HI!
I am planning to do some serious tweaks on my 602's, so suggestions are welcome.
1. new boxes (volume remains the same 22L) made of 25 mm real wood (oak) or 19 mm MDF than coated with 10mm ply of oak wood. Which better?
2. Does the sound change if i change the shape of boxes but volume stays the same? I was thinking of makin' them floorstanders.
3. How would i get a bit deeper bass out of them?
4. Original port seems too narrow (can get quite noisy). If i made it wider how much longer would it have to be? Original 45mm wide and 100 mm long.
Other tweaks: better internal wiring, better crossover caps & MOX resistors... am i forgetting anything???
Do you think these drivers are worth it or should i try something different?
I am planning to do some serious tweaks on my 602's, so suggestions are welcome.
1. new boxes (volume remains the same 22L) made of 25 mm real wood (oak) or 19 mm MDF than coated with 10mm ply of oak wood. Which better?
2. Does the sound change if i change the shape of boxes but volume stays the same? I was thinking of makin' them floorstanders.
3. How would i get a bit deeper bass out of them?
4. Original port seems too narrow (can get quite noisy). If i made it wider how much longer would it have to be? Original 45mm wide and 100 mm long.
Other tweaks: better internal wiring, better crossover caps & MOX resistors... am i forgetting anything???
Do you think these drivers are worth it or should i try something different?
Attachments
How about changing the wire or X-over components?
Edit, Oo you already mentioned that
Okay, what does the x-over look like (what components does B&W use??)
Edit, Oo you already mentioned that
Okay, what does the x-over look like (what components does B&W use??)
The crossover isn't that bad. It's 2nd order, 4kHz. Inductors are air core, foil caps EVOX MMX on tweeter and unknown yellow on mid/bass.
Just a thought as I'm currently looking at buying speakers to do this with........but have you ever thought about bi-amping & doing away with the passive crossover completely?
I think these drivers deserve much better boxes than these. You would be amazed how loud and still acourate they can play!!! But bass is problematic. At high volume there's too much ''boom''. I don't think bi-amping is the anwser.
when they sound boomy try to replace the inductor
in front of the bass with a low resistance one.
The chassis will think it works in a bigger case
and the buttom should get tighter. How far the
vent caculation will be influenced - i don´t know!
in front of the bass with a low resistance one.
The chassis will think it works in a bigger case
and the buttom should get tighter. How far the
vent caculation will be influenced - i don´t know!
zverina said:
I believe it is possibele to measure them (but don't know how, If I rember correctly, it is not very difficult)
Do not use wood for the cabinet. Go with MDF and veneer.
The shape of the box will effect sound. Standing wave etc will cause major changes in the responce of the system.
You will want to at least keep the width of the baffle. I assume they compensated for baffle step and you wouldn't want to loose that. Otherwise, you could build the box to be a floorstanding design.
Deeper bass 'could' be achieved by measuring the driver or obtaining TS for the driver. You would be best served by measuring it. As far as the sound quality you would need to try it.
The port could be recalculated for the same box size to see what kind of port velocity it has. You could use the same size\volume cabinet with a different port size to reduce noise. If you do that remember to adjust the volume of the cabinet for the port.
Wire and x-over parts I believe make a huge difference. Also you could use a better quality stuffing. In your case Acustastuff would be a good choice.
When you bring the tweeter over to the new box, make sure to bring the flange with it. It highly shapes the repsonce of the tweeter.
The shape of the box will effect sound. Standing wave etc will cause major changes in the responce of the system.
You will want to at least keep the width of the baffle. I assume they compensated for baffle step and you wouldn't want to loose that. Otherwise, you could build the box to be a floorstanding design.
Deeper bass 'could' be achieved by measuring the driver or obtaining TS for the driver. You would be best served by measuring it. As far as the sound quality you would need to try it.
The port could be recalculated for the same box size to see what kind of port velocity it has. You could use the same size\volume cabinet with a different port size to reduce noise. If you do that remember to adjust the volume of the cabinet for the port.
Wire and x-over parts I believe make a huge difference. Also you could use a better quality stuffing. In your case Acustastuff would be a good choice.
When you bring the tweeter over to the new box, make sure to bring the flange with it. It highly shapes the repsonce of the tweeter.
Why not wood? Sonus faber, Opera, Diapason... they are all made of real wood except front pannel. I agree not every wood is good, but Oak is quite strong and low resonant.
B&W 602 S2....
Hmmm..I have the same speakers stashed away...
(Reserved for surround)
And now you put me on a new plan..:
Make them active, with help of gainclones and a simple
active crossover. Due to lack of time (too many projects),
I will go for these crossover-kits:
http://www.emblaaudio.no/products-nor.htm
(Sorry, but I think their web is in norwegian only).
But also new cabinets, as floorstanders would been nice!
Arne K
NORWAY
Hmmm..I have the same speakers stashed away...
(Reserved for surround)
And now you put me on a new plan..:
Make them active, with help of gainclones and a simple
active crossover. Due to lack of time (too many projects),
I will go for these crossover-kits:
http://www.emblaaudio.no/products-nor.htm
(Sorry, but I think their web is in norwegian only).
But also new cabinets, as floorstanders would been nice!
Arne K
NORWAY
Re: B&W 602 S2....
Pitty its not in English.
Funny they even show the design and give a partlist. Are they family of mr Pass? 🙂
sry for the offtopic 🙂. Btw I doubt if a floorstander is "better", just more surface to resonate.
That Embla stuff looks really interesting. Is it an Norwegian product. Can you control it from a PC? What are the differences between the models?Cobra2 said:
Pitty its not in English.
Funny they even show the design and give a partlist. Are they family of mr Pass? 🙂
sry for the offtopic 🙂. Btw I doubt if a floorstander is "better", just more surface to resonate.
Embla
You may try to e-mail them... tom.helgesen@emblaaudio.no
Yes, they have a PC-adjustable kit, (EAE1 -for tuning/experimenting) and a parts-adjustable kit: EAF1.
Kit price in Norway is close to $ 120, (mono).
You may download their software here:
http://www.emblaaudio.no/download-nor.htm
Arne K
NORWAY
You may try to e-mail them... tom.helgesen@emblaaudio.no
Yes, they have a PC-adjustable kit, (EAE1 -for tuning/experimenting) and a parts-adjustable kit: EAF1.
Kit price in Norway is close to $ 120, (mono).
You may download their software here:
http://www.emblaaudio.no/download-nor.htm
Arne K
NORWAY
The point is that I "think" that it is more difficult to make a larger housing quiet (no resonances of the walls). Unless perhaps you fill half of it with sand. Ofcourse also internal bracings help.
Anyway there is nothing wrong with good stands, I notice you already have some 🙂
Of course if you need the volume for the woofers...
Anyway thanks for the info on Embla. Language will be a problem. Maybe I just have to wait for the Pass X-over.
Anyway there is nothing wrong with good stands, I notice you already have some 🙂
Of course if you need the volume for the woofers...
Anyway thanks for the info on Embla. Language will be a problem. Maybe I just have to wait for the Pass X-over.
I think i won't change box dimensions too much, maybe a bit deeper, couse i'll need extra volume if i use 22mm MDF (originally 17-18mm). I agree about floorstander, but why building bigger boxes if not using extra volume - MDF isn't that cheap(i'll make new and better stands😀 )
stands:
stands:
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