I am considering making a few Teres style bearings from 360 brass and 440c stainless steel that has been heat treated to a very high hardness.
Would this be a good material selection? Does anyone know what the original
parts were made from?
Thanks
Tony
Would this be a good material selection? Does anyone know what the original
parts were made from?
Thanks
Tony
Ok, I can't seem to find out what the original Teres bearing was made of. I'm reluctant to use 304 stainless because it will guald and seize so easily. I'm going to run 10 spindles from 440 stainless and have them heat treated. After heat treating I'm going to hard turn the ball bearing bore then grind the spindle all over so everything will be concentric within .0001.
Tony
Tony
I don't think it's necessary to heat treatment for the spindle but if you can do, it's great. What you gonna do with the housing? will you use only oil bath or additional bushing?
Bearings
Tony,
I am learning to machine and I am quite interested in your processes. Would you be willing to communicate via emails so I can ask questions that will not monopolize the forum?
Rick Kernell
Tony,
I am learning to machine and I am quite interested in your processes. Would you be willing to communicate via emails so I can ask questions that will not monopolize the forum?
Rick Kernell
Bearing finally finished
I Just finished these bearings. I used 440 stainless steal heat treated to Rocwell 60 C then ground the diameter and ball bearing bore.
I Just finished these bearings. I used 440 stainless steal heat treated to Rocwell 60 C then ground the diameter and ball bearing bore.
Very impressive!!
Some things to consider:
1. What have you used for a thrust plate?
2. How does it feel when fitting together?
3. Teres takes a few hours for the spindle to settle on the thrust plate due to oil seeping up. Might be worth doing a test on that for your own info. Add a weight on top to help coax it down.
Well done - I've seen so many attempts to do exactly this but none as determined and complete as this.
I'm sure many would be interested in taking one off your hands. What kind of price would you want if you decide to sell some?
Fran
Some things to consider:
1. What have you used for a thrust plate?
2. How does it feel when fitting together?
3. Teres takes a few hours for the spindle to settle on the thrust plate due to oil seeping up. Might be worth doing a test on that for your own info. Add a weight on top to help coax it down.
Well done - I've seen so many attempts to do exactly this but none as determined and complete as this.
I'm sure many would be interested in taking one off your hands. What kind of price would you want if you decide to sell some?
Fran
1. I’m using black Delrin for the thrust plate
2. It feels very smooth when fitted
3. If you apply some oil to the surface you can push them together. It does take a while for the air to escape but there no chance of the spindle seizing like 304 S.S. because it is hardened.
I did make a few extras. Would 250.00 be a fair price?
2. It feels very smooth when fitted
3. If you apply some oil to the surface you can push them together. It does take a while for the air to escape but there no chance of the spindle seizing like 304 S.S. because it is hardened.
I did make a few extras. Would 250.00 be a fair price?
Very nice. Be sure to store the spindles with a coating of light oil so they don't rust. I'm sure someone's mentioned this already.
Jeff
Very nice! Curious how you did the bore. From some recent experiments I found that boring and reaming can't hold a candle to what can be done with a properly used Sunnen hone.
CH
CH
I coated the spindles with a storage lubricant.
I bored them close to size then honed with a Sunnen hone.
Tony
I bored them close to size then honed with a Sunnen hone.
Tony
FWIW, I have found there to be a significant change in the presentation of the table when I change the thrust material in my bearing.
My bearing has a through hole design, (easier to home), and I am able to unbolt the bottom of the bearing housing to swap thrust buttons.
white delrin had a great prat, but teflon made the soundstage start at the floor instead of a floating a few feet above the ground. Teflon doesn't have the immediacy of delrin in my table but the teflon has more of that analog flow. Forgive my audio babble terms, it's the best I can do to describe my results.
My bearing has a through hole design, (easier to home), and I am able to unbolt the bottom of the bearing housing to swap thrust buttons.
white delrin had a great prat, but teflon made the soundstage start at the floor instead of a floating a few feet above the ground. Teflon doesn't have the immediacy of delrin in my table but the teflon has more of that analog flow. Forgive my audio babble terms, it's the best I can do to describe my results.
You might try a thrust button made from true Lignum Vitae. It can be turned like metal and used as is, or polished to a mirror finish. IMHO it has a somewhat remarkable combination of qualities.
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