Hi,
I'm putting together a 100w valve head for electric guitar. I've got a few turrets that are non-magnetic and whole bunch that are.
Is there any chance that magnetic fields from AC in the amp may couple hum onto the signal if using the magnetic type throughout?
I'm putting together a 100w valve head for electric guitar. I've got a few turrets that are non-magnetic and whole bunch that are.
Is there any chance that magnetic fields from AC in the amp may couple hum onto the signal if using the magnetic type throughout?
Wrong section, but i dont think so, most chassis are metal too. Take some care in laying out the heaters around the input section. And use shielded wire for the signal up to about the phase splitter and you’ll be fine.
You can post a schematic if you like, well try to give you some constructive advice
Cheers,
V4lve
You can post a schematic if you like, well try to give you some constructive advice
Cheers,
V4lve
Thread moved to Instruments and Amps.
Proper solder turrets will be tinned brass.
Magnetic (steel) seems wrong. I would not fret much about the magnetics (tube amps low current) but the solderability. This can be a problem even with "for purpose" turrets. I heard that one of the main vendors has been shipping hard-to-solder parts. Another had to ship-back and argue with his machinist to get parts he would sell.
Magnetic (steel) seems wrong. I would not fret much about the magnetics (tube amps low current) but the solderability. This can be a problem even with "for purpose" turrets. I heard that one of the main vendors has been shipping hard-to-solder parts. Another had to ship-back and argue with his machinist to get parts he would sell.
Most resistors (other than the CC types) have magnetic end caps... I agree with PRR, the problem may be soldering. You will need to wrap component leads together on the turret to make sure the leads are soldered properly and do not rely on the turret for solder connections.
Magnetism: no problem at all.
Soldering: It depends a lot on turret surface : tinned brass is great but expensive; I´d expect tinned or nickelplated steel which can be perfectly soldered, but requires a good iron (think 60W; a 30W would be iffy) and good solder.
Rosin needs a highish temperature to be activated and dissolve surface grime, so you must heat turret well.
Best iron tip is a pyramid or a "flat screwdriver" or chisel tip, with 2 flat sides, so as to have improved contact surface, worst is a long narrow needle tip.
FWIW old Marshall/Hiwatt/etc. assemblers used a classic 100W iron:
Soldering: It depends a lot on turret surface : tinned brass is great but expensive; I´d expect tinned or nickelplated steel which can be perfectly soldered, but requires a good iron (think 60W; a 30W would be iffy) and good solder.
Rosin needs a highish temperature to be activated and dissolve surface grime, so you must heat turret well.
Best iron tip is a pyramid or a "flat screwdriver" or chisel tip, with 2 flat sides, so as to have improved contact surface, worst is a long narrow needle tip.
FWIW old Marshall/Hiwatt/etc. assemblers used a classic 100W iron:
Great info! Thanks guys. I bought these with a silver finish from a large amp parts supplier, and have found them to be magnetic and the finish does not look like my other silver finished turrets. It looks like my turrets finished in gloss tin. My tin finished ones are nickel over the brass, then tin plated. The nickel being the ferromagnetic. My other silver turrets are copper over brass, with silver finish. These look like nickel over brass with silver plating (with both the brass and silver in question).
I'll let you know how the soldering test goes between the three types of finish I have on hand.
I'll let you know how the soldering test goes between the three types of finish I have on hand.