>>> It comes from both drivers, which have no obvious damage, although I bought them used (lightly) here on DIY audio with phase plugs installed by someone else. Seems unlikely that any damage would be to both, but possible.
Well, it could be the plugs. Try removing one and see if the noise stops.
Before you do that you can try changing the amp just to see if it is amp related. If the noise is still there then try removing the plugs... if you still hear it then swap out drivers and see if it stops. I can relate to having kids and little time to tinker... but you must remove all the variables to figure this kind of thing out. Good luck.
Zilla
Well, it could be the plugs. Try removing one and see if the noise stops.
Before you do that you can try changing the amp just to see if it is amp related. If the noise is still there then try removing the plugs... if you still hear it then swap out drivers and see if it stops. I can relate to having kids and little time to tinker... but you must remove all the variables to figure this kind of thing out. Good luck.
Zilla
I'd imagine they are magnetized to the magnet by a screw or two... there must be pics online of how they connect...
planet_10 hifi
scroll down.
Zilla
planet_10 hifi
scroll down.
Zilla
That would be nice, like the phase plugs that are in the Hemps. But these seem permanently attached. I'll pull harder...;-)
So this morning, with not the fostex, but the Hemp FR8.0s installed (which have Planet 10 phase plugs) I put on "Raising Sand' the Robert Plant/Allyson Kraus compilation, generally regarded as an excellent recording.
Sounds terrible! no change without the phase plugs.
So. Doubt a speaker problem. I bet I have an issue with my amp. Doesn't surprise me too much. It died a month back and I replaced a 10W power resistor (I forget where in the PS circuit it was) but maybe that threw a bunch of other things out of whack. Something was wrong enough to damage a 10W resistor and all I had was a 20W replacement, so something still may be wrong.
When i have time I will try another amp.
Thanks for all the input. At least, so far, it looks like I didn't make a screwed up set of speakers ;-)
Sounds terrible! no change without the phase plugs.
So. Doubt a speaker problem. I bet I have an issue with my amp. Doesn't surprise me too much. It died a month back and I replaced a 10W power resistor (I forget where in the PS circuit it was) but maybe that threw a bunch of other things out of whack. Something was wrong enough to damage a 10W resistor and all I had was a 20W replacement, so something still may be wrong.
When i have time I will try another amp.
Thanks for all the input. At least, so far, it looks like I didn't make a screwed up set of speakers ;-)
I pulled harder and they started to move. I think there is something sticky under them. Sigh. I'll probably leave them alone, since, as you see in the above post, I don't think it is the speaker or driver that is the problem.🙁
Glad it's not the speakers! But that sucks about the amp. If you dont have a spare buy a cheap T-amp and test.
Problem is, I have too many...🙄
Oh, and I have two build projects going, a PPEL34 and a SE300b...😱
The problematic KT88 was a project buy anyway. It had been playing well, to my surprise, so I had just been sticking with it, but it is a point to point rats nest inside. My guess is that it is a little like trying to run 400V through a wad of steel wool, something is getting too close to something in there. Lots of learning to get by cleaning it up. Just happens to be my coolest looking amp at the moment though. Seems important to the wife...😕
Hello,
make an IMP measurement to see if this is a cause for the amp.
A BIB will normally have up and downs up to ~300Hz may be for a tube
not the best, also check the crossover minimum.
make an IMP measurement to see if this is a cause for the amp.
A BIB will normally have up and downs up to ~300Hz may be for a tube
not the best, also check the crossover minimum.
Hello,
1.
tubes work best if the impedanz of the speaker is linear,
2.
When the imp of a crossover gets to low the amp makes extrem distortion
listenable by the speaker.
1.
tubes work best if the impedanz of the speaker is linear,
2.
When the imp of a crossover gets to low the amp makes extrem distortion
listenable by the speaker.
What is the "imp" of a crossover?
Many people use these drivers and speakers with tubes and seem to have no trouble, so I really do not think it is a fundamental design problem (for the speaker or for the tube amp).
I certainly could have made an error with the crossover, however, so i am open to learning and appreciate the input. I just am not so savvy with the shorthand lingo...😱
Hello,
imp = impedanz
may be you made a wrong crossover layout,
to get the best step response from such a driver and i see the data of the speaker
i would try a notch filter with 4,7-6,8 Ohm between ~1,5 - 7 kHz driven alone, no HT
imp = impedanz
may be you made a wrong crossover layout,
to get the best step response from such a driver and i see the data of the speaker
i would try a notch filter with 4,7-6,8 Ohm between ~1,5 - 7 kHz driven alone, no HT
Ok. I will look at my circuit again.
I will also try driving the woofer by itself, no xover
Sorry I am dense, "no HT"?
I will also try driving the woofer by itself, no xover
Sorry I am dense, "no HT"?
no HT = no tweeter
FE208 would be a bit load at 2-5kHz,
i would try a notch with ~ 1,1mH/2x 10,2 Ohm/3,3µF
FE208 would be a bit load at 2-5kHz,
i would try a notch with ~ 1,1mH/2x 10,2 Ohm/3,3µF
Filter example
Hello,
like this with ~ 1,1mH/2x 10,2 Ohm/3,3µF, the two 10,2 parallel 5,1 Ohm for power
play with the parts, 2x 8,2 Ohm, 2,7µF, 1,1mH with the lowest Ohm.
may be this helps:
Parallel Notch Filter Circuit for Speaker Design
Hello,
like this with ~ 1,1mH/2x 10,2 Ohm/3,3µF, the two 10,2 parallel 5,1 Ohm for power
play with the parts, 2x 8,2 Ohm, 2,7µF, 1,1mH with the lowest Ohm.
may be this helps:
Parallel Notch Filter Circuit for Speaker Design
Last edited:
Ah, thanks. FOr some reason my brain locked onto a series notch.
Now, I do source from a Mac and can accomplish this with digital parametric equalization. Should I try that first?
Now, I do source from a Mac and can accomplish this with digital parametric equalization. Should I try that first?
Hello,
as you see it is a parallel notch,
try what you want, may be also a bit theory.
If possible make measurements to proof what you do,
you see i made measurements to verify what happens,
may be ask the developer of the BIB for measurements,
if he didn´t have any, ask why.
as you see it is a parallel notch,
try what you want, may be also a bit theory.
If possible make measurements to proof what you do,
you see i made measurements to verify what happens,
may be ask the developer of the BIB for measurements,
if he didn´t have any, ask why.
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