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Verification of wiring before power up....

Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
Hey everyone,

Just got my SSE pretty much all wired. Right now I have temporarily installed a 100k pot as I ruined my 50k trying to install it, also temporarily wired in some extra RCA's I had laying around.

Was just looking for verification on my wiring before I fire this bad boy up. Only parts I got confused on were my output wiring and my main transformer wiring.

For the main transformer wiring I can just go ahead and wire nut the two brown wires and the brown/white correct, and not use them. I can also wire up the browns for 6.3 v to where I have the two yellows wired?

Also do I need to ground the transformer as in George's diagram on his site?l, if so what wires of the transformer do I use?

As mentioned above I got confused with the output trans wiring as well, does what I have look good? I've looked and looked at how to wire them, I always like a few sets of eyes to look at my work.

Any feedback is appreciated. Also the wiring isn't 100 percent done and I will be tidying that up once I get my new pot in the mail.
 

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brl0301

Member
2019-12-14 7:26 pm
Comparing your wiring to the info on the tubelab website, it looks like the transformer wiring is all correct except for the brown wires should be hooked up to the free terminal on the bottom side of board near the OPT wiring. The brown/white can be capped off
 

Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
10-4, I just went back and re read that as well. Figured I'd get confused and miss something! I was looking at one of the bottom diagrams during wiring and thought that the green wires from the power trans we're ground ��*��
Thanks!
 

brl0301

Member
2019-12-14 7:26 pm
10-4, I just went back and re read that as well. Figured I'd get confused and miss something! I was looking at one of the bottom diagrams during wiring and thought that the green wires from the power trans we're ground ��*��
Thanks!

the last diagram on the wiring section of the website looks to be the exact same configuration as your amp, other than the current lack of the volume pot. Looks like youre about ready to power it up and run through the checkout process. Very exciting stuff! Let us know how it sounds
 

brl0301

Member
2019-12-14 7:26 pm
something else I just noticed too, there is a green wire on the left side of your picture that appears to be grounded to the chassis. In the picture it appears that the underside of your chassis is painted or powdercoated. I would just make sure to scrape or sand away the paint so you can assure that you get a good connection to ground there.
 

Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
something else I just noticed too, there is a green wire on the left side of your picture that appears to be grounded to the chassis. In the picture it appears that the underside of your chassis is painted or powdercoated. I would just make sure to scrape or sand away the paint so you can assure that you get a good connection to ground there.

Thanks for the input, I'll sand that down a little just to make sure that ground is solid.

Just fired it up and she works! No hum and sounds fantastic!
 

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Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
Great news! Way to go, man!

It has been fun following along. It must be a great feeling to finally have it up and running.

Hey Cogitech,

I was indeed very happy upon power up. I still have a few small things left to do, Ill wire in my 50K alps pot when I get it and put in my permanent RCA jacks. Id say the hardest part of the build for me was trying to solder that darn pot! Rest of the wiring didnt take me long at all!

Ill also be installing the current limiter as mentioned before. Might also wire up a few more switches.

Ill let these tubes I have burn in for a while and see what they do for me sound wise, then may upgrade them.

Thanks for all the input!
 
Well I tried to wire up the rectifier switch, blew a fuse right away. I clipped off the FRED diods and all is good now. I think maybe one of the legs was loose causing a short. I had these installed.

DSEP12-12B IXYS | Mouser

I'm a bit confused. If you removed the FREDs, then what is doing the rectification when you switch it from tube rectifier to solid state?
 

Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
I'm a bit confused. If you removed the FREDs, then what is doing the rectification when you switch it from tube rectifier to solid state?

Hey Cogitech,

I removed the switch for the solid state rectification, also D1 and D2. I tried to just unwire the switch but still kept blowing my fuse right away at start up. Really weird since I didn't have an issue with them until I switched it on.
 
Hey Cogitech,

I removed the switch for the solid state rectification, also D1 and D2. I tried to just unwire the switch but still kept blowing my fuse right away at start up. Really weird since I didn't have an issue with them until I switched it on.

That is weird for sure. Hmmm... maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can comment on what may have happened.

At least you didn't damage anything else.

You didn't flip the rectifier switch with the amp powered up, did you? I've heard/read that is a terrible idea.
 
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Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
That is weird for sure. Hmmm... maybe someone more knowledgeable than I can comment on what may have happened.

At least you didn't damage anything else.

You didn't flip the rectifier switch with the amp powered up, did you? I've heard/read that is a terrible idea.

Hey Cogitech
Thanks for the reply. I had the amp off and switched the rectifier switch and turned the amp on, I hadn't turned it on all day.

Well I had the amp upside down testing it for about an hour, I had the run cap outside of the chassis for this. Turned it off flipped it over and installed the run cap, waited about 15-20 min to fire it back up and blew a fuse.

This I should have noticed, I now believe the run cap was shoritng out on the chassis. I didn't drill the holes big enough and also didn't put my rubber grommets on there. What was I thinking! Hope she's all sorted out now.

So now I don't think it was the FREDs at all, just a coincidence.
 
Hey Cogitech
Thanks for the reply. I had the amp off and switched the rectifier switch and turned the amp on, I hadn't turned it on all day.

Well I had the amp upside down testing it for about an hour, I had the run cap outside of the chassis for this. Turned it off flipped it over and installed the run cap, waited about 15-20 min to fire it back up and blew a fuse.

This I should have noticed, I now believe the run cap was shoritng out on the chassis. I didn't drill the holes big enough and also didn't put my rubber grommets on there. What was I thinking! Hope she's all sorted out now.

So now I don't think it was the FREDs at all, just a coincidence.

That sounds like a good diagnosis. Are you going to try re-installing the FREDs and try SS rectification again?
 

Steady7

Member
2015-02-06 10:10 pm
That sounds like a good diagnosis. Are you going to try re-installing the FREDs and try SS rectification again?

Yeah you bet. Now I wish I wouldn't have clipped them off. I'll get a few coming and try it out.

My mind instantly went to them being the issue, last thing I touched,but they didn't look defective, didn't smell, and no popping noise from them when I flipped the switch. I did notice one leg looked like it broke loose right above the solder pad, so thought maybe it was causing a short/draw.

Didn't even think about the run cap until I reinstalled it and blew the fuse!

I guess the moral here is to always look at the components you touched last and verify verify all your connection points!