Tundra's pj (15") w/ pics
I've already posted my results over at diypc, but I also wanted to post here also due to all the help and resources that this site provided...thanks everyone!
After much work, I have mostly finished up my projector. I say mostly since 'does anyone ever really finish one of these?' It is a vertical design single fold with a 15" lcd.
-LL standard lens with LL fresnels
-LL Ushio 400w (mogul) kit w/ ballast
-CMV 522a LCD (newegg), 500:1 contrast, 16ms (note - very short ffcs but no overlap)
-First surface mirror (diypc)
-120mm adjustable dual bb fan (pcalchemy)
-Ikea napkin ring reflector
-Split fresnel for keystoning
-Anti-glare LCD surface removed
-Dimensions 13"x16"x21"
I decided to do a vertical design since it's smaller and required less keystoning and it 'fits' next to my coffee table without being quite as obnoxious as a straight shooter would be there. It is connected to a (pvr - sagetv 🙂) computer so it gets direct vga. The light path has few obstructions...other than the 2 fresnels, lcd, and lens, I'm only using a single Lexan XL10 sheet for uv/fresnel support and also the fs mirror. The inner workings are nothing special nor particularly innovative and are quite sloppy compared to some of the very slick projects I've seen elsewhere and LL. The outside is also a bit sloppy and is simply 1/2" MDF cut by hand with an $18 jigsaw and painted black.
Ok, I've bored you enough...on to the shots...mostly LOTR of course. These are taken with a Canon Powershot S45 digital camera. They haven't been edited other than conversion from raw to jpg and downsized to 800x600. I feel that the pictures very accurately represent the impression I get of the real images projected, brightness/color/etc. Note there is some vertical color banding in the pictures that the camera must have added -- probably due to electrical interference from the ballast. Also, the dark areas don't appear quite as dark as the pictures portray. Screensize is about 72" diag at 16:9.
-Tundra
I've already posted my results over at diypc, but I also wanted to post here also due to all the help and resources that this site provided...thanks everyone!
After much work, I have mostly finished up my projector. I say mostly since 'does anyone ever really finish one of these?' It is a vertical design single fold with a 15" lcd.
-LL standard lens with LL fresnels
-LL Ushio 400w (mogul) kit w/ ballast
-CMV 522a LCD (newegg), 500:1 contrast, 16ms (note - very short ffcs but no overlap)
-First surface mirror (diypc)
-120mm adjustable dual bb fan (pcalchemy)
-Ikea napkin ring reflector
-Split fresnel for keystoning
-Anti-glare LCD surface removed
-Dimensions 13"x16"x21"
I decided to do a vertical design since it's smaller and required less keystoning and it 'fits' next to my coffee table without being quite as obnoxious as a straight shooter would be there. It is connected to a (pvr - sagetv 🙂) computer so it gets direct vga. The light path has few obstructions...other than the 2 fresnels, lcd, and lens, I'm only using a single Lexan XL10 sheet for uv/fresnel support and also the fs mirror. The inner workings are nothing special nor particularly innovative and are quite sloppy compared to some of the very slick projects I've seen elsewhere and LL. The outside is also a bit sloppy and is simply 1/2" MDF cut by hand with an $18 jigsaw and painted black.
Ok, I've bored you enough...on to the shots...mostly LOTR of course. These are taken with a Canon Powershot S45 digital camera. They haven't been edited other than conversion from raw to jpg and downsized to 800x600. I feel that the pictures very accurately represent the impression I get of the real images projected, brightness/color/etc. Note there is some vertical color banding in the pictures that the camera must have added -- probably due to electrical interference from the ballast. Also, the dark areas don't appear quite as dark as the pictures portray. Screensize is about 72" diag at 16:9.
-Tundra
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
looks pretty nice, do you have any more pics of the inside of your enclosure? i'm trying to get some setup ideas for mine
great job tundra, very nice.
So how did you work around the short ffc? did you buy an extension ffc and if so which one and where did you get it from?
i would really like to see an overhead shot of your setup, like how you have the driver board angled for the lcd panel..
So how did you work around the short ffc? did you buy an extension ffc and if so which one and where did you get it from?
i would really like to see an overhead shot of your setup, like how you have the driver board angled for the lcd panel..
ok...here's a couple more inside shots, though I'm almost embarrassed to post them. Like I said, my stuff is sloppy -- my only concern is making the image look good, not the projector 🙂
The short ffcs go right by the fresnell to the board...they're only like an inch long. I had to mount the lcd boards on the hot side instead of behind the mirror because the really fragile ribbons connected to the lcd only like to go one way...forcing them the opposite way is a good way to kill and lcd real fast. I didn't need extensions for this lcd, but I had a previous lcd that did need some. I got them from the LL store and they worked real good.
Those hardboard frames I made work pretty good, but I'd probably use a different method/material if I did it over because they (and the mdf case) make a lot of particles and dust.
The short ffcs go right by the fresnell to the board...they're only like an inch long. I had to mount the lcd boards on the hot side instead of behind the mirror because the really fragile ribbons connected to the lcd only like to go one way...forcing them the opposite way is a good way to kill and lcd real fast. I didn't need extensions for this lcd, but I had a previous lcd that did need some. I got them from the LL store and they worked real good.
Those hardboard frames I made work pretty good, but I'd probably use a different method/material if I did it over because they (and the mdf case) make a lot of particles and dust.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
are you using a reflector other than the sheet metal? it doesn't look like it. and how necessary was the keystoning?
there talking about correcting for the angle at witch the projector is projecting like from the ground or from the ceiling if you hang a pj you will notice that the bottom of youre image will be wider than the top and the oposite of youre pj is lower to the ground. so they correct this by puting the lcd and or fresnel at a angle.
eight_heads said:
I'm using an 'Ikea napkin ring' reflector...which is spherical.
Using a flat reflector would lead to improperly directed reflections which would increase brightness but perhaps at the expense of contrast or hotspots, etc.
snortonnorton said:
Keystone correction is useful to help bring an off-angle trapezoidal image back to rectangular. More angle needs more correction. Since my pj sits on the floor, I use a moderate amount of keystone correction with field fresnel tilt and I also tilt the screen a bit.
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