Ahh, I just found out the XT25TG is not recommended for a 2 way... oh well. Back to the Tweeter selections, lol
Try this:
Recession Buster
$235 may be out of your budget, but considering that price includes everything (completed crossovers as well) but the wood, you get a lot for the money.
The other advantage here is the design, driver matching, and crossovers are already worked out for you sop you have a guaranteed success margin.
I wonder why??
Fs is low enough to cross at 2500 surely, and looking at the published specs I see no resonances that need dealing with.
D27-45-06 is good to cross that low, I have a friend who even uses 1st order that low with that tweeter.
He plays soft and sweet music however that may not place great stress on the tweeter, I have the data sheet hidden somewhere in my files, let me try and find it and Vifas recommended XO
The site I was looking at said something about bad distortion on the XT25TG.
So I'm still looking at P17WJ-00-08 & D27TG45-06 Combo... for now.
So I'm still looking at P17WJ-00-08 & D27TG45-06 Combo... for now.
That is for P17 / D26 combo, same size faceplate but apparently not functional equivalents, very similar Fs & power handling,etc; rising top end from memory.
Damn computer crash, Rabbitz sent me a whole PDF on the D27-45-06 and I've lost it, that information no longer shows on the Vifa website.
Anyway I think the P17 is good to cross anywhere between 2500 and 4k depending on tweeter and off axis performance isn't going to be much of a big deal if you are using them near-field is it??
From memory Vifa power specs were taken with the D27 crossed fairly high using B'wth 2nd at 4k, whereas I would be crossing lower, half an octave lower at 2700/3k I think.
Damn computer crash, Rabbitz sent me a whole PDF on the D27-45-06 and I've lost it, that information no longer shows on the Vifa website.
Anyway I think the P17 is good to cross anywhere between 2500 and 4k depending on tweeter and off axis performance isn't going to be much of a big deal if you are using them near-field is it??
From memory Vifa power specs were taken with the D27 crossed fairly high using B'wth 2nd at 4k, whereas I would be crossing lower, half an octave lower at 2700/3k I think.
Ordering the P17's tomorrow. Woohoo!
No matter how much I try, I can't seem to follow that schematic at all, I can kinda see the crossover parts... but then, there's these offshoots... i.e. What's R2, C8, R9, for?
No matter how much I try, I can't seem to follow that schematic at all, I can kinda see the crossover parts... but then, there's these offshoots... i.e. What's R2, C8, R9, for?
Some of those resistors show the parasitic resistance of the coils ( if it shows as a parallel component )
The other is I think the impedance correction ( Zobel )
The other is I think the impedance correction ( Zobel )
I an sure there are other recipes out there, and they are just starting points as every time you change one component I find i have to make other changes.
While I tend to use a third order XO often I am not sure it always a good thing,
While I tend to use a third order XO often I am not sure it always a good thing,
Well, I think i'll start with a 1st order, with a range of components in my hand... adjusting the values and have a good listen to each change. Put it all together after it sounds perfect. I'll just measure it one day, when I learn how and have the equipment. lol
I presume... I place the mid/woofer and tweeter in the optimal areas... around 1cm average between the two, then I can just measure the tweeter crossover for that distance, and set it using a 1st order, and add the zobel... then put a 1st order on the mid/woofer to suit, and adjust up and down until correct... if I can't get it sounding nice on 1st order... switch tweeter to a second order, ... etc.
When I build the cabinet... I was going to build just a standard wooden 16mm MDF rectangular box, screwed together with glue, simple and unattractive, and drilled for the internal dimensions of the speaker, without taking into account the faceplate. Then surround the entire cabinet with more carefully integrated 6mm MDF with 6mm curved cornace peices, cutting the faceplate diametre into this other 6mm front face...
But... the faceplate on each are 4.7mm and 5mm ... 1.3mm and 1mm less than the additional 6mm. Will this affect the sound, having a 1mm edge right beside the speaker, should I sand the 1.3/1mm off in a kind of waveguide manner?
But... the faceplate on each are 4.7mm and 5mm ... 1.3mm and 1mm less than the additional 6mm. Will this affect the sound, having a 1mm edge right beside the speaker, should I sand the 1.3/1mm off in a kind of waveguide manner?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I think i'll go with a Qtc of 5.0 for transient perfect... that will give the most accurate won't it? Might not be much bass response,... but will be more accurate for recording. Then I can create my sub with the same Qtc of 5.0 and cut it off at the main speakers lowest frequency. ... I'm excited. My plan is coming together ... *Evil Laugh*
It's 0.5, though that might've been a typing error.
A Q of 5.0 will not sound good. I can only achieve a Q that high with a box of around 50 or 60 MILLIlitres.
A Q of 5.0 will not sound good. I can only achieve a Q that high with a box of around 50 or 60 MILLIlitres.
lol... woops. Yeah, I meant 0.5, but 0.5 makes me need a box 22litres or something... not too useful for desktop nearfield monitors. I'll stick with 0.65
Or even 0.7071 and then use stuffing.
Perhaps ( depending on the tweeter ) you should look at using second order on the treble.
I do try and use Zobels on each driver these days to try and provide for a flat impedance curve; I think this may be even more important when using low order XOs
Perhaps ( depending on the tweeter ) you should look at using second order on the treble.
I do try and use Zobels on each driver these days to try and provide for a flat impedance curve; I think this may be even more important when using low order XOs
What is the difference audibly... between 0.7 and 0.5 ... at 0.7 would they still be flat, accurate, etc... what is the most audiophile to use? If I do chose 0.7, will stuffing make it seem as though I've used a lower Qtc?
I am assuming I calculated my last speakers at 0.7 and didn't even know that I had... actually they were ported so they didn't have that did they. mmm. I've never really heard a closed speaker before.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.