Unmounting Samsung 151s: w/ images/ Questions to continue the projector plan!

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My "kind of tutorial" is in the beginning. People that already have dismantled samsung 151s, please correct me if I forgot anything. I have some questions In the end (it's in bold "questions"), please answer them if you know. Especialy, if you are european!


Disclaimer: this should be used only as a reference, and not as a detailed guide. Do it at your own risk. I don’t give you any guarantees that it will be the exact steps I’ve described. Your Samsung 151s CAN be differently manufactured than the one I took apart; it is not my fault if that’s the case. There can be some errors in this document. I’m Portuguese, so my English isn’t perfect. Nevertheless, I think it is good enough to be readable and understandable.


If you want to remount the panel back to how it was, pay lots of attention to what you are doing. There aren’t many things to unplug and disconnect… just enough to get you lost when you finish. Make diagrams, take photos while you do it (like I did), or even better, a video… This is also useful to speed up the process of reconnecting the cables to test the panel.

I didn’t write this guide while I was taking the LCD apart, so there can be some things I forgot. The photos were meant to be my reference if I wanted to rebuild the LCD, so they aren’t always the best possible quality, but they serve the purpose.

(Don’t pay attention to the background from the pictures, it is an old blanket=)



What you need:
Screwdriver (standard and precision screwdrivers)
1 hour
Someone to help (not absolutely necessary, but very helpful)


1:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Lay the panel somewhere with the screen facing down (I did this in a bed 😛)
Take the VGA (Isn’t visible in the image, but if you can’t do this part on your own, you might as well give up ) and power cables out (1).
Unscrew 8 back screws (2). They can be a little hard to unscrew, just apply more strength, if needed.
Remove the plastic by simply pulling it away (3)



2:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

After removing these panels you should be looking at something like this:
Unplug those blue, rose and white cables (4)
Unscrew 4 screws that hold that metal piece (5) (already taken in the picture)
Pick the metal plate piece in its right side (6) and flip it the other way (you ate going to flip to the upper part of the screen). There is a cable, so be careful. It’s fairly resistant, but just do it calmly
(I’ve removed the plastic piece (7) you see surrounding the screen, don’t remember if it had any additional screws, but it was really straightforward and I didn’t encounter any problems)




3:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

You should have something like this:
These black pieces (8) are glued to the metal (in the picture one is already out). It is simple to remove them, using a screwdriver to slowly unglue them from the sides.
Disconnect the cable (9) and unscrew this (9b)
Unglue this kind of “alumium metal paper” (10)




4:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Unscrew all 6 (I think) of the gold screws (11) (I found them to be tricky because you have to apply some strength and I was afraid to break the circuit panel if the screwdriver escaped from the screw) (I used the precision screwdriver here)
Take the metal frame (12) by seeing in all sides of the panel where it is plugged. Simply use the screwdriver to unplug it.





5:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

here, you have the famous 20 pin FFC cable (13)
Now you have to move a little black piece of plastic (in the blue arrow direction) that is holding the cable, and then, gently pull the cable (in the red arrow direction)
(in the picture I’ve already done this)






6:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

flip the green panels in the obvious direction (out of the screen) with care not to break the “black ribbon cables” (14)
Turn the panel upside down… with the screen facing you:



7:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

you have this:
In this picture you can’t clearly see it, but there some kind of glue in those sides of the panel
You have to unglue it, by pulling the panel, starting from this corner (16), really slowly. Don’t rush it here, or you can break the LCD panel.


8:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

finally you should have this: the important part is the black panel (LCD).

To test it, if you don’t have a 20 pin FFC extension, you have to test it with those green panels in its back to be able to connect the FFC cable. You have to connect everything except the white panel (backlight). So, you have the LCD panel with the FFC cable connected, the metal piece where the VGA and power connections were, and the plastic frame with the power, brightness and the rest of the LCD controls.


I didn’t take apart the metal piece where the power and VGA connectors are because I will use it as it is in my final projector, outside of the enclosure, with a hole to let the cable pass through.

That’s all I have done.


QUESTIONS

If you want to help me, please let me know if there are European places where I can get FFC cables, Fresnel panels, and Lens.
I’ve already seen some UK sites with FFC cables, but only sell FFC cables in quantities of 5, or more :S. Only need one. The nearest to Portugal, the better.
Also, can you confirm: 20 pin FFC cable 0.5 mm pitch and a zif connector is all I need to extend my cable?
I’m following more or less the lumenlab guide… Is it absolutely necessary to get a cold mirror and a UV filter? Where to get them?
Thanks in advance
 
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