Hello everyone,
I have a problem where I have a predefined box with fixed dimensions and I would like to use two sets of drivers there. The box size doesn't allow two separate enclosures besides for the channels, so I have a problem.
I think this might be a bad idea, but I was wondering if any of you guys could tell me how bad exactly.
This is the setup:
10" Driver A + tweeter A parallel to 5" Driver B + tweeter B
All the elements would be on the same channel and in the same enclosure too. Thiele/Small parameters are quite different for the drivers.
Thanks for the replies.
I have a problem where I have a predefined box with fixed dimensions and I would like to use two sets of drivers there. The box size doesn't allow two separate enclosures besides for the channels, so I have a problem.
I think this might be a bad idea, but I was wondering if any of you guys could tell me how bad exactly.
This is the setup:
10" Driver A + tweeter A parallel to 5" Driver B + tweeter B
All the elements would be on the same channel and in the same enclosure too. Thiele/Small parameters are quite different for the drivers.
Thanks for the replies.
By predefined I meant that I have a box that I want to use for a speaker project.
I will use two sets of driver+tweeter parallel, but the box is too small to have separate enclosures inside for each drivercombo.
So I would have a 10" driver , 1" tweeter, 5" driver, and another tweeter (different than the other tweeter) in a same enclosure.
I guess at least the tuning would be very difficult for this kind of setup.
Any other adverse effects?
I will use two sets of driver+tweeter parallel, but the box is too small to have separate enclosures inside for each drivercombo.
So I would have a 10" driver , 1" tweeter, 5" driver, and another tweeter (different than the other tweeter) in a same enclosure.
I guess at least the tuning would be very difficult for this kind of setup.
Any other adverse effects?
(And) Do (n't) you have cheese?
That's good for an omelet...
Follow others plans (like picowallspeaker) for now, if you don't want to lose your ('s and other people's) time. People that don't know, should ask first before they DO, that's what it's irritating. That's not personal, IT'S FOR EVERYBODY.
NOW YOU HAVE 2 PROBLEMS THE FIRST AND THE SECOND, and Im going to put you in 'Summer Camp'😀
That's good for an omelet...
Follow others plans (like picowallspeaker) for now, if you don't want to lose your ('s and other people's) time. People that don't know, should ask first before they DO, that's what it's irritating. That's not personal, IT'S FOR EVERYBODY.
NOW YOU HAVE 2 PROBLEMS THE FIRST AND THE SECOND, and Im going to put you in 'Summer Camp'😀
I don't have an option for the box choice. I know this is not wise, but it's have to be like this.
I just want to know what kind of problems to expect.
I just want to know what kind of problems to expect.
That's quick!
And you can look at the images ,also!
talking about my drawings , the first allows you to go towards the OB way of thinking , so the pros would be ASTONISHING speed and power , the cons that you should use two amplifiers ( contradiction.. this is a pro !)each for each speaker , driving it to its maximum performances and get rid of all the parameters .
The second requires toughful thinking of how to build a double chambered reflex (?!)to give adequate mass loading for the woofer - which I presume is the 10'' unit,right?
If you're a real man ,pick your saw and build ! Try to avoid parallel parts in the cabinet , I've read that somewhere...
And you can look at the images ,also!
talking about my drawings , the first allows you to go towards the OB way of thinking , so the pros would be ASTONISHING speed and power , the cons that you should use two amplifiers ( contradiction.. this is a pro !)each for each speaker , driving it to its maximum performances and get rid of all the parameters .
The second requires toughful thinking of how to build a double chambered reflex (?!)to give adequate mass loading for the woofer - which I presume is the 10'' unit,right?
If you're a real man ,pick your saw and build ! Try to avoid parallel parts in the cabinet , I've read that somewhere...
Inductor you are in my ignore list !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You and your friend , cap !!!!
Got that ?
Yes , why not ? For saving space and keep it fully OB ( well ,the space saved from the cabinet should be tempered by adequate positioning ... ) my solution is to equalize the bass response before the amplifier and use no network at power level.
You and your friend , cap !!!!
Got that ?
Yes , why not ? For saving space and keep it fully OB ( well ,the space saved from the cabinet should be tempered by adequate positioning ... ) my solution is to equalize the bass response before the amplifier and use no network at power level.
This thing has to have two sets of speakers parallel (2x8 ohm to 4 ohm) to get enough power from the amplifier. The box is chosen already because of it's appearance.
But still...
Guys, you're giving me solutions, but not exactly answers. I can only do minor chances to the plan, so I doubt anything big can be done.
But I still want to know what kind of problems there will be, and is there anything I can do to avoid or ease these problems.
But still...
Guys, you're giving me solutions, but not exactly answers. I can only do minor chances to the plan, so I doubt anything big can be done.
But I still want to know what kind of problems there will be, and is there anything I can do to avoid or ease these problems.
Gaichuke,
For a good comprehensive answer, besides looks, people need all the detailed specs from your speakers. Ok, let's start somewhere, first the two woofers can not be in the same box (in contact) with out being isolated, or the 5" has an independent closed box?
For a good comprehensive answer, besides looks, people need all the detailed specs from your speakers. Ok, let's start somewhere, first the two woofers can not be in the same box (in contact) with out being isolated, or the 5" has an independent closed box?
Gaichuke said:
Yes, there you go.
If for a brand name and model (and T/S parameters, frequency response...) we can start guessing what you need or CAN do. Keep it simple.
two different drivers in one box:
http://www.fortunecity.com/rivendell/xentar/1179/theory/dddllqd/dddllqd.html
http://www.fortunecity.com/rivendell/xentar/1179/theory/dddllqd/dddllqd.html
For the 10" driver:
http://www.ljudia.fi/Archive/ProductFiles/211067_FI/HP-10W - Tiedot (Englanti).pdf
For the 5" driver I can only find these details:
Qts: 0.41
Vas: 10,6 l
Fs: 56,1 Hz
SPL: 90 db
50-6000Hz
http://www.ljudia.fi/Archive/ProductFiles/211067_FI/HP-10W - Tiedot (Englanti).pdf
For the 5" driver I can only find these details:
Qts: 0.41
Vas: 10,6 l
Fs: 56,1 Hz
SPL: 90 db
50-6000Hz
Gaichuke said:
(Please, refer to better www connections)
Can you "print" manufacturers and models for reference (tweeters included).
Let's assume then, you don't give to much details besides having to measure all speakers, what you can do...
The woofer look's good for all freq flat up to high frequency (Midbass). You can connect it without a xover testing it's sound in the main frequency band. I assume you have a box (Liters?).
If in a small box (and in room) it will need probably 1 inductor later. For the tweeter (assuming they are 8 ohm) make a 3/4K xover either 1/2.order. Then buy a variable L-pad for adjusting the right level. Now for you to choose next move...
Taking DAMIC idea I guess the compound speaker have a double box inside...
Also make sure what 10" speaker you have, either a 4 or 8 ohm. The same for all the others.
Assuming you have 90+ (dB) sensitivity tweeters...
The woofer look's good for all freq flat up to high frequency (Midbass). You can connect it without a xover testing it's sound in the main frequency band. I assume you have a box (Liters?).
If in a small box (and in room) it will need probably 1 inductor later. For the tweeter (assuming they are 8 ohm) make a 3/4K xover either 1/2.order. Then buy a variable L-pad for adjusting the right level. Now for you to choose next move...
Taking DAMIC idea I guess the compound speaker have a double box inside...
Also make sure what 10" speaker you have, either a 4 or 8 ohm. The same for all the others.
Assuming you have 90+ (dB) sensitivity tweeters...
IF the two dissimilar drivers share the same enclosed space (box) you have a major problem.
IF the two dissimilar drivers share the connection (xover or direct to amp) you have a major problem.
IF the two dissimilar drivers share the same un-enclosed space (OB) you have a major problem. (maybe a little less than with a box).
You will get impedance, freq resp and polar response interactions. The worst problem is that at some difficult to predict frequency (ies) one driver may "hog" the power - and fry.
Having said all that there is one major speaker manufacturer that does precisely this - and sells quite alot - and gets away with it. It is still not good practice, even though he does it and gets a lot of money for his product.
The other thing is that if the enclosures are not properly sized for the T/S parameters of the drivers, using two drivers will make it worse. So, there must be enough space/size/volume or you have a big problem to start off. Adding larger or more drivers is usually not a solution or cure for anything. Actually a smaller driver will often work better than the larger one given a fixed size enclosure or baffle...
_-_-bear
PS. paralleled identical drivers will get you an increase in sensitivity, and also cause the amplifier to increase its power delivered for a given input signal level - but, that's not a great basis for a design if you are only thinking of getting "more power" from an amplifier! First off, high power amps are plentiful and cheap today, secondly most speakers are playing at normal listening levels with 1 to 8 watts average power at their terminals, third high SPL speakers are a different and discrete design class that presumes the ability to do a sucessful "normal" design properly. Just a few thoughts to ponder...
IF the two dissimilar drivers share the connection (xover or direct to amp) you have a major problem.
IF the two dissimilar drivers share the same un-enclosed space (OB) you have a major problem. (maybe a little less than with a box).
You will get impedance, freq resp and polar response interactions. The worst problem is that at some difficult to predict frequency (ies) one driver may "hog" the power - and fry.
Having said all that there is one major speaker manufacturer that does precisely this - and sells quite alot - and gets away with it. It is still not good practice, even though he does it and gets a lot of money for his product.
The other thing is that if the enclosures are not properly sized for the T/S parameters of the drivers, using two drivers will make it worse. So, there must be enough space/size/volume or you have a big problem to start off. Adding larger or more drivers is usually not a solution or cure for anything. Actually a smaller driver will often work better than the larger one given a fixed size enclosure or baffle...
_-_-bear
PS. paralleled identical drivers will get you an increase in sensitivity, and also cause the amplifier to increase its power delivered for a given input signal level - but, that's not a great basis for a design if you are only thinking of getting "more power" from an amplifier! First off, high power amps are plentiful and cheap today, secondly most speakers are playing at normal listening levels with 1 to 8 watts average power at their terminals, third high SPL speakers are a different and discrete design class that presumes the ability to do a sucessful "normal" design properly. Just a few thoughts to ponder...
I think there is a simple solution to this set up as your parameters are pretty tight. The enclosure must be used as is, no mods and must hold all 4 of the drivers. The drivers have already been purchased and are the ones that must be used.
Do you have an option with the amplifier? Tri or Quad amping so each driver has its own amp would give you better control and no passive components to deal with.
You should just put it all together and then see what you need to do to correct all of the design flaws as you really have no choice to change anything now, all parameters are set.
Do you have an option with the amplifier? Tri or Quad amping so each driver has its own amp would give you better control and no passive components to deal with.
You should just put it all together and then see what you need to do to correct all of the design flaws as you really have no choice to change anything now, all parameters are set.
901Fixer said:
From what you write I can say you are deadly wrong.
Needless to say; making me going to repeat (Gaichuke) myself, he (Gaichuke) doesn't have to (use all of them) he would like to... (about using all speakers in same box) what is a bad idea to start with, unless having a good plan that is not the case. Or maybe I am far-fetched.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.