With toe-in, I imagine it should be fine. These things throw a big soundstage.
Which channels in the back? You mean externally? I thing That's Fostex's way of trying to brace the rear panel while trying to cram everything for a single box onto 3 sheets of ply. The simple alternative is to just double the thing and have done with it, but you need a 4th sheet of material for that.
Which channels in the back? You mean externally? I thing That's Fostex's way of trying to brace the rear panel while trying to cram everything for a single box onto 3 sheets of ply. The simple alternative is to just double the thing and have done with it, but you need a 4th sheet of material for that.
If you compare both FE206 and FE208ESigma enclosure designs both bracing types were used although in the 206's several flats can also be seen put between the slats. From engineering standpoint slats are more effective. I understand that the channels are there to be used as a guide for wiring(needed ?).
From engineering standpoint slats are more effective
Very true. Just look at the dynamic, moving load and its apparent.
You have a displacement moving along an enclosed volume. The slats have a lever effect at any given point which distributes the load or displacement over a given length/area.
Ribs in any loaded structure is an inexpensive method of increasing the ultimate load capacity of the structure without adding a great deal of mass.
ron
Very true. Just look at the dynamic, moving load and its apparent.
You have a displacement moving along an enclosed volume. The slats have a lever effect at any given point which distributes the load or displacement over a given length/area.
Ribs in any loaded structure is an inexpensive method of increasing the ultimate load capacity of the structure without adding a great deal of mass.
ron
Wixy,
as far as I recall you lately got very strict firearms law in Oz...good for you, because your neighbours will HATE you!
and @ Testarossa...I bet you have got used to sitting in the sweet spot by now; a 20cm driver beams more than a 10cm, that's life. But be honest, amico - a 20cm can KICK!
Pit
as far as I recall you lately got very strict firearms law in Oz...good for you, because your neighbours will HATE you!
and @ Testarossa...I bet you have got used to sitting in the sweet spot by now; a 20cm driver beams more than a 10cm, that's life. But be honest, amico - a 20cm can KICK!
Pityeah
1) First check the all the pieces.
2)Put on the table the side panel, and begin to construct from the top the side panel. From the top to the bottom, because it's easier, and you don't have to check a lot of "piece to piece distance" that you would if you start from the bottom.
3)Check for hole and fissures, remember that very small fissure(max 1mm) can be filled up with the same glue that you use to attach wood( in my case the BINDAN-P glue wich is a mixture of vinilic glue+synthetic resin.Wich it's very fast(30min) if the temperature is good and you don't use liters of glue, but lets you move the pieces without force when it isn't dry. Also the normal vinilic do the job of filling.)
3)If you can use vices. But pay attention because if you don't put well the vice you'll end up with all wrong. Because if you don't put vices well they push the pieces in wrong position.It isn't necessary, but it will help you also to seal fessure because pushing the pieces.I used the vices just to attach the sidepanel to cover the horn and for the top and the bottom and the rear and fron panel.
4) Very important check the angle between pieces with the square.
5)Remember to think before to remove wood in excess, because once you removed it there's no turning back.
6)you don't need 28# and the 29# panel. Just use 4 of 27# panel.
This is what I remember.
1) First check the all the pieces.
2)Put on the table the side panel, and begin to construct from the top the side panel. From the top to the bottom, because it's easier, and you don't have to check a lot of "piece to piece distance" that you would if you start from the bottom.
3)Check for hole and fissures, remember that very small fissure(max 1mm) can be filled up with the same glue that you use to attach wood( in my case the BINDAN-P glue wich is a mixture of vinilic glue+synthetic resin.Wich it's very fast(30min) if the temperature is good and you don't use liters of glue, but lets you move the pieces without force when it isn't dry. Also the normal vinilic do the job of filling.)
3)If you can use vices. But pay attention because if you don't put well the vice you'll end up with all wrong. Because if you don't put vices well they push the pieces in wrong position.It isn't necessary, but it will help you also to seal fessure because pushing the pieces.I used the vices just to attach the sidepanel to cover the horn and for the top and the bottom and the rear and fron panel.
4) Very important check the angle between pieces with the square.
5)Remember to think before to remove wood in excess, because once you removed it there's no turning back.
6)you don't need 28# and the 29# panel. Just use 4 of 27# panel.
This is what I remember.
no screw.
Using screw on plywood it's also not raccomended because it has a lot of wood nodes and you risk to crack it if you put the screw on the side of the panel( it's just 18mm tickness).
If you want really to use screw u need thin's ones and before screwing you need to pierce and then you can screw slowly...(well you should always do like this if you want really straight screw and you don't have hurry...)
I don't want to use screw in this case because:
1)They don't look good
2)They aren't necessary, because this horn is full of reinforcement
3) Vinilic glue it's very strong. Just make sure you use good one, and non toxic....
The only pro point is that if you want to build fast, you could screw a lot of pieces( is impossible screwing everything because you must be a wizard). But the pieces must be perfect to do this.
Using screw on plywood it's also not raccomended because it has a lot of wood nodes and you risk to crack it if you put the screw on the side of the panel( it's just 18mm tickness).
If you want really to use screw u need thin's ones and before screwing you need to pierce and then you can screw slowly...(well you should always do like this if you want really straight screw and you don't have hurry...)
I don't want to use screw in this case because:
1)They don't look good
2)They aren't necessary, because this horn is full of reinforcement
3) Vinilic glue it's very strong. Just make sure you use good one, and non toxic....
The only pro point is that if you want to build fast, you could screw a lot of pieces( is impossible screwing everything because you must be a wizard). But the pieces must be perfect to do this.
I used one time the "Pattex express" vinilic glue. It's a 100% vinilic product, the same as many other.
The glue I used is the BINDAN-P, it's from BINDULIN http://www.bindulin.de/
you should know about it
here it's the italian distributor:
http://www.fercomsrl.it/page19.html
The glue I used is the BINDAN-P, it's from BINDULIN http://www.bindulin.de/
you should know about it
here it's the italian distributor:
http://www.fercomsrl.it/page19.html
Pit- Status
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