Transformers..
Sorry Inductor , I didn't mean anything bad for having said that ...No body is and will never be in any "ignore" list !
Time passes and to stretch my fingers I made another sketch for a boombox
Gaichuke , is that what you intended , by seeing the same subject on another thread?
May you'll have to migrate to another thread , something like "controlling 4 motors",
'coz the "thing" is folded , the tweeter tower yet to come !!
Sorry Inductor , I didn't mean anything bad for having said that ...No body is and will never be in any "ignore" list !
Time passes and to stretch my fingers I made another sketch for a boombox
Gaichuke , is that what you intended , by seeing the same subject on another thread?
May you'll have to migrate to another thread , something like "controlling 4 motors",
'coz the "thing" is folded , the tweeter tower yet to come !!
Attachments
I have to use all of them, or unless I won't get everything out of the amplifier. And yes, the amp is also non-changeable at this point. I asked the manufacturer about more detailed specifications of the 5" driver and the tweeters.
I probably will try that method in the link that DAMIC posted and try to live with the results.
Thank you everybody for your comments.
Picowall, you really do have some nice ideas! But yeah, I'm also running out of time as well, and that is way too complicated at this point... 🙂
I probably will try that method in the link that DAMIC posted and try to live with the results.
Thank you everybody for your comments.
Picowall, you really do have some nice ideas! But yeah, I'm also running out of time as well, and that is way too complicated at this point... 🙂
Inductor said:
Yes his idea/design is terrible and will probably sound awful but good sound is not the primary goal for him, building the design he has is. It sounds like he is asking if there is anything he can do to correct all of the problems but since most everything cannot be changed then I don't see how. He is not asking for a new design or different speaker set up. He wants his design to work the way it is even with all of the flaws.
All of the suggestions for better design and using fewer speakers is definatly the way to go for better sound and some of the drawings are very creative. Maybe after he builds his design he can build one that works well next.
Yes . That 's true . Give 'em a chance !
I also got to tame the problem of the tweeter tower colliding with the concrete offset of the midrange.
G'bye!!
I also got to tame the problem of the tweeter tower colliding with the concrete offset of the midrange.
G'bye!!
Dimensions of the box and a quick picture and sketch please??
Are holes cut already for the drivers?
Really ? Why 2 tweeters? could be done if one is pointing to the roof as an ambiance tweeter.
My $0.02, woofer may be OK in the box, but the 5inch should be a midrange with a proper XO as a 3-way.
Connecting them as 2 parallel 2-ways in a shared box is going to fry something.
Using 2 front firing tweeters has been done but it is usually avoided because of comb filtering issues, having an extra tweeter firing upwards or to the rear was actually common with some makers; Wharfedale in the early 60s comes to mind.
Also is this one speaker or a stereo pair???
Are holes cut already for the drivers?
Really ? Why 2 tweeters? could be done if one is pointing to the roof as an ambiance tweeter.
My $0.02, woofer may be OK in the box, but the 5inch should be a midrange with a proper XO as a 3-way.
Connecting them as 2 parallel 2-ways in a shared box is going to fry something.
Using 2 front firing tweeters has been done but it is usually avoided because of comb filtering issues, having an extra tweeter firing upwards or to the rear was actually common with some makers; Wharfedale in the early 60s comes to mind.
Also is this one speaker or a stereo pair???
Hello Moondog ,
assumed the fact that all those speakers are going to be combined into one box - a boombox - and there won't be mechanical nor phisical separation between two channels - may be batteries could be used for that istance - taken for granted that only a well projected line array of tweeters could guarantee a correct "image" , may I propose an old query (for me) about a "tweeter head"?
It should be a standalone unit , omni directional super-multi-firing , something like this :
assumed the fact that all those speakers are going to be combined into one box - a boombox - and there won't be mechanical nor phisical separation between two channels - may be batteries could be used for that istance - taken for granted that only a well projected line array of tweeters could guarantee a correct "image" , may I propose an old query (for me) about a "tweeter head"?
It should be a standalone unit , omni directional super-multi-firing , something like this :
Attachments
Any input from anyone ? It is not OT , should have been read as " how many tweeters, and where "
There should be at least a number of 5 little drivers , 4 firing in the cardinal directions plus one on top . For serial - parallel connection the number should be even? My preferred shape of box would be hexagonal or octagonal , for building comfort , or made by lot of pentagons , for reaching a nearly spherical form .
Ok , i know : by throwing there lots of 1 $ tweeters you get an omnidirectional s**t , so I'm asking which solution would You adopt.
There should be at least a number of 5 little drivers , 4 firing in the cardinal directions plus one on top . For serial - parallel connection the number should be even? My preferred shape of box would be hexagonal or octagonal , for building comfort , or made by lot of pentagons , for reaching a nearly spherical form .
Ok , i know : by throwing there lots of 1 $ tweeters you get an omnidirectional s**t , so I'm asking which solution would You adopt.
tweeter head
Nobody has the same fixation in the head of making a tweeter head?
Just a thought , I'm not asking to buy 16 expensive tweeters and give me the results of in-off axis dispersion ,polar lobing etc. , just knowing if its doable
(of course it is , otherwise all diyers would be on the road , wandering around with nothing to do ...!)
Nobody has the same fixation in the head of making a tweeter head?
Just a thought , I'm not asking to buy 16 expensive tweeters and give me the results of in-off axis dispersion ,polar lobing etc. , just knowing if its doable
(of course it is , otherwise all diyers would be on the road , wandering around with nothing to do ...!)
Hi,
are the two tweeters both really required?
They may be more sensitive than either or both of the 5inch and 10inch drivers. Just one of the tweeters needs to be only 3dB more sensitive than the other drivers to allow you to delete the second tweeter.
Are the tweeters of a sealed back design?
If so then they can be fitted into a shared box with no interaction.
The 5inch and 10inch drivers must be fitted to separate volumes. Otherwise they will interact, badly. To the extent that one might be destroyed by the other.
Let's assume the 5inch deserves it's own volume/space. Can the box be altered to give the 5inch an open back loading and keep the box volume for the 10inch? A 6inch tube going right through the box and exiting through the back panel may give a nice midrange without any boxyness. Some light stuffing with longhaired wool may be all that is needed to "tune" the 5inch driver.
are the two tweeters both really required?
They may be more sensitive than either or both of the 5inch and 10inch drivers. Just one of the tweeters needs to be only 3dB more sensitive than the other drivers to allow you to delete the second tweeter.
Are the tweeters of a sealed back design?
If so then they can be fitted into a shared box with no interaction.
The 5inch and 10inch drivers must be fitted to separate volumes. Otherwise they will interact, badly. To the extent that one might be destroyed by the other.
Let's assume the 5inch deserves it's own volume/space. Can the box be altered to give the 5inch an open back loading and keep the box volume for the 10inch? A 6inch tube going right through the box and exiting through the back panel may give a nice midrange without any boxyness. Some light stuffing with longhaired wool may be all that is needed to "tune" the 5inch driver.
Gaichuke said:
Preliminary reports look to be in the 1 area on a scale of 1-10, 10 being unbelievably awesome and 1 having all of the flaws one could make in a design. I too found this site looking for information on how to correct and make certain items for a set-up I had designed just to find out how many issues it had working against it. Don't be offended by the comments here as this is a very technical website used by brilliant, creative Hi Fi minds whom are seldom satisfied with sound that is better than what 99% of the world population has ever heard.
In their haste to optimize and correct what you listed must be used, like an eager syringe of Borg nano-probes, they ignored the concrete unchangeable items in the equation. Only after reading thru this a time or two did I ask myself what exactly can be changed. So may I ask you what part of your design is changeable? Wiring? Paint color? Location of speaker in room?
Could you possibly tell us the conditions surrounding this project that make any crucial changes not allowed? Class project? Bet? Built into something? Are you being held hostage and your only hope for survival is to work a miracle?
Your problem is quite unorthodox, if you just had drivers, you could get a fantastic box done, and also the amplifier could have been used to its maximum potential.
But what I would suggest is to go with the box anyhow, and a 10" +5" woofer is a lot of bass, you ought to use both tweeters you got!
But the main problem here is that you already have a predetermined box. I can only tell you to mount the drivers in and test. Maybe if you haven't designed the XO yet, it might help.
But what I would suggest is to go with the box anyhow, and a 10" +5" woofer is a lot of bass, you ought to use both tweeters you got!
But the main problem here is that you already have a predetermined box. I can only tell you to mount the drivers in and test. Maybe if you haven't designed the XO yet, it might help.
Let's go back to the beginning, to the original poster.
First you say the boxes are pre-determined or pre-defined? Can you expand on that?
Does that mean the boxes already exists and you want to figure out how to make these drivers fit in it?
Does it mean that you can build any boxes of any dimensions you want, as as long as all these drivers fit in the box?
If the box exists, what are its dimensions?
If the box does not exist, what are the limits on the box in terms of size and shape?
Next, list your drivers. You say 10" woofer, 5" midbass, and two tweeters, but what woofers, what midbass, and what tweeters? If you have T/S specs, then you know precisely what the drivers are. This may have been touched on, but a simple straight forward list of brands and models would go a long way in my opinion.
Next, what is your design philosophy? Why are you intent on building one box with two 2-way speakers running in parallel? What is it you hope to accomplish? Is this for house or car?
I think a clear concise statement of what you have, and what your design goals are, would help keep the responses focused more directly on solving your problem.
The more we know and the clearer it is presented, the better we can help.
The quality of the question is in direct proportion to the quality of the answer.
I speculate that making the speaker into a low-bass, mid-bass, tweeter setup in a 3-way or 2.5 way rather than two 2-ways, might give you the best bang for your buck. And in my opinion, would improve the crossover design.
Trying to cross a 10" to a tweeter is going to be difficult, but crossing a 10" to a 5" (or whatever) is easy, and crossing the 5" to the tweeter is also a relatively basic task.
As to interference between the speakers, yes there will be some. First a 10" speakers will require a large box, and the 5" midbass will require a smaller box. Where either of these preferred boxes will fit in your box is an unknown. You could section the box internally, giving each speaker a volume proportional to its required size, but again, we don't know how big a box you have.
At the heart of it, design the two speaker separately, then combine them in the box. That is about the best you can do unless you give us more information.
Again, not knowing your design philosophy or intend, I still say a 10"/5"/1" in a low-bass, midbass, high combination is a much better use of the speakers.
Steve/bluewizard
First you say the boxes are pre-determined or pre-defined? Can you expand on that?
Does that mean the boxes already exists and you want to figure out how to make these drivers fit in it?
Does it mean that you can build any boxes of any dimensions you want, as as long as all these drivers fit in the box?
If the box exists, what are its dimensions?
If the box does not exist, what are the limits on the box in terms of size and shape?
Next, list your drivers. You say 10" woofer, 5" midbass, and two tweeters, but what woofers, what midbass, and what tweeters? If you have T/S specs, then you know precisely what the drivers are. This may have been touched on, but a simple straight forward list of brands and models would go a long way in my opinion.
Next, what is your design philosophy? Why are you intent on building one box with two 2-way speakers running in parallel? What is it you hope to accomplish? Is this for house or car?
I think a clear concise statement of what you have, and what your design goals are, would help keep the responses focused more directly on solving your problem.
The more we know and the clearer it is presented, the better we can help.
The quality of the question is in direct proportion to the quality of the answer.
I speculate that making the speaker into a low-bass, mid-bass, tweeter setup in a 3-way or 2.5 way rather than two 2-ways, might give you the best bang for your buck. And in my opinion, would improve the crossover design.
Trying to cross a 10" to a tweeter is going to be difficult, but crossing a 10" to a 5" (or whatever) is easy, and crossing the 5" to the tweeter is also a relatively basic task.
As to interference between the speakers, yes there will be some. First a 10" speakers will require a large box, and the 5" midbass will require a smaller box. Where either of these preferred boxes will fit in your box is an unknown. You could section the box internally, giving each speaker a volume proportional to its required size, but again, we don't know how big a box you have.
At the heart of it, design the two speaker separately, then combine them in the box. That is about the best you can do unless you give us more information.
Again, not knowing your design philosophy or intend, I still say a 10"/5"/1" in a low-bass, midbass, high combination is a much better use of the speakers.
Steve/bluewizard
- Status
- Not open for further replies.