I have one and I knocked over my glass containing a small amount of orange juice. Anyways somehow a slight amount got spilled inside on the main board. The output still works, however the sound it a bit lower than normal with no distortion.
Not sure about the inputs.
I disconnected it and opened it up to see if any chip spit plastic anywhere. Chips look fine. Also doesn't look like any got on the top board. Just by spilling something near it and a little getting inside would that damage any chips?
I did spray what little contact cleaner I had on the board, but then realized it is contact cleaner with lubricant so I'm not gonna plug it in until it is properly cleaned.
Which would be best to clean the board:
1. Technical grade isopropyl alcohol.
2. Flux remover.
3. Contact cleaner.
4. Something else.
Not sure about the inputs.
I disconnected it and opened it up to see if any chip spit plastic anywhere. Chips look fine. Also doesn't look like any got on the top board. Just by spilling something near it and a little getting inside would that damage any chips?
I did spray what little contact cleaner I had on the board, but then realized it is contact cleaner with lubricant so I'm not gonna plug it in until it is properly cleaned.
Which would be best to clean the board:
1. Technical grade isopropyl alcohol.
2. Flux remover.
3. Contact cleaner.
4. Something else.
I see this wet electronics problem talked about a LOT. Most integrated circuits have either fine pins around the perimeter, or BGA (ball grid array) of tiny solder bumps under the chip. Water based liquid wicks under and between such narrow gaps, and is terrifically difficult to remove just by drying. Don't try rice. Turn the item off and remove the battery or other sources of power immediately as electrical voltage will accelerate corrosion.
The key is to get the liquid out of these tiny places before it can corrode between pins, shorting them. The electrical contact cleaner you used will not harm the electronics, as the lubricant will not corrode and will not conduct electricity. It may have helped greatly as it too will wick into tiny places, and the lubricant is great for displacing water and will help to inhibit corrosion.
The best way to get any water based liquid out from under the electronics would be any sort of alcohol. If you can soak the PCB that may be fine (depending upon what else is on the board, as alcohol can dissolve labels, some adhesives, or get into LCD displays and not come out), or use a small spray bottle to squirt alcohol under the edge of surface mount chips and anywhere else water can wick into. The alcohol will displace the water, and what little water it does not displace will absorb into the alcohol and bind to it (same as water absorbs into alcohol "Heat" as it does in your car's fuel tank) and maximize the chances it will evaporate fully. Following up with some compressed air blown under the chips after the alcohol helps as well. Placing the item in a very warm area will help evaporation.
The real test will be whether the item continues to function in the days after exposure, as that is when the corrosion will form and grow, and may short out something later. If it's still working after a few days, you are out of the woods.
The key is to get the liquid out of these tiny places before it can corrode between pins, shorting them. The electrical contact cleaner you used will not harm the electronics, as the lubricant will not corrode and will not conduct electricity. It may have helped greatly as it too will wick into tiny places, and the lubricant is great for displacing water and will help to inhibit corrosion.
The best way to get any water based liquid out from under the electronics would be any sort of alcohol. If you can soak the PCB that may be fine (depending upon what else is on the board, as alcohol can dissolve labels, some adhesives, or get into LCD displays and not come out), or use a small spray bottle to squirt alcohol under the edge of surface mount chips and anywhere else water can wick into. The alcohol will displace the water, and what little water it does not displace will absorb into the alcohol and bind to it (same as water absorbs into alcohol "Heat" as it does in your car's fuel tank) and maximize the chances it will evaporate fully. Following up with some compressed air blown under the chips after the alcohol helps as well. Placing the item in a very warm area will help evaporation.
The real test will be whether the item continues to function in the days after exposure, as that is when the corrosion will form and grow, and may short out something later. If it's still working after a few days, you are out of the woods.
I used some 70% isopropyl alcohol on the board and an acid brush to clean it. I then used compressed air to dry it and set it int he path of the air from the heater in my dad's shop with it being back far enough from the heater to where just warm air was blowing on it.
Plugged it up and it works properly again.
Plugged it up and it works properly again.