stef1777 said:
I think I can help with this one. Yes you can, but note that the LED won't light up as it's been unsoldered.😀 😀
hello all,
i have a couple of questions for the hypex designers.
well, i saw the DS 1.2 subwoofer amp module on your site; it delivers 75 w mono. apart from the power issue, is that comparable to a UCD180 kit in terms of quality?
on the other side, i would be very tempted to buy and built a UCD180 but then there is the problem of filtering the output and provide some quind of EQ or bassboost. are there any plans on your side to design a complete classD module with advanced bass management (maybe DSP, as the amp already works digitally)?
thanx
i have a couple of questions for the hypex designers.
well, i saw the DS 1.2 subwoofer amp module on your site; it delivers 75 w mono. apart from the power issue, is that comparable to a UCD180 kit in terms of quality?
on the other side, i would be very tempted to buy and built a UCD180 but then there is the problem of filtering the output and provide some quind of EQ or bassboost. are there any plans on your side to design a complete classD module with advanced bass management (maybe DSP, as the amp already works digitally)?
thanx
Yes, you can, but be carefull with the heat to the LED. You must desolder and solder it fast to avoid excessive heating up of the LED. This will damage the LED.
Kepa1,
The DS1.2 is in a way an cheaper version of the UcD180.
We don't have plans for a subwoofer with more options as the DS2.0 or the DS4.0. We are using our R&D time for more powerfull Ucd modules 😀
Regards,
Jan-Peter
Jan-Peter said:
Thanks for the advice but I do not plan to use the same. I have nice 3mm circular leds to place on the front plate.
I will replace the led on the UcD module with a 2 pins connector.
I tested the mute circuit with the module. Works fine. I also replaced the original op amp with OPA2134.
Re: stef1777
Actually Tx seems small to me (160VA isn't it Stef?), it's been said on one of the UcD threads that up to 300VA you don't need a soft start.
maxlorenz said:Won't you need an inrush current limiter for that big Tx and caps??
Actually Tx seems small to me (160VA isn't it Stef?), it's been said on one of the UcD threads that up to 300VA you don't need a soft start.
Sorry. 
I just received mine from Plitron (Canada) and judging by the picture I thought it had the same power as mine, 300VA.
I just received mine from Plitron (Canada) and judging by the picture I thought it had the same power as mine, 300VA.
maxlorenz said:Sorry.
I just received mine from Plitron (Canada) and judging by the picture I thought it had the same power as mine, 300VA.
300VA is supposed to be perfectly ok without a soft start either. In any case you can always try, there is absolutely no risk for the amp apart from blowing the fuse.
I did try and blew a 3A fuse.
Now I'm building an inrush current limiter from ampslab. It looks OK.
http://www.ampslab.com/inrush.htm
Indeed, yours is very flat.
Now I'm building an inrush current limiter from ampslab. It looks OK.
http://www.ampslab.com/inrush.htm
Indeed, yours is very flat.
maxlorenz said:
It blew right away did it?
3A seems reasonably safe for a 230V country: rms current should not exceed 2A if you draw 200W with a power factor of 0.5 on low line. Did you use a temporized fuse ? (3AT)
Are you sure you haven't got a short circuit?
Are you sure you haven't got too much storage capacitance? As explained by Bruno in post 441, the correct sizing is 50000/R µF per rail and per channel you're powering, where R is the speaker's impedance, independently of amp power! E.g. if you have 1 channel and an 8 ohm speaker, the correct sizing is 6250uF/rail -> 6800uF/rail
There is a specialised thread for power supply questions. Yesterday I uploaded a diy-version for a softstart cicuit, built into my 4-channel UcD-amp.
Best regards, Timo
Best regards, Timo
Golgoth
Yes, it blew instantly when puting-on. I used common type fuse.
As this is my first active DIY project I installed cheap 2*4700uF caps. I haven't look at the amp since because of a delay in the construction of the inrush current limiter.
Of course, an inadverted shot circuit is a possibility
Thanks for your interest.
Mauricio
Yes, it blew instantly when puting-on. I used common type fuse.
As this is my first active DIY project I installed cheap 2*4700uF caps. I haven't look at the amp since because of a delay in the construction of the inrush current limiter.
Of course, an inadverted shot circuit is a possibility
Thanks for your interest.
Mauricio
Re: Golgoth
2*4700uF definitely is not a lot. Try a 3AT or 4AT fuse. T stands for time-delay (and not "temporized", sorry for my english) i.e. slow-blow. With a T fuse you shouldn't need an inrush limiter, if it blows systematically you definitely have a short circuit somewhere.
maxlorenz said:Yes, it blew instantly when puting-on. I used common type fuse.
As this is my first active DIY project I installed cheap 2*4700uF caps. I haven't look at the amp since because of a delay in the construction of the inrush current limiter.
Of course, an inadverted shot circuit is a possibility
Thanks for your interest.
Mauricio
2*4700uF definitely is not a lot. Try a 3AT or 4AT fuse. T stands for time-delay (and not "temporized", sorry for my english) i.e. slow-blow. With a T fuse you shouldn't need an inrush limiter, if it blows systematically you definitely have a short circuit somewhere.
My project with 4 x 10000UF + 160VA for one UcD180 works fine with an 1A slow-blow fuse.
You may be have a wiring problem. Disconnect the UcD and try the power supply alone. Check voltage at the output.
You may be have a wiring problem. Disconnect the UcD and try the power supply alone. Check voltage at the output.