Anyone who can telling me Is this bulb good?
250W Venture 3200K T15 Horizontal Metal Halide Lamp
MS250W/HOR/T15/3K clear bulb with mogul base
Operating position: Horizontal ¡Ó45¢X and lamp axis ¡Ó15¢X
Fixture Rating: Enclosed
Initial Lumens: 23,000
Mean Lumens: 15,000
Warm 3200¢X Kelvin Color- 65 CRI
Average rated life (hrs): 10,000
250W Venture 3200K T15 Horizontal Metal Halide Lamp
MS250W/HOR/T15/3K clear bulb with mogul base
Operating position: Horizontal ¡Ó45¢X and lamp axis ¡Ó15¢X
Fixture Rating: Enclosed
Initial Lumens: 23,000
Mean Lumens: 15,000
Warm 3200¢X Kelvin Color- 65 CRI
Average rated life (hrs): 10,000
"EYE Color Arc ","EYE Clean Arc" what's different with this two bulb
And this is another I focus after your suggestion
How about this one
High color temperature 6500¢X Kelvin and very high color rendering 90 CRI
Universal Operating position
18,000 initial and 13,500 mean lumens
10,000 hour rated average life
Thank you
And this is another I focus after your suggestion
How about this one
High color temperature 6500¢X Kelvin and very high color rendering 90 CRI
Universal Operating position
18,000 initial and 13,500 mean lumens
10,000 hour rated average life
Thank you
Much better specs
Is that in a T15 or smaller bulb? (T15 means 15/8" diameter) It does not do any good to get great color temp and lumen output, if you can't get a reflector close enough to the arc. I use a T15 Ushio Retrofit lamp, but some people really love the small designs possible with a double-ended lamp around 23 mm in diameter.
Avoid huge bulbs and frosted outer glass. (Some of the bulbs are about the size of a football!) Completely clear inner and outer glass is best. If the outer glass has a UV stop filter, that is fine, but you still need more UV filtering. The built-in filtering still lets lots of UV through.
Is that in a T15 or smaller bulb? (T15 means 15/8" diameter) It does not do any good to get great color temp and lumen output, if you can't get a reflector close enough to the arc. I use a T15 Ushio Retrofit lamp, but some people really love the small designs possible with a double-ended lamp around 23 mm in diameter.
Avoid huge bulbs and frosted outer glass. (Some of the bulbs are about the size of a football!) Completely clear inner and outer glass is best. If the outer glass has a UV stop filter, that is fine, but you still need more UV filtering. The built-in filtering still lets lots of UV through.
A T15 bulb looks like this http://www.ushio.com/det_gl_pulsestriket15.htm
Whether it's made by Ushio or Venture or some other manufacturer, T15 refers to the shape of the bulb.
Whether it's made by Ushio or Venture or some other manufacturer, T15 refers to the shape of the bulb.
condensor & fresnels
Pre-condensor lens: It depends on the size of the LCD. If you will be using a 15" or larger LCD with a 220 mm fl or less condensor fresnel, then a pre-condensor lens does not gather much more light. If you will be using a 7" LCD with a 220 mm fl or less condensor fresnel, then a pre-condensor lens will make your image a lot brighter. It works by gathering all the light that would otherwise spread out to a 17" LCD, and refracts it all to a narrower cone to light the 7" LCD. (About six times brighter!)
Fresnels: Yes, you do need fresnels to gather the converging cone of light from the MH lamp (or pre-condensor lens), and then to send it in a converging cone to the projection lens. You might be able to do this with a single 200 mm fl fresnel 20 mm before the LCD, but a pair of fresnels works better. Most people use a 200-220 mm fl fresnel first (the condensor fresnel) to make a parallel beam. Then a 330 mm fl fresnel (the field fresnel) directs the light into the projection lens. The fresnels can be together 20 mm before the LCD, or they can be split with the condensor fresnel 20 mm before and the field fresnel 20-30 mm after the LCD.
If you get a set of fresnels and triplet from a DIY projection store (like lumenlab) then they should all work together.
Pre-condensor lens: It depends on the size of the LCD. If you will be using a 15" or larger LCD with a 220 mm fl or less condensor fresnel, then a pre-condensor lens does not gather much more light. If you will be using a 7" LCD with a 220 mm fl or less condensor fresnel, then a pre-condensor lens will make your image a lot brighter. It works by gathering all the light that would otherwise spread out to a 17" LCD, and refracts it all to a narrower cone to light the 7" LCD. (About six times brighter!)
Fresnels: Yes, you do need fresnels to gather the converging cone of light from the MH lamp (or pre-condensor lens), and then to send it in a converging cone to the projection lens. You might be able to do this with a single 200 mm fl fresnel 20 mm before the LCD, but a pair of fresnels works better. Most people use a 200-220 mm fl fresnel first (the condensor fresnel) to make a parallel beam. Then a 330 mm fl fresnel (the field fresnel) directs the light into the projection lens. The fresnels can be together 20 mm before the LCD, or they can be split with the condensor fresnel 20 mm before and the field fresnel 20-30 mm after the LCD.
If you get a set of fresnels and triplet from a DIY projection store (like lumenlab) then they should all work together.
For now I already got the 8" LCD and fresnels 220,330mm fl and 80mm Projection Lens Triplet MH bulb(still looking for) so from your previous reply seems I may need Pre-condensor lens but what the size the Pre-condensor lens(diameter) I need? is that depend by bulb or distance?
Thanks for help
Thanks for help
get out your pencil & paper
Look at this post, for a good starting point to find the right pre-consensor lens:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=576303&highlight=#post576303
Maybe not perfect, but probably good enough.
Look at this post, for a good starting point to find the right pre-consensor lens:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=576303&highlight=#post576303
Maybe not perfect, but probably good enough.
They are right!
"Retrofit" means it is designed to be a screw-in replacement for a 250 Watt HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lamp, to change from the nasty pink sodium light to pure white MH light.
So it uses an S-50 HPS ballast, starter, and capacitor. All of which would be present in a 250 Watt HPS fixture.
If you get the Ushio 400 Watt Retrofit MH lamp, then you use it with an S-51 HPS ballast, starter, and capacitor. The 400 Watt lamp costs exactly the same as the 250, and I think the ballasts are pretty much the same price, too!
One interesting point: You may be able to find one of these HPS ballast kits locally, since HPS lighting is widely used for street lamps, parking lots, etc. Then you just have to pay for shipping the lamp (ie. from atlantalightbulbs.com), which is about 1/20th the weight of the ballast. If not, www.goodmart.com has cheap ballast kits. Make sure you get one with the right S-50 or S-51 code, and it has to have a power input for your local voltage (ie. 120 VAC?).
"Retrofit" means it is designed to be a screw-in replacement for a 250 Watt HPS (High Pressure Sodium) lamp, to change from the nasty pink sodium light to pure white MH light.
So it uses an S-50 HPS ballast, starter, and capacitor. All of which would be present in a 250 Watt HPS fixture.
If you get the Ushio 400 Watt Retrofit MH lamp, then you use it with an S-51 HPS ballast, starter, and capacitor. The 400 Watt lamp costs exactly the same as the 250, and I think the ballasts are pretty much the same price, too!
One interesting point: You may be able to find one of these HPS ballast kits locally, since HPS lighting is widely used for street lamps, parking lots, etc. Then you just have to pay for shipping the lamp (ie. from atlantalightbulbs.com), which is about 1/20th the weight of the ballast. If not, www.goodmart.com has cheap ballast kits. Make sure you get one with the right S-50 or S-51 code, and it has to have a power input for your local voltage (ie. 120 VAC?).
mirrors
No, mirrors reflect Infra-Red just as well as visible light, so they do not remove heat. People use mirrors to make their projectors smaller. The price they pay for that is 5 to 10% of the light is lost by each mirror, and a mirror in the image path must be an expensive first-surface mirror.
No, mirrors reflect Infra-Red just as well as visible light, so they do not remove heat. People use mirrors to make their projectors smaller. The price they pay for that is 5 to 10% of the light is lost by each mirror, and a mirror in the image path must be an expensive first-surface mirror.
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