today the simple se said his first words ...
first of all he is dead silent
I;ve only listened him for a couple of hours with triode mode and not in high volume (kids are sleeping)
the sound is just amazing (my poor English dont help me to describe what I heard)
never believed that my first build would be so good ...
ty George and the rest of you for your advices ....
first of all he is dead silent
I;ve only listened him for a couple of hours with triode mode and not in high volume (kids are sleeping)
the sound is just amazing (my poor English dont help me to describe what I heard)
never believed that my first build would be so good ...
ty George and the rest of you for your advices ....
Attachments
oooops,
suddenly a strange noise came out from one channel, i turned it off for 10 minutes and when i powered it again there were sparkles in the rectifier tube and a blown fuse .... replaced it and happened again ...... no more fuses left so I have to wait untill tomorrow to get some more (probably bigger ones , 5A instead of3)
any ideas for the sparkles ??
suddenly a strange noise came out from one channel, i turned it off for 10 minutes and when i powered it again there were sparkles in the rectifier tube and a blown fuse .... replaced it and happened again ...... no more fuses left so I have to wait untill tomorrow to get some more (probably bigger ones , 5A instead of3)
any ideas for the sparkles ??
I wouldn't use 5A fuse. It sounds like power capacitor may be at fault. There was a mention of this symptom on older thread here. Try search function with "simple se fuse".jimazz said:suddenly a strange noise came out from one channel, i turned it off for 10 minutes and when i powered it again there were sparkles in the rectifier tube and a blown fuse .... replaced it and happened again ...... no more fuses left so I have to wait untill tomorrow to get some more (probably bigger ones , 5A instead of3)
Don't use a 5 amp fuse. Don't use a 3 amp fuse, either. 2 amp fuse is plenty. If something is wrong, you want the fuse to blow.
Your 5AR4 rectifier tube is done. It has arc'd out, and will never be good for vacuum tube service again. You will need a new rectifier tube.
There may be rumors floating around that JJ rectifiers are not particularly well known for their durability. Lots of early failures and that kind of stuff. I'm running an older Sovtek in my Simple SE right now. I bought it about ten years ago. I've also used Chinese 5AR4 in my Simple SE with success. Maybe they were Shuguang, or maybe they were Sino. The label on the side said "Ruby".
Old 5AR4 made in Gt.Britain and Japan (Philips, Mullard, Matsushita) are well known for their reliability, but they tend to command very high prices in the used market.
Your 5AR4 rectifier tube is done. It has arc'd out, and will never be good for vacuum tube service again. You will need a new rectifier tube.
There may be rumors floating around that JJ rectifiers are not particularly well known for their durability. Lots of early failures and that kind of stuff. I'm running an older Sovtek in my Simple SE right now. I bought it about ten years ago. I've also used Chinese 5AR4 in my Simple SE with success. Maybe they were Shuguang, or maybe they were Sino. The label on the side said "Ruby".
Old 5AR4 made in Gt.Britain and Japan (Philips, Mullard, Matsushita) are well known for their reliability, but they tend to command very high prices in the used market.
Did you fit the solid state diodes to the board? If so, it may be worth checking that they are not destroyed. This is a common problem with the Simple SE. I would suggest removing the solid state diodes and purchase a new 5AR4. My JJ rectifier tube did the same thing, and the solid state diodes were destroyed. For me this was associated with the use of the standby switch. I removed the standby switch and the solid state diodes and replaced the rectifier tube (with a Sovtek 5AR4) and have had completely trouble free operation for over a year.
no solid state diodes, no standby switch
as for the rectifier tube, I am waiting a sovtek on Wensday, and probably order tomorrow 1-2 more, I;ll check ebay first thing in the morning
next time I think I'll take a video of the fireworks (though I hope they dont happen), it was awasome and scary ....
as for the rectifier tube, I am waiting a sovtek on Wensday, and probably order tomorrow 1-2 more, I;ll check ebay first thing in the morning
next time I think I'll take a video of the fireworks (though I hope they dont happen), it was awasome and scary ....
If a new rectifier tube just sparked, it suggests that something else is wrong in the amp circuit. If it's the one that sparked previously, you don't want to use it anymore.jimazz said:removed the supl cap, with 1A fuse, no fireworks just sparks at about 15sec after switching - blown fuse
after 30 minutes with 1.8A fuse some sparks about 10 sec and more after 30 sec - blown fuse
tomorow I;ll get a gz34 from a friend and try it .... maybe its just the JJ
update
I tried 2 more times to power the amp
1st time (1A fuse) sparks after 40-45 sec - blown fuse
2nd time (2.5A fuse) no sparks at all , after 2 minutes I turned on the cd player and played a cd, bad blury sound and lot of disortion ...... put a sacd - the same bad sound, and after 2-3 minutes of bad sound , a spark in the tube along with a pop and blown fuse
no more for tonight, I'll wait to get some more rectifier tubes ...
Evenharmonics - it has been the same rectifier tube , which Iam going to bury in the backyard ---- rip
I tried 2 more times to power the amp
1st time (1A fuse) sparks after 40-45 sec - blown fuse
2nd time (2.5A fuse) no sparks at all , after 2 minutes I turned on the cd player and played a cd, bad blury sound and lot of disortion ...... put a sacd - the same bad sound, and after 2-3 minutes of bad sound , a spark in the tube along with a pop and blown fuse
no more for tonight, I'll wait to get some more rectifier tubes ...
Evenharmonics - it has been the same rectifier tube , which Iam going to bury in the backyard ---- rip
following a friends advice
1- removed the rectifier tube, powered on - el34 alive - no blown fuse
2- turned it off - put the rectifier back on - fired up - very little spark - no blown fuse - plays quite nice (not like the first time , but the motor run cap is out)
the 3d step was in case of a blown fuse at step 2 to change the rectifier tube - if it blew the fuse again then it wouldnt have been the rectifier but maybe the caps
anyway I didnt have to go to step 3 ....
is been playing like that for 30 minutes now - everything seems to be working ok ....... just not the sound of the first day ....
?????????????
1- removed the rectifier tube, powered on - el34 alive - no blown fuse
2- turned it off - put the rectifier back on - fired up - very little spark - no blown fuse - plays quite nice (not like the first time , but the motor run cap is out)
the 3d step was in case of a blown fuse at step 2 to change the rectifier tube - if it blew the fuse again then it wouldnt have been the rectifier but maybe the caps
anyway I didnt have to go to step 3 ....
is been playing like that for 30 minutes now - everything seems to be working ok ....... just not the sound of the first day ....
?????????????
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.
- Home
- More Vendors...
- Tubelab
- tubelab se