Halo from Indonesia
I can have a great clearance price on faital pro midrange m5n8 and couple of other faital drivers at my local shop. As they will stop to carry the brand altogether.
The m5n8 is rated 99db sensitivity on their website. Do I need to pair them with higher sensitivity tweeter >> compression driver?
I already have on hand is scanspeak d3004-660000. Will I have trouble pairing the m5n8 with the scanspeak?
I plan to build a 3 way , I was eyeing 12 inch bass driver faital 12pr310 from the same shop.
This will be my first time with PA driver.
I can have a great clearance price on faital pro midrange m5n8 and couple of other faital drivers at my local shop. As they will stop to carry the brand altogether.
The m5n8 is rated 99db sensitivity on their website. Do I need to pair them with higher sensitivity tweeter >> compression driver?
I already have on hand is scanspeak d3004-660000. Will I have trouble pairing the m5n8 with the scanspeak?
I plan to build a 3 way , I was eyeing 12 inch bass driver faital 12pr310 from the same shop.
This will be my first time with PA driver.
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Usually the "weakest" driver is the woofer, as it has to cope with the baffle step effect. Your chosen woofer is a 99dB one, so after some baffle step compensation it will be in the 94-95db ballpark. The mid and the tweeter have to be more sensitive than that, and the 6600 is not, so it is not suitable.
But this kind of question makes me wonder if you have the necessary skill to properly design a crossover.
Ralf
But this kind of question makes me wonder if you have the necessary skill to properly design a crossover.
Ralf
Read the OSMC thread here with the Faital 12pr320 which is close enough. You will see you need nearer 89 to 90 db at 2.8V fot the mid and tweeter. Around 93 dB if you see Faital 3wc from T Gravsen or Andromeda Nova from Humblehomemadehifi.
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You can "pad" the mid down with resistance in a passive crossover.. BUT it tends to sound not so good.Do I need to pair them with higher sensitivity tweeter >> compression driver?
HOWEVER,
You can do an active crossover just fine with different sensitivity drivers (..and the typical suggestion here is miniDSP) with extra amplification.
I got friend whom very good at crossover. Last year he helped me with the crossover in the bookshelf speaker I gave for my wife as birthday present. That ended up on the kitchen ☺️
Currently I am running dsp on the scanspeak tower + peerless bass unit. But on this faital project want to keep things simple with a passive crossover. And I am not feeling to build another 6 Channels amp. Going active is reserved for plan B or C if any other possibilities changes along the way
Currently I am running dsp on the scanspeak tower + peerless bass unit. But on this faital project want to keep things simple with a passive crossover. And I am not feeling to build another 6 Channels amp. Going active is reserved for plan B or C if any other possibilities changes along the way
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Within my budget range on the clearance, there is hf109 and sth100 - wg101It will would be easier to mate with a horn. Perhaps Faital compression drivers are on sale tio.
Very well regarded Hf108 / hf10ak has been sold out
I can't find any thoughts/review on the hf109 tough.
If you do decide to use resistors to pad down your drivers use the mundorf 30watt ultra foil type and you will be pleased nothing else compares.good luck.
I got friend whom very good at crossover. Last year he helped me with the crossover in the bookshelf speaker I gave for my wife as birthday present. That ended up on the kitchen ☺️
Currently I am running dsp on the scanspeak tower + peerless bass unit. But on this faital project want to keep things simple with a passive crossover. And I am not feeling to build another 6 Channels amp. Going active is reserved for plan B or C if any other possibilities changes along the way
Ok, passive then.
Given the smaller diameter of the mid..
I'd be looking at near 100db Mundorf or Beyma AMT that will go down to around 1.5 kHz with a steep high-pass.
Not cheap though.

I would avoid a waveguide/horn design (regardless of driver-type) UNLESS you also use a waveguide for the mid..
BTW, good passive crossover's are usually anything but simple. 😉
Also, the low-end to mid. will probably be more difficult - so much so that I can only think of a few solutions that might work (at least in a moderate form factor). Notably 2x (per loudspeaker) faital pro 12PR320 16 ohms in parallel. Also not cheap.
The might be largely identical, judging from the published fr and other specs.Within my budget range on the clearance, there is hf109 and sth100 - wg101
Very well regarded Hf108 / hf10ak has been sold out
I can't find any thoughts/review on the hf109 tough.
Yesterday i stopped by on the said shop and browsed through their shelfs, for over twice the price (no discounts) the have B&C 5fg44 that on paper is on 92db sensitivity and can reach lower.
I have put down payment on the bass unit that is faital 12pr310.
Still cant decide on the midrange and tweeter.
If i go for the B&C, i can save for the tweeter that i already have (scanspeak d66000)
Or i take the faital that is far cheaper but have to shove more money on the high sensitivity tweeter (compression driver + waveguide)
I have put down payment on the bass unit that is faital 12pr310.
Still cant decide on the midrange and tweeter.
If i go for the B&C, i can save for the tweeter that i already have (scanspeak d66000)
Or i take the faital that is far cheaper but have to shove more money on the high sensitivity tweeter (compression driver + waveguide)
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Unfortunately, i cant find local dealer that carry beyma / mundorf / raal. Its also prohibitively expensive for my budget.Ok, passive then.
Given the smaller diameter of the mid..
I'd be looking at near 100db Mundorf or Beyma AMT that will go down to around 1.5 kHz with a steep high-pass.
Not cheap though.
I would avoid a waveguide/horn design (regardless of driver-type) UNLESS you also use a waveguide for the mid..
BTW, good passive crossover's are usually anything but simple. 😉
Also, the low-end to mid. will probably be more difficult - so much so that I can only think of a few solutions that might work (at least in a moderate form factor). Notably 2x (per loudspeaker) faital pro 12PR320 16 ohms in parallel. Also not cheap.
I can see some of dealers offering some obscure chinese brand amt tweeter though.
They don't have any 6rs140Try to pick the 6rs140. Will work ok with the 6600.
But I saw faital w6n8 / 6pr122 amongst the clearance.
I will try to keep the midrange 5 inch at the moment, trying to copy the looks of jbl l100 😅
But i am open for 6 inch midrange if it's the best possible solution.
I still can't post a picture in this forum 😥
OK you are "flexible" then - that's a good thing. 🙂Yesterday i stopped by on the said shop and browsed through their shelfs, for over twice the price (no discounts) the have B&C 5fg44 that on paper is on 92db sensitivity and can reach lower.
I have put down payment on the bass unit that is faital 12pr310.
Still cant decide on the midrange and tweeter.
If i go for the B&C, i can save for the tweeter that i already have (scanspeak d66000)
Or i take the faital that is far cheaper but have to shove more money on the high sensitivity tweeter (compression driver + waveguide)
With the d66000 I might try the newer:
https://en.toutlehautparleur.com/speaker-audax-hm100pz0-8-ohm-4-33-x-4-33-inch.html
(but the eff. is still off because the d66000 is only 4 ohms where the audax mid. is 8 - though if you have a *low output impedance amplifier then that's a fairly moot point.)
*typical solid-state amp.
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