I'd go with your original suggestion, acrylic. I think it would work well for your application ( Clearaudio etc don't use it for no reason), it's fairly easy to work with and not too costly. Plenty of firms will cnc machine it for you if you give them some sort of a drawing.
Apologies! The link did not 'take'
Here is the link:
A PLINTH - TURNTABLE BASE for TECHNICS SP-10 mk2/MkIII Direct Drive -SL-1000 DD Professional Studio Turntable
It is the info under the ALBERT PORTER section which applies.
[Re Vantage...finished the work 30 months ago and I saw it then. Beautiful work. (after approx 2 years) one small item was added to the requirement. Since then several fruitless calls and now they are not responding to anything whatsoever.
I'm now almost 71 and fully expect my executors to have to deal with this! 😡]
Here is the link:
A PLINTH - TURNTABLE BASE for TECHNICS SP-10 mk2/MkIII Direct Drive -SL-1000 DD Professional Studio Turntable
It is the info under the ALBERT PORTER section which applies.
[Re Vantage...finished the work 30 months ago and I saw it then. Beautiful work. (after approx 2 years) one small item was added to the requirement. Since then several fruitless calls and now they are not responding to anything whatsoever.
I'm now almost 71 and fully expect my executors to have to deal with this! 😡]
that's not cricket. people like this really get the hackles up on me.
71 your still young 😉
thanks for all the and ideas.
@cats, i will be making some test boards of the airolam/silicone sometime in about 3 months and will gladly send a piece to you.
at the moment i think i will make one out of Acrylic and see how it goes as i'm eager to get my deck back up and running.
Ynwan on these boards has a carbon?nomex honeycomb sub-chassis turntable. A diy effort and one of the finest turntables of any kind I've ever heard.
i actually come across that nomex a while ago and thought it would be good to use.
what i would love to use is the untreated honeycomb ceramic core they use in certain catalytic converters. very very light and very very rigid and yup you guessed it very very expensive.. lol
i'm about to start fabricating the HDPE as a test to see how things go and if alls well then i'll move onto the Acrylic. i have a few ideas but will progress things along as i go to evaluate the changes.
what i would love to use is the untreated honeycomb ceramic core they use in certain catalytic converters. very very light and very very rigid and yup you guessed it very very expensive.. lol
i'm about to start fabricating the HDPE as a test to see how things go and if alls well then i'll move onto the Acrylic. i have a few ideas but will progress things along as i go to evaluate the changes.
The HDPE has a good damping factor, I measured 0.233, as against acrylic of on 0.07. So it would seem OK. I have a UHMWPE sample to test, which is stiffer than the HDPE (surprise surprise ! 🙂) and I'll post as soon as I have done it.😉
You don't want things too rigid, or they start to sound metallic, even carbon fibre can sound like metal!
You don't want things too rigid, or they start to sound metallic, even carbon fibre can sound like metal!
now i like the sound of UHMWPE and would go for that as long as the sensitivity to heat was better. one of the things i also don't like about PE is that it has to be mechanically fixed as it can't be bonded.
one of the reasons i chose HDPE was me dropping a chopping board on the floor and immediately thought hhhmmm i like the sound of that 🙂
one of the reasons i chose HDPE was me dropping a chopping board on the floor and immediately thought hhhmmm i like the sound of that 🙂
well, they use polyethylene as the core in Aluminium/PE/Al composites, so that must be glued. And there is a solvent for PE, although not generally known. It is trichlorobenzene, but you need it above 135°, nearer 150°C. With that, you can dissolve fertilizer bags! I think the trick is to use something in between the aluminium and PE, but I don't know what!
Just because something goes 'thud' instead of 'ping' doesn't automatically make it a good material. There is something called point source impedance that is relevant, here. If you do the knuckle test on a loudspeaker, it produces a different sound to what you would get if you hit it with a hammer. But which is more accurate?
Just because something goes 'thud' instead of 'ping' doesn't automatically make it a good material. There is something called point source impedance that is relevant, here. If you do the knuckle test on a loudspeaker, it produces a different sound to what you would get if you hit it with a hammer. But which is more accurate?
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