that would depend on what limit you want to use for your tweeter/ horn for protection.
typically 12v 20watt lamps are used.
if the bulbs where blown and your tweeters where still working there is something wrong with the crossover or wiring.
lamp limiters are typically in series with the driver.
typically 12v 20watt lamps are used.
if the bulbs where blown and your tweeters where still working there is something wrong with the crossover or wiring.
lamp limiters are typically in series with the driver.
Post 9 bottom diagram...... the lamp is across a 20ohm resistor that's in series with the tweeter .
ah ok i see that.
that would defeat the purpose of using the lamp and the cold resistance of the lamp in parallel with the 20 ohm resistor would defeat the level reduction that the resistor should produce.
if the level of the tweeter was still "screaming loud" with the lamps blown it's still a case of levels needing to be matched before any form of protection or limiting is employed.
that would defeat the purpose of using the lamp and the cold resistance of the lamp in parallel with the 20 ohm resistor would defeat the level reduction that the resistor should produce.
if the level of the tweeter was still "screaming loud" with the lamps blown it's still a case of levels needing to be matched before any form of protection or limiting is employed.
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ie: Blueran Safety Bulb for Crossovers
Now diy1995 ( time to embrace the "diy" part of your name, meaning ) Google is your best friend.
🙂
Well, I pushed speakers to the max with my zeck pt7 amplifier (rated 2 x 450w @8ohm), speakers did it good, clear sound, no distortion, woofers wasn`t reaching xmax, magnets weren`t hot... So I want bulb to handle that load...
Amplifier power is rated with 1khz sine wave, THD <1% both channels driven, is this peak power?
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Try a 12V 20W and see how brightly it lights up , you may need to put 2 in parallel . " EalK " link suggests 12V 20W is the norm .
A single 12V 20W bulb will be normal brightness when supplying 22W to the tweeter . 2 x 12V 20W in parallel will be norm brightness when supplying 88W to the tweeter .
A single 12V 20W bulb will be normal brightness when supplying 22W to the tweeter . 2 x 12V 20W in parallel will be norm brightness when supplying 88W to the tweeter .
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once you have the levels matched between tweeter and woofer you may not even need the lamp.
i would include it for driver protection because feedback is the "tweeter killer" your trying to avoid in this case. under normal operating conditions the lamp will not light up until the current limit your establishing is exceeded and starts to drop voltage across the lamp.
on higher power level situations i've used 24v 10w lamps for fast acting limits.
i would include it for driver protection because feedback is the "tweeter killer" your trying to avoid in this case. under normal operating conditions the lamp will not light up until the current limit your establishing is exceeded and starts to drop voltage across the lamp.
on higher power level situations i've used 24v 10w lamps for fast acting limits.
Well, if tweeters were good on full volume with a half attenuation of what I will put together now, then I don`t need it, my amp also has protection from dc on the output and clipping limiter. So I think that I`m safe without the bulb.
so long as you never encounter feedback.
feedback can happen well before a clip limiter threshold is reached.
i would only feel safe without a lamp if i where using the speakers for "reproduction only".
feedback can happen well before a clip limiter threshold is reached.
i would only feel safe without a lamp if i where using the speakers for "reproduction only".
Is feedback that high pitch noise that can happen when using microphone? If so it won`t be a problem, because I will use speakers only for music.
So I recieved resistors today and made the modification. There is still alot of highs, but sound is alot more natural. I would say that speakers are loud about the same, it just removed the unwanted "spikes", for example like when you reach distortion and than you back off a bit, it`s about the same loudness, but it sounds much better 🙂 It`s sounds really nice now. Thank you all for help 🙂
glad to hear you got better results!
care to share the details of what you did so others can learn from it?
care to share the details of what you did so others can learn from it?
Yes of course, it is all in the thread, but I will make the post, so others don`t have to search. 🙂
So I ended with bypassing the fuse (because it was blown), I made L-pad (one 5.6ohm resistor across the tweeter and one in series with the tweeter), capacitors in the crossover are 7uF and 3.3uF in series (that makes one 2.2uF).
Problem was here because of the tweeter with 114dB efficiency and hi-fi woofer with only 90dB efficiency.
Problem was here because of the tweeter with 114dB efficiency and hi-fi woofer with only 90dB efficiency.
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