It's more that the idler is not relatively tight on the shaft, and is able to rock side to side as it spins. I don't think it's moving up and down much at all. When I say "tight" I realize it needs play to be able to spin, but it seems like it's so loose it's causing noise.
Did you read my last sentence ?--
quote-"that can happen when the idler is not 90 degrees to the inner rim "
If you are saying its slack -- in other words the radius of the idler bearing is elongated on the idler shaft due to wear or just bad engineering it will not at times run true to 90 degrees in relation to the inner rim as it turns but will run at an angle which will affect the speed which in turn will affect the sound reproduction .
Picture a worn wheel bearing on the front tire of your automobile --apart from the noise your tire will wear quickly due to wrong tracking as the angle applied to the road will change.
quote-"that can happen when the idler is not 90 degrees to the inner rim "
If you are saying its slack -- in other words the radius of the idler bearing is elongated on the idler shaft due to wear or just bad engineering it will not at times run true to 90 degrees in relation to the inner rim as it turns but will run at an angle which will affect the speed which in turn will affect the sound reproduction .
Picture a worn wheel bearing on the front tire of your automobile --apart from the noise your tire will wear quickly due to wrong tracking as the angle applied to the road will change.
Of course I read what you wrote, and I appreciate your input - at least you're taking this somewhat seriously. Apologies if I seemed to gloss over what you stated. Yes, exactly - it's not running at truly 90 degrees if watching it turn with the platter is any indication. It might be 90 degrees in one spot but as it's wobbling as it turns I'm sure the angle is deviating. How do you fix this?
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I posted a link to a US Audio dealer who can help you with idlers so I will repeat it-
Voice Of Music, V-M Audio Enthusiasts
While its not impossible to engineer a new idler its certainly not worth your while it would require precision drilling of a new bush that would hold the rubber drive wheel and possibly a new shaft to fix it on .
http://devriesintl.com/catalog/pdf/31_shaft_bore_data.pdf
We are talking -- 0.003 thou. clearance .
The "noise " you are hearing from the drive motor is "load noise " from a slightly under-powered electric motor .
Voice Of Music, V-M Audio Enthusiasts
While its not impossible to engineer a new idler its certainly not worth your while it would require precision drilling of a new bush that would hold the rubber drive wheel and possibly a new shaft to fix it on .
http://devriesintl.com/catalog/pdf/31_shaft_bore_data.pdf
We are talking -- 0.003 thou. clearance .
The "noise " you are hearing from the drive motor is "load noise " from a slightly under-powered electric motor .
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Yes, I’m familiar with Gary and have purchased several idlers in the past from him. I’d not sought a replacement as the rubber is fine but I understand the other parts can become worn. I greatly appreciate the actual input, but I’m not sure why this is becoming testy and combative - I think at this point I’ll just contact Gary and go from there, and bow out here. I don’t understand the negativity in the least, and am not sure why I am coming across as not listening or understanding. Anyway, thanks to all again for actual advice, and I’ll continue to see what I can do with this metal monster.