Hey team,
I remember there being some chatter about this, but alas my searches havent been too successful. please do point me anywhere if this is already discussed.
Planning to build an outboard power supply (dual mono, 2x 400 or 500va trafo) to power various projects - Aleph J, F5, F6, etc. and beyond. Logically, a +/- 24V output is the ideal.
I had thought originally to put 2x UPS boards within the power chassis and send umbilicals up. They would sit close to each other the two, but the idea is a modular pass system so we can enjoy various builds without having to invest in redundant parts, larger chassis, etc. etc.
Thanks in advance.
I remember there being some chatter about this, but alas my searches havent been too successful. please do point me anywhere if this is already discussed.
Planning to build an outboard power supply (dual mono, 2x 400 or 500va trafo) to power various projects - Aleph J, F5, F6, etc. and beyond. Logically, a +/- 24V output is the ideal.
I had thought originally to put 2x UPS boards within the power chassis and send umbilicals up. They would sit close to each other the two, but the idea is a modular pass system so we can enjoy various builds without having to invest in redundant parts, larger chassis, etc. etc.
Thanks in advance.
done before by several Greedy Boyz around
incidentally, rumor sez that Modushop Boyz are preparing Monoblock cases, not just case with heatsink but also adequate heatsinkless case, for outboard PSU
if you want stereo option - simple to choose from already existing cases - for amp use Dissipante 4U/400 , for PSU use Slimline 3U/350 or 4U/350
do not forget that amp need to have local cap bank ......... so you can arrange your PSU as CRC, where first C is in PSU case, R is umbilical, last C is with amp
incidentally, rumor sez that Modushop Boyz are preparing Monoblock cases, not just case with heatsink but also adequate heatsinkless case, for outboard PSU
if you want stereo option - simple to choose from already existing cases - for amp use Dissipante 4U/400 , for PSU use Slimline 3U/350 or 4U/350
do not forget that amp need to have local cap bank ......... so you can arrange your PSU as CRC, where first C is in PSU case, R is umbilical, last C is with amp
Thank you Zen Mod - those are some tasty rumors indeed.
My thoughts exactly - work off the existing cases they have, tempted to make a mini dissipante work for the amp stages. I have some small fans for most of the amp locations since its relatively poorly ventilated, the quiet fans work out beautifully.
Thanks for the note on the PSU - I assume that means bread boarding it Rectifiers, C stage + R - umbilicals out; and local Cap banks to V +/-
My thoughts exactly - work off the existing cases they have, tempted to make a mini dissipante work for the amp stages. I have some small fans for most of the amp locations since its relatively poorly ventilated, the quiet fans work out beautifully.
Thanks for the note on the PSU - I assume that means bread boarding it Rectifiers, C stage + R - umbilicals out; and local Cap banks to V +/-
if you acquire some raw pcb, witx xacto knife and small drill thingie, you can make wonders
if you want them looking mean , just spray them with Nero Opaco on top, prior to soldering parts
same applies for Cap Bank at PSU side and for same in amp case
for me - much easier than fighting with veroboard, practically making traces with wire
if you want them looking mean , just spray them with Nero Opaco on top, prior to soldering parts
same applies for Cap Bank at PSU side and for same in amp case
for me - much easier than fighting with veroboard, practically making traces with wire
Maybe from Nelson's comments , we might see a regulated dual power supply for some of his masterful amp creations. That will set the cat among the pigeons.
you had it recently in second of VFet amps
was it second?
anyway , single pair in PP output, common drain, shown here: www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_sony_vfet_pt2.pdf
again,www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_diy_sony_vfet.pdf
several of Fx and ZV amps had cap multi or simple zener follower reg or variation of same
so, Pa did it already, numerous times
did I said that I'm uberconfused with his nomenclature for VFet amps?

was it second?
anyway , single pair in PP output, common drain, shown here: www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_sony_vfet_pt2.pdf
again,www.firstwatt.com/pdf/art_diy_sony_vfet.pdf
several of Fx and ZV amps had cap multi or simple zener follower reg or variation of same
so, Pa did it already, numerous times
did I said that I'm uberconfused with his nomenclature for VFet amps?

Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
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Pass DIY Addict
Joined 2000
Paid Member
incidentally, rumor sez that Modushop Boyz are preparing Monoblock cases, not just case with heatsink but also adequate heatsinkless case, for outboard PSU
I'm really glad to hear this, because I've been wanting to do that for a while.
I'm also very interested in a 4u case where the heat sinks are easy to remove and replace that way the cost of every new circuit I want to build is just the board, parts, and heat sinks. I can build amp boards, attach them to heat sinks, and swap them out while re-using the same deluxe 4u case and connections. This way I could build a bunch of different first watt designs and storing the ones I wasn't using would just take up the space of their heat sinks and boards and not a whole 4u chassis for each one. I'd never have to remove a circuit board from a heat sink and deal with the mess of cleaning up the heat sink goop from the keratherms.
I'd save at least $260 each just by not having to buy the back panel parts kit and 4u chassis (minus the cost of the UMS heat sinks). Add in the benefit of not having to have a separate power supply for each one and that savings goes up above $700. Now I can afford to build 3 circuits for what used to be the price of one.
With quick-disconnect connectors on the power, input, and output, you could probably swap the circuit in under 5 minutes and never have to mess with the external power, input, and speaker wires.
I'm really glad to hear this, because I've been wanting to do that for a while.
I'm also very interested in a 4u case where the heat sinks are easy to remove and replace that way the cost of every new circuit I want to build is just the board, parts, and heat sinks. I can build amp boards, attach them to heat sinks, and swap them out while re-using the same deluxe 4u case and connections. This way I could build a bunch of different first watt designs and storing the ones I wasn't using would just take up the space of their heat sinks and boards and not a whole 4u chassis for each one. I'd never have to remove a circuit board from a heat sink and deal with the mess of cleaning up the heat sink goop from the keratherms.
I'd save at least $260 each just by not having to buy the back panel parts kit and 4u chassis (minus the cost of the UMS heat sinks). Add in the benefit of not having to have a separate power supply for each one and that savings goes up above $700. Now I can afford to build 3 circuits for what used to be the price of one.
With quick-disconnect connectors on the power, input, and output, you could probably swap the circuit in under 5 minutes and never have to mess with the external power, input, and speaker wires.
That is what I was currently planning/building. My amps are in a 4U 330mm x 300 mm enclosure. Power supply is in a Galaxy 330 x 280 enclosure below. Set up as a pair of monoblocks since I had two heat sinks. I am starting off with the M2x and the F6. Since the amp chassis is fairly open it should make it easier to remove the heat sinks.
I'm really glad to hear this, because I've been wanting to do that for a while.
I'm also very interested in a 4u case where the heat sinks are easy to remove and replace that way the cost of every new circuit I want to build is just the board, parts, and heat sinks. I can build amp boards, attach them to heat sinks, and swap them out while re-using the same deluxe 4u case and connections. This way I could build a bunch of different first watt designs and storing the ones I wasn't using would just take up the space of their heat sinks and boards and not a whole 4u chassis for each one. I'd never have to remove a circuit board from a heat sink and deal with the mess of cleaning up the heat sink goop from the keratherms.
I'd save at least $260 each just by not having to buy the back panel parts kit and 4u chassis (minus the cost of the UMS heat sinks). Add in the benefit of not having to have a separate power supply for each one and that savings goes up above $700. Now I can afford to build 3 circuits for what used to be the price of one.
With quick-disconnect connectors on the power, input, and output, you could probably swap the circuit in under 5 minutes and never have to mess with the external power, input, and speaker wires.
This is exactly what I'd like as well.
Just get your grounding scheme correct. I grounded my amps to the chassis, my power supply to their chassis and then tied the two chassis together amps are dead quiet.
Bill
Bill
This is the same thing I did with the external PSU for my VFET amp.Just get your grounding scheme correct. I grounded my amps to the chassis, my power supply to their chassis and then tied the two chassis together amps are dead quiet.
Bill
Works
Would you mind clarifying - your amp boards to their chassis. And the power supply chassis to the amp chassis? And tied them together? Not imagining ratchet straps but...
Just get your grounding scheme correct. I grounded my amps to the chassis, my power supply to their chassis and then tied the two chassis together amps are dead quiet.
Bill
My M2x monoblocks are in 2 deluxe 4u modushop chasses with nice XRK SLB PSU boards. There is enough room to easily change amp boards.
If I were starting over, I would welcome 1/2 width boxes with 1 heat sink each, employing a central box with dual PSU sets. Moving half the cap bank to the amp boxes would allow bigger cap physical sizes. Then, it would be easy to keep the heavy PSU box located on the rack, and have sets of the 1/2 size cases with different amp boards for easy changing, with less back pain. Dual PSUs are a very expensive, and heavy, part of this fun.
If I were starting over, I would welcome 1/2 width boxes with 1 heat sink each, employing a central box with dual PSU sets. Moving half the cap bank to the amp boxes would allow bigger cap physical sizes. Then, it would be easy to keep the heavy PSU box located on the rack, and have sets of the 1/2 size cases with different amp boards for easy changing, with less back pain. Dual PSUs are a very expensive, and heavy, part of this fun.
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