ewildgoose said:You shouldn't need two softstart modules I think? One should be sufficient?
Have you also checked that your torroids don't hum? ie you don't need a DC filter in there.
I also built a similar layout to you, but with only one transformer (pictures elsewhere in this thread). I found there was enough space in a 2U case to put the speaker plugs vertically, which keeps them a fraction further away from the input wires
I originally was going for two cases but have decided to put in one case. I already bought the softstarts. It seems LCAudio recomend one per transformer anyway.
Your right about placing the binding post vertically.
My transformers have been custom order for low noise design hense the bigger size.
Chris
Well, I didn't insulate the heat sinks from each other and the modules are working fine (except for the broken one).
Frans
Frans
FransDHT said:Well, I didn't insulate the heat sinks from each other and the modules are working fine (except for the broken one).
Frans
And I didn't insulate them either and also have a broken one. So does that make you feel secure ?
But JP has talked about screwing the heat sink to the cabinet and about taking the ground to the cabinet, so I concluded it should be safe? Screws do not insulate?
What about the capacitor bank pcb? Are the tracks big enough? I have calculated for 12 amps you need around 30mm width tracks. Should I just solder some solid copper wire on each track beside the capaitor pins?
Nickywicky,
To decrease the EMI you have to use special ferrite clamps. Please check this link; http://nl.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3234927&N=401
With these parts you can get rid of the EMI problem.
When you want to change something in your amplifier setup you MUST be sure the voltage of the powersupplie is 0-V (or the electrolytic capacitors must be discharged to 0-V). And do not touch something with your hand when the amp is switched on even not when the amp is switched in the standby mode. And NEVER touch the bottom side, when the amp is working.
Chris,
The heatsink of the UcD400 is electrically isolated from ground.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
To decrease the EMI you have to use special ferrite clamps. Please check this link; http://nl.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3234927&N=401
With these parts you can get rid of the EMI problem.
When you want to change something in your amplifier setup you MUST be sure the voltage of the powersupplie is 0-V (or the electrolytic capacitors must be discharged to 0-V). And do not touch something with your hand when the amp is switched on even not when the amp is switched in the standby mode. And NEVER touch the bottom side, when the amp is working.
Chris,
The heatsink of the UcD400 is electrically isolated from ground.
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:Nickywicky,
To decrease the EMI you have to use special ferrite clamps. Please check this link; http://nl.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=3234927&N=401
With these parts you can get rid of the EMI problem.
Jan-Peter
Well I used the following part...
http://www1.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=LF1260&CATID=&keywords=LF1260
which has an impedance of 255 @ 100Meg. ( And I also tried 6 of these sleeves end on end covering the entire cable.)
The Farnell ones have an impedance of 125 @ 100Meg so what makes them so special ?
I also tried a toroid core...
http://www1.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=LO1238
Nickywicky,
Ok it seems you have the right ferrite.
Please mount the ferrite as near as possible by the amplifier. So use for the loudspeaker wires one and one for the powersupply wires.
Are you having your TV antenna in the same room?
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Ok it seems you have the right ferrite.
Please mount the ferrite as near as possible by the amplifier. So use for the loudspeaker wires one and one for the powersupply wires.
Are you having your TV antenna in the same room?
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:Nickywicky,
Ok it seems you have the right ferrite.
Please mount the ferrite as near as possible by the amplifier. So use for the loudspeaker wires one and one for the powersupply wires.
Are you having your TV antenna in the same room?
Regards,
Jan-Peter
I'm in a two story house, the TV antenna is in the roof cavity (between the 2nd story ceiling and the roof). My UCD amp is in the ground floor. ( And the TV one channel is hit in every room in the house.)
One UCD module didn't create any interference ( I wish I could confirm this but that was the one I blew up (and by the way I usually do discharge the caps each time - but on this occasion I wanted to see the effect of the toroids as I moved them on the cable while it was on to see for any affect. But the cables accidentally touched the next-door ucd module.)
One UCD module doesn't create any interference to start with and then does. The other pretty much straight away creates interference.
Is the RFI related to the temparature of the modules ?
NW, I have not seen anyone else suffering from EMI problems and I am sure Bruno has said that EMI with these modules is very low. Could you module be damaged or faulty??
wytco0 said:NW, I have not seen anyone else suffering from EMI problems and I am sure Bruno has said that EMI with these modules is very low. Could you module be damaged or faulty??
I am wondering that; but they do sound good, so they would have to be faulty in a way that only EMI is affected and operate nicely in all other ways.
It's only one TV channel that is affected, so maybe it's a frequency not used in other countries. ( Any one else in NewZealand got some UCD400's ?)
NW, it might be worth you finding out what the frequency of the tV station affected is. Bruno or J-P might be able to say if there is any way the UCD's could put anything out near it ??
Nickywicky,
Strange problem, I have just send you a private email. We will solve this matter. Glad the modules do sound ok 😉
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Strange problem, I have just send you a private email. We will solve this matter. Glad the modules do sound ok 😉
Regards,
Jan-Peter
What would be the best way to connect a led to indicate power to module? That is, after the pull up has been activated.
NZ users
Any one else in NewZealand got some UCD400's ?
Yep. Four of us have them. I have mine in a separate room, but a friend says that he is getting mild interference on his TV1 picture.
TV1 is a VHF band signal.
Any one else in NewZealand got some UCD400's ?
Yep. Four of us have them. I have mine in a separate room, but a friend says that he is getting mild interference on his TV1 picture.
TV1 is a VHF band signal.
Re: NZ users
NW said VHF low, channel03, so the frequency range is 60-66 Mhz
(cf http://www.csgnetwork.com/tvfreqtable.html )
tim pattinson said:Any one else in NewZealand got some UCD400's ?
Yep. Four of us have them. I have mine in a separate room, but a friend says that he is getting mild interference on his TV1 picture.
TV1 is a VHF band signal.
NW said VHF low, channel03, so the frequency range is 60-66 Mhz
(cf http://www.csgnetwork.com/tvfreqtable.html )
RFI
The shorter the RF antenna the smaller the RFI I imagine, so this could be one more reason to go the long IC / short speaker cable way!
My opinion is that a long balanced interconnect which is able to carry mic-level (microvolts) signals without significative degradation should be more than adequate for line-level (volts) signal!
The shorter the RF antenna the smaller the RFI I imagine, so this could be one more reason to go the long IC / short speaker cable way!
My opinion is that a long balanced interconnect which is able to carry mic-level (microvolts) signals without significative degradation should be more than adequate for line-level (volts) signal!
I've changed the layout. There wasn't enough room to fit the rectifiers on outside wall heatsink. Also, this configuration has shorter path from trasformer->rectifier->capacitor->UcD.
I haven't found an appropiate internal heatsink yet, so the middle part may change slightly. Not sure how hot rectifiers get. I was thinking about mounting on bottom mounting plate with out heat sink.
I haven't found an appropiate internal heatsink yet, so the middle part may change slightly. Not sure how hot rectifiers get. I was thinking about mounting on bottom mounting plate with out heat sink.
Perhaps I am missing a trick, but my rectifiers are always completely cold to the touch... Zappulse & UCD400 amps...
...Do they actually need cooling at all, other than free air?
...Do they actually need cooling at all, other than free air?
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