So i tweaked my pair using MOX resistors and MKP capacitors from Visaton. The crossover is 18db so it has a 8,2uF and after the parallel coil another 12uF cap. The sound after the change is very revealing bit a bit too bright for my taste. I changed the 8,2uF back to a bipolar electroytic and that pushed the whole thing in the right direction. But the whole electrolytic thing stays at the back of your mind.
So, I want to make bipolar electrolytic out of Elna Silmic II
for the 8,2uF I would put
|---[2,2uf]+---+[2,2uF]---|
---|--[22uF]+----+[22uF]----|----
so a series parallel construction with 50V caps ending up with a ~8,3uF bipolar
This should work, but has anyone tried it?
Silmic is a very musical cap and the MKPs can sound harsh with cheap tweeters as in the Diamonds. Since I won't be getting a high end sound anyway, why not try to make it enoyable?
So, I want to make bipolar electrolytic out of Elna Silmic II
for the 8,2uF I would put
|---[2,2uf]+---+[2,2uF]---|
---|--[22uF]+----+[22uF]----|----
so a series parallel construction with 50V caps ending up with a ~8,3uF bipolar
This should work, but has anyone tried it?
Silmic is a very musical cap and the MKPs can sound harsh with cheap tweeters as in the Diamonds. Since I won't be getting a high end sound anyway, why not try to make it enoyable?
All this talk about MUSICAL capacitors is just so much HOEY. You're wasting your time. The reason your MKPs are leaving the speaker sounding harsh is because it IS harsh. 😀
You're hearing cone breakup at about 5kHz from a Kevlar woofer and a (soft dome?) tweeter that is strained and bright from a steep low crossover.
Can't do much about the Kevlar cone breakup without more detail, but the tweeter will be about 2dB lower output and not so pushed at crossover by this circuit. That's where I would go to improve the treble. It'll be a quieter sound.
Might be possible to damp the top and bottom panels by sticking some rubbery stuff on them too.
You're hearing cone breakup at about 5kHz from a Kevlar woofer and a (soft dome?) tweeter that is strained and bright from a steep low crossover.
Can't do much about the Kevlar cone breakup without more detail, but the tweeter will be about 2dB lower output and not so pushed at crossover by this circuit. That's where I would go to improve the treble. It'll be a quieter sound.
Might be possible to damp the top and bottom panels by sticking some rubbery stuff on them too.
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Be aware the electro's are at best +40% , -20% tolerance when new. Moving to films with 5% or less, you may be hearing a shift in the filter, not as much as a difference in quality. You have to measure to find out. The electro's have higher ESR, so that will change the Q as well.
Kind of with System 7 on this one. At least in this range, caps are not the problem. The quality of the drivers is the limiting factor. Warfdale does extremely well at their price point, but if you find them harsh, then the answer is to save up and DIY a set with higher quality drivers as you are blessed/cursed with higher standards.
For caps, the basic Daytons would do you fine. I would hesitate dropping a total new crossover without the ability to measure, listen, measure some more, tweak a bit etc. You could spend more on handfuls of crossover parts than saving up for respected kit or published design. My attempts to make high value speakers move up line just ran into the driver quality limit. You are looking at a $2 tweeter and $5 woofer. (retail, $12 tweeter and $30 woofer) Please don't feel slighted, that is twice what some competitors may have spent. A $10 cap will not make a $2 tweeter sound like a $60 tweeter.
Kind of with System 7 on this one. At least in this range, caps are not the problem. The quality of the drivers is the limiting factor. Warfdale does extremely well at their price point, but if you find them harsh, then the answer is to save up and DIY a set with higher quality drivers as you are blessed/cursed with higher standards.
For caps, the basic Daytons would do you fine. I would hesitate dropping a total new crossover without the ability to measure, listen, measure some more, tweak a bit etc. You could spend more on handfuls of crossover parts than saving up for respected kit or published design. My attempts to make high value speakers move up line just ran into the driver quality limit. You are looking at a $2 tweeter and $5 woofer. (retail, $12 tweeter and $30 woofer) Please don't feel slighted, that is twice what some competitors may have spent. A $10 cap will not make a $2 tweeter sound like a $60 tweeter.
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