Back in the US and have just taken some measurements with the original resistor and capacitor in place.
Input voltage = 120.6 VAC
Blue + Grey = 39V
Red + gray = 38V
Blue + Red = 60V
I'll break out the soldering iron tomorrow and remove the resistor.
Input voltage = 120.6 VAC
Blue + Grey = 39V
Red + gray = 38V
Blue + Red = 60V
I'll break out the soldering iron tomorrow and remove the resistor.
Just found another auction for a planar 3 motor with a nice clear image of the components.
0.15uF capacitor it is and looks to be a 290 Ohm resistor
0.15uF capacitor it is and looks to be a 290 Ohm resistor
Just removed the resistor and jumpered the wires. The motor did kick into life and as expected runs a bit fast. It is very sluggish to start at 33 1/3 and needs a push start.
Rather then modify this I may just look for a used Rega 3 motor (usually around $60) or maybe just bite the bullet and get the Rega 24V DC motor upgrade ($166).
Rather then modify this I may just look for a used Rega 3 motor (usually around $60) or maybe just bite the bullet and get the Rega 24V DC motor upgrade ($166).
I may have to hand in my DIY credentials here but I just bought the 24V DC upgrade kit. The need to push start the current motor with no resistor in the circuit didn't sit too well, so it seemed an easy decision.
I'll get a new drive belt and ball bearing for the sub-platter. I'll probably also rewire the RCA outputs for grins.
I'll get a new drive belt and ball bearing for the sub-platter. I'll probably also rewire the RCA outputs for grins.
I'm still going the DIY route on this turmtable at the moment and managed to drop by a local Fry's to pick up a couple of 1K 2W resistors, they didn't have any 0.15 or 0.18uF capacitors.
With 120V from the wall and with the original 0.22UF capacitor. I get the following measurements
Blue + Grey => OΩ = 148V; 1K = 131V; 2K = 123V
Red + Grey => OΩ = 120V; 1K = 101V; 2K = 88.7
Blue + Red => OΩ = 193V; 1K = 164V; 2K = 144V
It's currently got the 2K resistance fitted and fitted a Tangospinner 60Hz pulley, a new belt as well as resoldering the RCAs. The TT now plays at the correct speed and sounds better than I imagined it would.
ianP,
if this is one of the original Rega 2 then you should have taken a look at the bearing, it's complete crap. You probably know that ball bearings come in grades and I hate to think just how far down the grading Rega went to save money, like the very cheapest?
I remember removing the b/bearing and it rolled around like a drunk. Same goes for the Rega 3.
The problem is that even if you lay out for a decent grade of b/bearing now, the cup has probably been deformed. Check this out before going any further.
Like so much in the audio world, good and constant advertising sells a lot of rubbish. Wish I'd seen this thread a lot earlier, then I would have marked your card a lot sooner.
if this is one of the original Rega 2 then you should have taken a look at the bearing, it's complete crap. You probably know that ball bearings come in grades and I hate to think just how far down the grading Rega went to save money, like the very cheapest?
I remember removing the b/bearing and it rolled around like a drunk. Same goes for the Rega 3.
The problem is that even if you lay out for a decent grade of b/bearing now, the cup has probably been deformed. Check this out before going any further.
Like so much in the audio world, good and constant advertising sells a lot of rubbish. Wish I'd seen this thread a lot earlier, then I would have marked your card a lot sooner.
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