Hi all,
Simple question here. Would two 15amp SPDT side by side SPST switches wired in parallel with their toggles taped together be safe/acceptable for a 30amp load? I have 30amp and 20 amp AC shore power options on my RV and I want to institute some kind of solution that will not allow power to be fed by both lines at once. A SPDT switch in the hot line seemed like the easiest solution, but finding a 30amp 120v single SPDT switch is proving to be difficult and costly. 15amp switches can be had for less than $10. Am I completely off base in my thinking here?
Thanks for any help!
Simple question here. Would two 15amp SPDT side by side SPST switches wired in parallel with their toggles taped together be safe/acceptable for a 30amp load? I have 30amp and 20 amp AC shore power options on my RV and I want to institute some kind of solution that will not allow power to be fed by both lines at once. A SPDT switch in the hot line seemed like the easiest solution, but finding a 30amp 120v single SPDT switch is proving to be difficult and costly. 15amp switches can be had for less than $10. Am I completely off base in my thinking here?
Thanks for any help!
Problem is that the contacts of two parallel switches will never open and close simultaneously... so its a non starter really. What about a shower switch ? They can make/break around 40 amps.
Gotcha. What if there was no load on the switches when the switch was made. In other words, could the contacts themselves handle the current once the switch was already flipped?
Thanks for the lead! I've never heard of a shower switch. Is there a SPDT shower switch? Any other suggestions would definitely be appreciated!
Thanks for the lead! I've never heard of a shower switch. Is there a SPDT shower switch? Any other suggestions would definitely be appreciated!
This is a typical pull cord shower switch,
17045 - PRO ELEC - SWITCH CEILING PULL CORD | CPC From This Range
If the two switched were on before current flows then yes, they would be OK. Not an ideal situation really.
Cooker switch. They are DP,
4500/3 - CRABTREE - 45 AMP LARGE PLATE SWITCH | CPC From This Range
17045 - PRO ELEC - SWITCH CEILING PULL CORD | CPC From This Range
If the two switched were on before current flows then yes, they would be OK. Not an ideal situation really.
Cooker switch. They are DP,
4500/3 - CRABTREE - 45 AMP LARGE PLATE SWITCH | CPC From This Range
High current is not cheap:
SWITCH TOGGLE DPDT 50A 125V
Invalid Request
From Hubbell:
https://ontario.nedco.ca/spec-grade...itch-sp-30a-120-277v-brown/product/HUBHBL3031
Local electrical supply should be able to find one like that.
Beyond that you could use a contactor (relay) and buy a smaller switch.
🙂
SWITCH TOGGLE DPDT 50A 125V
Invalid Request
From Hubbell:
https://ontario.nedco.ca/spec-grade...itch-sp-30a-120-277v-brown/product/HUBHBL3031
Local electrical supply should be able to find one like that.
Beyond that you could use a contactor (relay) and buy a smaller switch.
🙂
hello, in theory it will work, in practice it is just not a good idea.
many things can go wrong🙁
such as, what if one switch breaks? then you have 30 amps going through a 15 amp switch.
fire hazard.
many things can go wrong🙁
such as, what if one switch breaks? then you have 30 amps going through a 15 amp switch.
fire hazard.
hello, forgot to say, it voids any insurance if you do that.
insurance companies are always looking for and excuse not to pay.
it saves them money. even if the switch has nothing to do with the insurance claim.
insurance companies are always looking for and excuse not to pay.
it saves them money. even if the switch has nothing to do with the insurance claim.
And if it is this much of a concern, perhaps consider switching it with a heavy triac or even a contactor/relay?
Also because the ON resistance will never be exactly equal, one will draw more current than the other; not a 50-50 split.
Unless you place say 0.5 ohms in series with each.
Jan
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