As I start to work out a crossover upgrade for my ER18RNX/27TDFC, I've been considering cap upgrades for the tweeter and this looks interesting.
The speaker is good, the 27TDFC is good (way better than its price point might suggest), so a good cap e.g. alumen Z cap looks appropriate.
But what about a Jantzen Amber Zcap? Results could be spectacular.
But the cost of that cap would buy a better tweeter such as SEAS Crescendo, which Troels likes a whole lot and would appear to be usefully better than the 27TDFC.
So it make me wonder, if spending one way or the other, which mix would be best;
27TFC and Amber Z cap
Crescendo and a more basic cap like Claritycap CMR
All very theoretical but perhaps an interesting poser?
The speaker is good, the 27TDFC is good (way better than its price point might suggest), so a good cap e.g. alumen Z cap looks appropriate.
But what about a Jantzen Amber Zcap? Results could be spectacular.
But the cost of that cap would buy a better tweeter such as SEAS Crescendo, which Troels likes a whole lot and would appear to be usefully better than the 27TDFC.
So it make me wonder, if spending one way or the other, which mix would be best;
27TFC and Amber Z cap
Crescendo and a more basic cap like Claritycap CMR
All very theoretical but perhaps an interesting poser?
Oh well, you should consider all in a speaker
What about inernal connections? What wire? How was the welding job done? Does it add some resistance? How are the Binding posts made ?
And the box, how much sound trasmission and refraction it shows ? Can it tolerate Titanium bolts? Would you mind making the entire cabinet of solid 2" aluminum?
And the best for a crossover is to sit outside the box, well away: that's an improvement. No one says it...
What about inernal connections? What wire? How was the welding job done? Does it add some resistance? How are the Binding posts made ?
And the box, how much sound trasmission and refraction it shows ? Can it tolerate Titanium bolts? Would you mind making the entire cabinet of solid 2" aluminum?
And the best for a crossover is to sit outside the box, well away: that's an improvement. No one says it...
OK, understood; but I think the other factors you mention are OK, though not state of the art.
I was only idly speculating about the tweeter/cap combination.
As for external crossover, I say it and do it. Seems right to keep it away from vibrations, and it's easy to modify.
I was only idly speculating about the tweeter/cap combination.
As for external crossover, I say it and do it. Seems right to keep it away from vibrations, and it's easy to modify.
https://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
I would see what Tony G has to say about it before offering my sacrifice.
I would see what Tony G has to say about it before offering my sacrifice.
Why not try a Clarity CSA, which are reasonably priced. I wouldn't spend too much on a $60 tweeter though.
Your bottleneck is the Tweeter, big time, so better invest in it if you can.
Cap to cap differences are infinitesimal by comparison.
Cap to cap differences are infinitesimal by comparison.
My general impression of single tweeter cap and bass coil solutions to crossovers is they are only fit for the dustbin!
Consider the famous old SEAS Njord:
8" paper bass plus your usual soft-dome SEAS tweeter:
My honest opinion is that Capacitors (NP Electrolytics, MKPs and MKTs) do what it says on the box. Less than 1% distortion. Speaker drivers are far worse. Like 5% at times.
Resistors are measurably accurate.
The worst crossover component is Ferrite Core Coils. The technical term is Hysteresis. Air Coils preferred at every level. But bear in mind that most drivers are Ferrite cored too. So gains are marginal.
My advice, for higher loudness without distortion, is to build a better higher-order crossover using cheap capacitors and your current SEAS ER18RNX and SEAS 27TDFC:
https://ampslab.com/starling.htm
I suspect this design will perform better than the noob designs.
This is clever at so many levels.
Personally, I detest soft-dome tweeters, preferring metal domes:
https://www.seas.no/index.php?optio...fc&catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&Itemid=462
There, I have said it. Hope it helps. 😎
Best Regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
Consider the famous old SEAS Njord:
8" paper bass plus your usual soft-dome SEAS tweeter:
My honest opinion is that Capacitors (NP Electrolytics, MKPs and MKTs) do what it says on the box. Less than 1% distortion. Speaker drivers are far worse. Like 5% at times.
Resistors are measurably accurate.
The worst crossover component is Ferrite Core Coils. The technical term is Hysteresis. Air Coils preferred at every level. But bear in mind that most drivers are Ferrite cored too. So gains are marginal.
My advice, for higher loudness without distortion, is to build a better higher-order crossover using cheap capacitors and your current SEAS ER18RNX and SEAS 27TDFC:
https://ampslab.com/starling.htm
I suspect this design will perform better than the noob designs.
This is clever at so many levels.
Personally, I detest soft-dome tweeters, preferring metal domes:
https://www.seas.no/index.php?optio...fc&catid=45:seas-prestige-tweeters&Itemid=462
There, I have said it. Hope it helps. 😎
Best Regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
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