say 50-70 Hz, work but is not ideal
3. High Q driver with massive cones and low Fr sound really really bad!
But simulation software and "what if" tests is the best.
Some info here Voigt Pipe.
Mentioned going to a smaller driver using an adapter plate, or "supra-baffle". How hard can it be to cut out a couple of square boards to cover what's there and mount up those CHN70s? Then you can tell us ;')
The article also mentions the driver Fr being a couple Hz lower than the 60 Hz operating point, while the cab is a few Hz higher @64. This is clearly not the case for the CHN 70's 70Hz Fr value. So maybe it's not worth doing... Then again, maybe it works OK for small-signal stuff. Can you resist trying?
Maybe the experience inspires you to get a driver more appropriate to the cabinet?
Mentioned going to a smaller driver using an adapter plate, or "supra-baffle". How hard can it be to cut out a couple of square boards to cover what's there and mount up those CHN70s? Then you can tell us ;')
The article also mentions the driver Fr being a couple Hz lower than the 60 Hz operating point, while the cab is a few Hz higher @64. This is clearly not the case for the CHN 70's 70Hz Fr value. So maybe it's not worth doing... Then again, maybe it works OK for small-signal stuff. Can you resist trying?
Maybe the experience inspires you to get a driver more appropriate to the cabinet?
That link sucks! 🙁 I assume it's from Bob Brines's site, so better to use the archives: Voigt Pipe
As Dr. Boar pointed out, it's fairly universal other than the vent tuning, so either go 'old school' reflex tuning or sim with a duct or tube vent and damp to 'taste'.
As Dr. Boar pointed out, it's fairly universal other than the vent tuning, so either go 'old school' reflex tuning or sim with a duct or tube vent and damp to 'taste'.
i tried the chn on sub baffle last night and was sounding interesting apart from it got the wobbles at times played at low volume so gave up as did not want to damage. would an alpair 10p or 12p work ? as i am in the dark when it comes to measuring things which is why i started this thread to see if anyone had suggestion of suitable driver. thanks for replies so far
I use a pair of Tannoy 8" DC drivers in my Decca Corner Horns (which I think are a kind of folded Voigt horn). They work well (with a big peak around 80Hz - I use an EQ to stamp on it).
From my personal experience that pipe is not very good design and sure as hell not suitable for Lowthers.
To answer your question both 10P and 12P have suitable parameters and will work, but only if you wish mediocre performanse of excellent drivers.
Below 70-80Hz response will drop fast with poor cone control and ragged upper bass.
My advice is to fully stuff it with 1lbs/0,5kg polyester wadding and put some driver that works well in a 33 liter closed box (same as volume of the pipe).
For eg. Tang Band W6-2144. Very good reviews, cheaper than 12P, and should give same if not better low end response in such arrangement.
To answer your question both 10P and 12P have suitable parameters and will work, but only if you wish mediocre performanse of excellent drivers.
Below 70-80Hz response will drop fast with poor cone control and ragged upper bass.
My advice is to fully stuff it with 1lbs/0,5kg polyester wadding and put some driver that works well in a 33 liter closed box (same as volume of the pipe).
For eg. Tang Band W6-2144. Very good reviews, cheaper than 12P, and should give same if not better low end response in such arrangement.