Solve said:
It is technically possible, but the results would not be ideal. It not really designed for filters lower than say fs/2.
Cheers!
Russ
I would not exceed 15V supplies as things would start to run very very hot.
12V batteries would work nicely, and I see no reason not to try them.
You could even use a 6V battery for VD. Just don't exceed 7.5V or so or the 1.2V regulator will get pretty hot. 4.5-5V would be more ideal.
Cheers!
Russ
12V batteries would work nicely, and I see no reason not to try them.
You could even use a 6V battery for VD. Just don't exceed 7.5V or so or the 1.2V regulator will get pretty hot. 4.5-5V would be more ideal.
Cheers!
Russ
Seems like my package is 'stuck' in customs.
I read elsewhere on the web that I might expect a letter to send them the original invoice so they can determine the tax rate; but this depends on the kind of documentation that came along with it.
Have other packages been sent to Holland, or maybe shipments of other kits?
I read elsewhere on the web that I might expect a letter to send them the original invoice so they can determine the tax rate; but this depends on the kind of documentation that came along with it.
Have other packages been sent to Holland, or maybe shipments of other kits?
I know that batteries have a certain audiophile reputation. However, be aware that their output impedance is generally quite a bit higher than what you can achieve with a conventional supply and a good regulator. It also varies, depending on the charging status. The noise is usually also higher. In other words, you still need a good regulator.
To utilize the potential advantages of a battery supply, you should switch off all AC circuitry when the DAC is in use, and automatically charge the battery when the DAC is not in use. This way the battery would supply power for both the analog and digital sections, no static or magnetic ac-strayfields would be present. Depending on the battery, you should get a couple of hours playtime, before a recharge would be required. I have seen this concept realized in the DAC of a german supplier. Using batteries only for the analog section is, in my opinion, a halfway solution.
Kurt
Javin5 said:
Paralleling batteries is said to result in higher current/lower impedance & lower noise!
Slarti,
Here's a guy who uses batteries on the old Buffalo board http://theartofsound.net/forum/showpost.php?p=42530&postcount=48
Layout of my 32S
Here it is, with latest mods:
1. Analog & digital earths joined.
2. Output tracks cut to enable 22 ohm resistors.
Box is diecast aluminium from Altronics (kit electronics supplier here in Melbourne)
http://web.mac.com/strideg/iWeb/Site/Photos.html
Here it is, with latest mods:
1. Analog & digital earths joined.
2. Output tracks cut to enable 22 ohm resistors.
Box is diecast aluminium from Altronics (kit electronics supplier here in Melbourne)
http://web.mac.com/strideg/iWeb/Site/Photos.html
Is a PreAmp Needed with 32S?
I'm in process of building a single-ended cathode follower stereo 3 w/ch amp from Transcendent Sound (pp using downloaded plans). I also received a 32S from the last buy and am putting it together. I've noticed that some of you are running directly from your computer to the 32S and then to a stereo (or two mono bloc) SE power amp(s) without the use of a preamp.
Could anyone share whether a preamp would be needed. I have no interest in any other music source than my Mac Mini so 1 input is all that I need. I'll be connecting via optical output on the Mac to Toslink on the 32S. My speakers are 94db single driver Fostex 166E. If I add a volumite to the 32S, would that be adequate to control volume and avoid the need for a separate preamp? One limitation might be the standard pot on the volumite?
If going without a preamp works, wouldn't then adding a passive transformer attenuator take the volumite to a higher quality level? Here's a link to a reasonably priced entry level passive preamp that might work:
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/?q=catalog/41/doitboxavcpreamplifier&sort=asc&order=Price
Am I heading in the right direction or am I missing something here?
I'm in process of building a single-ended cathode follower stereo 3 w/ch amp from Transcendent Sound (pp using downloaded plans). I also received a 32S from the last buy and am putting it together. I've noticed that some of you are running directly from your computer to the 32S and then to a stereo (or two mono bloc) SE power amp(s) without the use of a preamp.
Could anyone share whether a preamp would be needed. I have no interest in any other music source than my Mac Mini so 1 input is all that I need. I'll be connecting via optical output on the Mac to Toslink on the 32S. My speakers are 94db single driver Fostex 166E. If I add a volumite to the 32S, would that be adequate to control volume and avoid the need for a separate preamp? One limitation might be the standard pot on the volumite?
If going without a preamp works, wouldn't then adding a passive transformer attenuator take the volumite to a higher quality level? Here's a link to a reasonably priced entry level passive preamp that might work:
http://www.diyhifisupply.com/?q=catalog/41/doitboxavcpreamplifier&sort=asc&order=Price
Am I heading in the right direction or am I missing something here?
Re: Is a PreAmp Needed with 32S?
Hi secretriches, I guess it depends on how loud you want, your speaker sensitivity, the power output of your amp and its' input sensitivity, but you can alter the Buffalo32s's output level to match (see new manual).
I use a MacMini via optical straight into a Buffalo32s and Volumite into some Welborne 300B Power Amps (7w). I use single driver (no crossover) Beauhorn B2 2.3's horn speakers, about 97dB I think. It's fine in my relatively small listening room and goes loud enough for me, but perhaps not for my teenage son. I think my Welborne's have an input sensitivity of 1.5v and the Buff32s in standard from output 2v in SE?
I think the Volumite is an extremely good volume control, (don't worry about the actual pot quality - it is digital - all the volume control is done in the dac - it is just the interface) and I cannot really fault it in terms of sound quality and I expect the new remote AC1 thingy will be equally as good. I doubt it will be bettered by much else, different perhaps...
Try it and see is a good moto, you could well save yourself some money ;-)
The only problem with the MacMini as a source is it only really does 48/24 out of the optical into a Buffalo32s. It pops and clicks and loses lock on 96/24. Bit of a shame really, but there you go. It does this on both our MacMini's but is fine at 96/24 on our two MacBooks, a old PPC iMac G5 and a new iMac in to the Buff32s. The old Buffalo was the same. Oddly other DAC's work at 96/24 on the end of a MacMini. (Also see the TP thread on this...)
I am open to any suggestions for a solution to this problem as I guess many others will be. As apart form this the MacMini makes an excellent music/video player, OK, with an larger external drive and perhaps a remote via a iPod Touch/iPhone ;-)
Hope this helps?
[EDIT]
Some have suggested using the MUX between the TOSLINK and DAC, I have one but have not yet been able to try it. Not sure if it will make much difference, has anyone had success using this option?
secretriches said:
Hi secretriches, I guess it depends on how loud you want, your speaker sensitivity, the power output of your amp and its' input sensitivity, but you can alter the Buffalo32s's output level to match (see new manual).
I use a MacMini via optical straight into a Buffalo32s and Volumite into some Welborne 300B Power Amps (7w). I use single driver (no crossover) Beauhorn B2 2.3's horn speakers, about 97dB I think. It's fine in my relatively small listening room and goes loud enough for me, but perhaps not for my teenage son. I think my Welborne's have an input sensitivity of 1.5v and the Buff32s in standard from output 2v in SE?
I think the Volumite is an extremely good volume control, (don't worry about the actual pot quality - it is digital - all the volume control is done in the dac - it is just the interface) and I cannot really fault it in terms of sound quality and I expect the new remote AC1 thingy will be equally as good. I doubt it will be bettered by much else, different perhaps...
Try it and see is a good moto, you could well save yourself some money ;-)
The only problem with the MacMini as a source is it only really does 48/24 out of the optical into a Buffalo32s. It pops and clicks and loses lock on 96/24. Bit of a shame really, but there you go. It does this on both our MacMini's but is fine at 96/24 on our two MacBooks, a old PPC iMac G5 and a new iMac in to the Buff32s. The old Buffalo was the same. Oddly other DAC's work at 96/24 on the end of a MacMini. (Also see the TP thread on this...)
I am open to any suggestions for a solution to this problem as I guess many others will be. As apart form this the MacMini makes an excellent music/video player, OK, with an larger external drive and perhaps a remote via a iPod Touch/iPhone ;-)
Hope this helps?
[EDIT]
Some have suggested using the MUX between the TOSLINK and DAC, I have one but have not yet been able to try it. Not sure if it will make much difference, has anyone had success using this option?
rj,
Thank you for all of you good info. Yes, I will try the Volumite Controller and might consider the Joshua Tree Attenuator to go along with it. If that "front end" doesn't work well enough then I'll move to a regular preamp.
Its unfortunate about the locking on a Mac Mini. The Mini is an ideal music server particularly because of the small size and ease of use with iTunes. Does anyone have a solution? My equipment is currently being built and I can't offer much at the present time.
Thank you for all of you good info. Yes, I will try the Volumite Controller and might consider the Joshua Tree Attenuator to go along with it. If that "front end" doesn't work well enough then I'll move to a regular preamp.
Its unfortunate about the locking on a Mac Mini. The Mini is an ideal music server particularly because of the small size and ease of use with iTunes. Does anyone have a solution? My equipment is currently being built and I can't offer much at the present time.
Would the use of a USB -> PCM/SPDIF converter not solve the issue?
With Apple lossless CD-rips I personally find the USB connection quite superior to the Toslink.
Nic
With Apple lossless CD-rips I personally find the USB connection quite superior to the Toslink.
Nic
I also go directly from the DAC to a set of PrimaLuna Prolouge six tube amps. It works prefectly with the voumite. the amps have an input voltage setting on 911mV so I can set the DAC to use 1V out. It is almost a digital preamp when you get the mux and have 4 sources available...
Thanks for the idea Nick, but with the current TP implementation of the USB to I2s board you still only get 44 or 48/24bit, not 96/24. I've also tried using an M-Audio convertor, but felt it messed with the sound in a way I did not like. Were you thinking of some other adapter / converter?NicMac said:
As for the sound, in the past I have found I've preferred Mac optical to USB, but I will wire in the TP USB again and take the I2S out into the Buffalo32s to give it a go. I may even supply the board with a clean 5v rather than the one from the USB if I get chance.
Somewhere in the forums I've seen tapping the I2S signals of an M-Audio Transport to get 24/96. That should be a good interim solutions until USB2/3 solutions arrive
BrianDonegan said:
Thanks! The manual pretty much cleared the situation with the groundings and enabling the output resistors. Especially when I could see the L1 and L2 pads in the Thumb Buster part of the document.
Since i am going to connect the dac to NAD M3 (via balanced XLR) i need to enable the output resistor. Is a carpet knife good tool for the cutting?
3lviz said:
It should be fine if you are careful.
I use a hobby knife, but any sharp blade should work fine.
You can check if you cut was effective by measuring the resistance across R51-R54. If you get 0V then you need to cut a bit better. If you get 21ohms then your all set. 🙂
Remember for driving low impedance headphones directly it's usually better to leave the traces uncut. For Headphone with an impedance >= 300ohms you can go either way.
Cheers!
Russ
Roaming Buffalo now at home
My Buffalo and psu kits arrived after a little detour round the States - first impression is - Wow - why do other kit producers not send their kits like this - everything labelled and beautifully boxed.
Impressed!
First psu already built.
A question about volumite - at the moment I am using a LightSpeed Attenuator and this is what the Buffalo will be feeding. However I saw that the DAC output can be adjusted using the Volumite - does this in anyway reduce the accuracy of the Buffalo (i.e. drop bits)?
Alan
My Buffalo and psu kits arrived after a little detour round the States - first impression is - Wow - why do other kit producers not send their kits like this - everything labelled and beautifully boxed.
Impressed!
First psu already built.
A question about volumite - at the moment I am using a LightSpeed Attenuator and this is what the Buffalo will be feeding. However I saw that the DAC output can be adjusted using the Volumite - does this in anyway reduce the accuracy of the Buffalo (i.e. drop bits)?
Alan
Re: Roaming Buffalo now at home
Brian rocks. 🙂 Thanks for the kind words.
You will lose less DNR using the Volumite than going through the attenuator and distortion will be less too. Channel matching will be much better.
Cheers!
Russ
AlanElsdon said:
Brian rocks. 🙂 Thanks for the kind words.
You will lose less DNR using the Volumite than going through the attenuator and distortion will be less too. Channel matching will be much better.
Cheers!
Russ
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