UcD400hg monoblocks done

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#2
Very nice!

I've got a couple UCD400HGs on order, and I'm looking for a chassis. I was thinking of building one myself since the prices I've seen for them so far are ridiculous. So let me ask you, where did you get your chassis and how much did you pay? Are those 19" 2U chassis?
 
#4
TheMG said:
Very nice!

I've got a couple UCD400HGs on order, and I'm looking for a chassis. I was thinking of building one myself since the prices I've seen for them so far are ridiculous. So let me ask you, where did you get your chassis and how much did you pay? Are those 19" 2U chassis?
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I got them from parmetal

http://www.par-metal.com

they are 19" 2 units.

I think they were 175 dollars for two. these are steel and aluminum. the all aluminum is probably 225 for two.
 
#8
TheMG said:



Wow, that appears to be from the same guy I bought my transformers from. http://www.toroid-transformer.com/ look at contact email, @ango.com, now go to ango.com and you end up at par-metal.com!

I'll be cramming two of these amps in one of those chassis as well as some other goodness.🙂
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the fax number is the same for both places as well. Par Metal is located in New Jersey. And I am in NYC so its right next door. the fit of the cases were good. as well cosmetically good. If I were to build it again I would get the all aluminum cases. So I can just mount the amp modules to the bottom as opposed to the aluminum face plate like I did. but it actually looks kinda cool to be to have the four recessed screws on the front plate. So it all worked out.

I think I will make the same thing again soon but 2 UcD700hg mono blocks.
I want to bi-amp a pair of Nautilus 802D's.

Or I would guess the 700hgs could easily run the N802d's fine by themselves.

What other goodness will you be adding to your UcD build?
 
#9
Congratulations.

I'm not bothered by the "big" boxes, but by:
a) unnecesary long cables (power, signal, speaker). Better mounting the module on back or lateral wall.

b) lack of vent holes (maybe it's me that I can't see them) on bottom of the case. Holes up and down the box + vertical mounting of the module help convective cooling of the parts. Check the different parts Tº.

Enjoy,
M
 
#10
maxlorenz said:
Congratulations.

I'm not bothered by the "big" boxes, but by:
a) unnecesary long cables (power, signal, speaker). Better mounting the module on back or lateral wall.

b) lack of vent holes (maybe it's me that I can't see them) on bottom of the case. Holes up and down the box + vertical mounting of the module help convective cooling of the parts. Check the different parts Tº.

Enjoy,
M
Click to expand...

If I touch the front plate where the module is mounted inside its just warm even playing at loud levels for hours. It seems pretty efficient. I had planned on driling holes on the bottom. I think I will because I really just forgot to. I left the cables a bit longer because it was easier that way 🙂

currently they are on the side on the floor next to the speaker stands. so I guess convection is working in this orientation.
 
#11
croger said:

What other goodness will you be adding to your UcD build?
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A digitally controlled 4-input multiplexer, 3-band EQ, volume control, AM/FM tuner, and output power limiter, programmable presets with a nice 4x20 character LCD display as well as information such as temperature, output power, etc. And of course a switch to bypass all of this in case I want to use it just as an amp. Almost forgot, remote control too.

I'm killing two birds with one stone here, building myself a nice amp, and what will also be my project for one of my classes (which is why the digital part is in there).
 
#13
TheMG said:



A digitally controlled 4-input multiplexer, 3-band EQ, volume control, AM/FM tuner, and output power limiter, programmable presets with a nice 4x20 character LCD display as well as information such as temperature, output power, etc. And of course a switch to bypass all of this in case I want to use it just as an amp. Almost forgot, remote control too.
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wow. I'd like to see how you do that. when you start putting it all together please post details if you can! I like the digital LED with output and temp idea.
 
#14
maxlorenz said:


Of course, but, what temperature is the output coil, the caps, the opamp and other chips? Most are not connected to the T-bone piece.
Just being devil's advocate...😀
No, seriously, the coolest they are, the longer they live.

Cheers,
M
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yeah... now you got me scared i should of installed the stuff to a proper heat sink! I will make more ventilation holes for sure.

thanks 🙂
 
#16
croger said:



the fax number is the same for both places as well. Par Metal is located in New Jersey. And I am in NYC so its right next door. the fit of the cases were good. as well cosmetically good. If I were to build it again I would get the all aluminum cases. So I can just mount the amp modules to the bottom as opposed to the aluminum face plate like I did. but it actually looks kinda cool to be to have the four recessed screws on the front plate. So it all worked out.

I think I will make the same thing again soon but 2 UcD700hg mono blocks.
I want to bi-amp a pair of Nautilus 802D's.

Or I would guess the 700hgs could easily run the N802d's fine by themselves.

What other goodness will you be adding to your UcD build?
Click to expand...



Croger,

Nice biuld. I'm finishing up my UCD700 monoblocks. I used the Hexateq chassis. Yes, they are expensive.

If you plan on building these make sure you source the proper transformer. I have had problems with the TR700s from Hypex. The secondaries run hot and shut down the module (I have pretty high wall voltage ~125VAC)

They also run pretty hot. Proper heatsink is a must.


Here are a couple of pics.


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Regards,

Marty
 
#17
mfb said:

If you plan on building these make sure you source the proper transformer. I have had problems with the TR700s from Hypex. The secondaries run hot and shut down the module (I have pretty high wall voltage ~125VAC)
Click to expand...


Yeah, I was a little skeptical about Hypex's transformer for my dual UCD400 build as well. 500VA seems to be kind of... not enough. Got myself a 700VA transformer instead, which might be slightly overkill considering I'm not going to be putting pure sines into my amp (seriously, who does?) but it's better to have a beefier transformer than not enough!
 
#18
Actually the TR700 is plently big enough. The problem is its secondaries. They are rated at 61V. If you have a higher than normal wall voltage (as I did ~125V) it generates > 96VDC on the output of the power supply. The UCD700 has an overvoltage protection that kicks in at that voltage.

I have pinged Hypex and they do have transformer with a smaller secondary. Still waiting on them to swap out my originals.

I don't think they were fully aware of the voltage flucuations in the states.

Kevin at diycable.com also has custom transformers for the Hypex stuff.

marty
 
#19
Oh I see what you mean.

But yeah the TR700 definitely is big enough.

What I was not so sure about is the TR501 (500VA) which is supposedly good for multiple UCD400. Somehow the math doesn't work out on that one if you know what I mean. Pretty sure it would push the transformer past it's limits if I were to drive both UCD400s hard for an extended period of time.
 
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