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Hi all. My first post on this forum. Been lurking around reading a lot and I'm amazed at all the knowledge on here 🙂
So anyways, bought my very first tube amp and I'm totally hooked! Coupled it with a Heed phono pre fed by a Rega P25 with a Benz MC high output.
Also feeding it with Wimp HIFI through a Sonos via a DAC magic for casual listening.
Now for my questions;
I'd like to try some upgrades in the power tubes in exchange for the generic Chinese EL34S, and I've been reading a lot of good about the Genalex kt77 Gold Lion. Also I'd like to try the 6CA7s from Electro Harmonix for a supposedly fatter sound.
Now I wonder, will I have to change anything on the amp or does the term self biased mean it will automatically adjust itself (fat chance, right!?) to the new valves, which I believe draw a lot more current than the original valves?
If so, is it hard to do? Or something I could learn to do myself and in that case what kind of instrumentation would i require?
I know I can probably go to my dealer but I'd so like to be able to swap and try in the comfort of my listening chair.
All input is welcome on this for me totally new world of sound.
Anyways, fun to be here and all the best
Now I wonder, will I have to change anything on the amp or does the term self biased mean it will automatically adjust itself
(fat chance, right!?) to the new valves, which I believe draw a lot more current than the original valves?
If the amp is self biased, there is a large output tube cathode resistor that generates the bias voltage, and this tends to compensate for variations in tubes.
The KT77-EL34-6CA7 types are all electrically similar and will work in the same socket. Some of their filaments draw more current than others, if I recall.
If (as is almost certainly the case) self bias simply means RC networks in the O/P tube cathode circuitry, you are in a "plug and play" situation. 🙂
Yes, the "reissue" Gold Lion KT77 is a fine tube. Communicate with a RELIABLE vendor to ensure that the tubes you receive are appropriate to your situation. It's all too easy to get tubes whose cathode current makes them a poor mate for your equipment.
Yes, the "reissue" Gold Lion KT77 is a fine tube. Communicate with a RELIABLE vendor to ensure that the tubes you receive are appropriate to your situation. It's all too easy to get tubes whose cathode current makes them a poor mate for your equipment.
I'd like to try some upgrades in the power tubes in exchange for the generic Chinese EL34S, and I've been reading a lot of good about the Genalex kt77 Gold Lion. Also I'd like to try the 6CA7s from Electro Harmonix for a supposedly fatter sound.
If your amp came with Chinese 6N3P's as driver and preamp tubes, I'd roll in some NOS Russian versions first.
jeff
Just talked to the agent for Vincent and T.A.C. and he thought that I'd have problems tube rolling with this model since it would need to be recalibrated compared to the T.A.C. 35, which is "auto biased".
What's the difference between self biased and auto biased?
And Jeff, are you suggesting an exchange of the preamp tubes as well?
Thanks for you replies so far
What's the difference between self biased and auto biased?
And Jeff, are you suggesting an exchange of the preamp tubes as well?
Thanks for you replies so far
Any suggestions on a reliable vendor?
Talked with Watford Valves and he asked me to go to the manufacturer to make sure I wouldn't have any issues he couldn't sort out since we're quite far away from each other.
Talked with Watford Valves and he asked me to go to the manufacturer to make sure I wouldn't have any issues he couldn't sort out since we're quite far away from each other.
If You want change to tubes with more current, You can note if Your PS /rectifier, and also, important, chock, OT will keep more current?/ is suitable for increasing the current. Also more current, probably, leads to increasing the humm, because Uhumm=Rps X I /I that will increase/. in Instead 6N3P You can use 5670, that is best in that series.
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Not familiar with the tapatalk. Two of my posts seem to have disappeared 🙁
What's the difference between self biased and auto biased? (As in the T.A.C. 35)
What's the difference between self biased and auto biased? (As in the T.A.C. 35)
Seems my posts dissappear...
Trying again, what's the difference between self biased and auto biased (as in the T.A.C. 35)?
And thanks for your replies so far! Just please try, if you can, to keep it simple since I'm a noob at tubes
Trying again, what's the difference between self biased and auto biased (as in the T.A.C. 35)?
And thanks for your replies so far! Just please try, if you can, to keep it simple since I'm a noob at tubes
Autobias is with cathode resistor, that lift U cathode compared to first grid.
Self bias is the same.
Fixed bias is powering the first grid with minus U from separated U DC. /Cathode connected to ground/.
Self bias is the same.
Fixed bias is powering the first grid with minus U from separated U DC. /Cathode connected to ground/.
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Seems my posts dissappear...

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And Jeff, are you suggesting that I look into changing the preamp tubes?
Yes. The stock Chinese tubes don't have a very good reputation. The Shuguang EL34's generally aren't that bad thou.
jeff
So it's the same? Then they could be exchanged without me having to recalibrate? Or what am I missing?
And these would be a straight swap, azazello?
My main concern is still about the possible need to have to recalibrate...
And trying to stay away from any unnecessary frying
My main concern is still about the possible need to have to recalibrate...
And trying to stay away from any unnecessary frying
If you are still looking at valves for the power side, I recommend Winged Cs as being an excellent all-rouder. I've tried the EH 6CA7 but they lack midrange qualty for my tastes. I've going to try some GE JAN 5670 in the second system preamp (used in conjunction with a tpa3116 power amp).
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