Hi,
Live and learn or not as the case may be. There are different ways of doing
it covered by the FAQ's here : http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
You can slowly work your way to understanding what is required or take
a shortcut, your ears should be totally unbiased. I may have sounded
a bit preachy, but TBH some people messing around actually never
get to a good all round speaker, and spend a fortune messing around
with drivers and crossovers and conjecture, never getting a good speaker.
You are stuffed without good measurements and proper x/o design.
I've never seen a test of a Goldwood driver with anything good to say ....
YMMV but I can guarantee any of the above 3 ways would be
gobsmackingly good stuck on the end of a good hifi system.
rgds, sreten.
Live and learn or not as the case may be. There are different ways of doing
it covered by the FAQ's here : http://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/diy
You can slowly work your way to understanding what is required or take
a shortcut, your ears should be totally unbiased. I may have sounded
a bit preachy, but TBH some people messing around actually never
get to a good all round speaker, and spend a fortune messing around
with drivers and crossovers and conjecture, never getting a good speaker.
You are stuffed without good measurements and proper x/o design.
I've never seen a test of a Goldwood driver with anything good to say ....
YMMV but I can guarantee any of the above 3 ways would be
gobsmackingly good stuck on the end of a good hifi system.
rgds, sreten.
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I know the crossover is a critical component. And the world best crossover is worthless with junk drivers. So far, compaired to some $150 each speakers, mine equipped with only a 6db 650,8khz three way and cheap Parts Express drivers, sounds better to me, is much louder, does not distort with heavy bass, and as I said, cymbals sound like brass, not an air hose.
This will hold me until I come up with better drivers. And I will then let loose of the frogs for those expensive LR-2 shunt coils. I'm going to test and see if some ferrite core lower cost inductors will work since their main job is to "burn off" out of cross signals. I will obviously need good air core coils for series pass functions.
Mistakes on those 2 and 3+ mh pole coils get expensive, the proven value isn't all that bad, but I do not want to buy a bunch of $15 coils I can't use.
Actually, my next one will likely be an adjustable active crossover.
This will hold me until I come up with better drivers. And I will then let loose of the frogs for those expensive LR-2 shunt coils. I'm going to test and see if some ferrite core lower cost inductors will work since their main job is to "burn off" out of cross signals. I will obviously need good air core coils for series pass functions.
Mistakes on those 2 and 3+ mh pole coils get expensive, the proven value isn't all that bad, but I do not want to buy a bunch of $15 coils I can't use.
Actually, my next one will likely be an adjustable active crossover.
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Also, I'll add in, it's good enough to show just how bad the mix is on some CD's. I don't like to play some of them now, some are distorted and have unpleasant frequency balances. I couldn't hear much difference on my car stereo for example. Everything I play on it has that "car stereo sound". There's an advantage, you can play anything on it. 🙄
Thanks, you did put me onto the thought that as the music moves farther past the rolloff point, more and more harmonics are dropped. This would say a 6db crossover is more likely to cause distortion or coloring. A sharper rolloff as with a 12db or higher, will simply drop all frequencies past the rolloff point.
Hi,
You haven't even looked at the links I suggested.
Fair enough, learn the hard way, if you ever do.
Look at the designs at Zaph Audio for the process.
A hifi and a car stereo are chalk and cheese.
rgds, sreten.
You haven't even looked at the links I suggested.
Fair enough, learn the hard way, if you ever do.
Look at the designs at Zaph Audio for the process.
A hifi and a car stereo are chalk and cheese.
rgds, sreten.
I looked at them, but are too busy to settle deeply into them. I'll review in depth soon, and I do appreciate your help. Thanks. Don't forget , internet communication can be sort of tricky.
I do gather lots of burrs when I stray off the path. Sometimes they grow some nice flowers ! Cheers for now.
I do gather lots of burrs when I stray off the path. Sometimes they grow some nice flowers ! Cheers for now.
The design I now have only has minor finishing touches to do and was planned from the start. From selecting the woofer to pair with a 1.7 cf chamber, and the mid and tweeter crossovers. With these low cost tweeters, as figured it did work out to let the mid driver handle heavier fundamentals up to 8khz. It's my design and no proprietary restrictions, though I do not plan to market it, I can build a few in honest business.
The closed back midrange was a work "saving' mistake. I ended up having to open it and fit a chamber, which works well enough but not as good as it could be.
Now I'm down to perfecting the crossover, as planned, to start with a 6db and see how it goes. This is really only supposed to be a one time project, and I must go back to concentrating on other pursuits.
I found a pair of empty Realistic Optimus 10 boxes for $5 each, thought oh no, here comes another one. And it came along surprisingly well. I'm sure some of those designs could far exceed the plain rectangular box I now have but man, $70 each and they perform like this ? I'm happy.
The closed back midrange was a work "saving' mistake. I ended up having to open it and fit a chamber, which works well enough but not as good as it could be.
Now I'm down to perfecting the crossover, as planned, to start with a 6db and see how it goes. This is really only supposed to be a one time project, and I must go back to concentrating on other pursuits.
I found a pair of empty Realistic Optimus 10 boxes for $5 each, thought oh no, here comes another one. And it came along surprisingly well. I'm sure some of those designs could far exceed the plain rectangular box I now have but man, $70 each and they perform like this ? I'm happy.
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@wavewhipper - these drivers has been in production for 30+ years for a reason. Then they were one of the most advanced drivers available. Today there is a vast selection of stuff to make speakers with. In any case you need a properly designed crossover that sometimes takes months to tune properly. The drivers has to be measured in the enclosure they will be in. Period. There is something to say about dome midrange drivers - some of the best speakers in the world use them for a reason. Check out: Welcome to Vivid Audio Personal note: I built my first serious speakers using these Visaton drivers 32 years ago and they still sound fantastic today!!! However it took a year to tune the crossover - the computer software was not as advanced as it is now - so lot of math and ear tuning…🙂
If you can live with 85dB Visaton's own B80 is a superior mid from smoothness and wide bandwidth, and not sounding, well, like a titanium dome.
B 80 - 8 Ohm
Beautiful sounding driver - one of the best anywhere.
B 80 - 8 Ohm
Beautiful sounding driver - one of the best anywhere.
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I have to buy by graphs and specs. This titanium dome midrange looks like it may be of the least muddy midrange drivers without that speaker in a coffe can sound. But oh, it's $130 each. It has about the best curve plot I have seen and already in the can. No need to build an enclosure.
Any comments on how a titanium or aluminum dome midrange might sound ?
DSM 50 FFL - 8 Ohm
I really like the power handling, and upper end. However, I'm more concerned with it's low end. For my needs, I'd like a midrange a little lower in range, say 200 Hz to 5kHz, but this may not be for you.
Also the waterfall plot has no units on the Z axis. It could be really good or really terrible. 🙂
Best,
Erik
I'd be interested to see how this performs without the large phase guide / Helmholtz. From the photograph, it looks like it may be easily removed.
I have been using the Visaton DSM 50FFL for more than 20 years in speaker designs. It does not go down as low as the famous ATC dome but gives it a whooping in the higher midrange. One of the best ,if not the best midrange dome available on the DIY market today!
And as someone mentioned before,there is a reason the world's top speaker manufacturers use metal domed mids (Vivid B&W). They have superior impulse response,less distortion and superior dispersion compared to any cone woofer in the critical high midrange area.
And as someone mentioned before,there is a reason the world's top speaker manufacturers use metal domed mids (Vivid B&W). They have superior impulse response,less distortion and superior dispersion compared to any cone woofer in the critical high midrange area.
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