Hi.
I’ve just acquired a couple of Whatfedale DX-2 Satellite speakers for my surround sound system.
After wiring them in to my system and finding that they didn’t work, I decided to take them apart to see what the issue was.
Turns out, whoever had them before I acquired them had obviously turned them up too high, and had blown a capacitor in both speakers.
I’ve included a picture of the capacitor in question. I cannot seem to find one anywhere to be able to them.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
AshB123
I’ve just acquired a couple of Whatfedale DX-2 Satellite speakers for my surround sound system.
After wiring them in to my system and finding that they didn’t work, I decided to take them apart to see what the issue was.
Turns out, whoever had them before I acquired them had obviously turned them up too high, and had blown a capacitor in both speakers.
I’ve included a picture of the capacitor in question. I cannot seem to find one anywhere to be able to them.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
AshB123
Mundorf Mlytic 33.00uF 100Vdc non-polar electrolytic capacitor.
https://www.partsconnexion.com/MUNDORF-71873.html
https://www.partsconnexion.com/MUNDORF-71873.html
Thanks
after you said that they’re readily available. I cannot find them anywhere. I found 1, which had a lead time of 32 weeks, haha
after you said that they’re readily available. I cannot find them anywhere. I found 1, which had a lead time of 32 weeks, haha
Thanks for the link, I'm in the UK though, so I'd rather order from a uk supplierMundorf Mlytic 33.00uF 100Vdc non-polar electrolytic capacitor.
https://www.partsconnexion.com/MUNDORF-71873.html
Thanks again though
Hello,
Personally I would use 33uf 80 or 100 volt caps as these did blow. Panasonic SU caps, bipolar are decent quality and likely available. Digikey.com was one source I have used.
Regards,
Greg
That's where I've been looking, none in stock unfortunately, and they have a 32 week lead time, I guess I'll have to wait, haha
https://www.toutlehautparleur.com/a...densateurs-monacor-lsc-330np-33uf-100vdc.html
You can add capacitors in // to reach your desired value if needed ( as long as you have space to locate them in the box): 2x15uf+1x3,3uf will do.
I would not overate them ( the voltage the capacitor accept) too much as they'll survive a blast from the amp but your drivers will probably not... if they acted as a fuse this isn't that bad: drivers are (maybe) unobtainable, capacitors are not.
You can add capacitors in // to reach your desired value if needed ( as long as you have space to locate them in the box): 2x15uf+1x3,3uf will do.
I would not overate them ( the voltage the capacitor accept) too much as they'll survive a blast from the amp but your drivers will probably not... if they acted as a fuse this isn't that bad: drivers are (maybe) unobtainable, capacitors are not.
Thanks for all your help guys. I found some at www.cricklewoodelectronics.com
not the exact Voltage, but they’ll do to try and get them working.
I’ll post about how successful the repair is when I get around to it. Haha.
not the exact Voltage, but they’ll do to try and get them working.
I’ll post about how successful the repair is when I get around to it. Haha.
Are Cricklewood Electronics still there? Top of Shoot-Up Hill on the Edgware Road in London? Very interesting shop. Often would I rummage in their bargain bins. 🙂
I have CONCERNS about your attempted fix here. Thing is you say the speakers don't work. What? Not at all, or badly?
A blown (open) 33uF capacitor on the bass shunt would still have them working after a fashion.
The circuit is probably something like this:
The loss of the capacitor will just muck up the crossover in the midrange. Most people I know would never notice.
You should be measuring some resistances and looking for broken connections. A £5 multi-meter or a 1.5V pencell battery can tell you a lot.
Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
I have CONCERNS about your attempted fix here. Thing is you say the speakers don't work. What? Not at all, or badly?
A blown (open) 33uF capacitor on the bass shunt would still have them working after a fashion.
The circuit is probably something like this:
The loss of the capacitor will just muck up the crossover in the midrange. Most people I know would never notice.
You should be measuring some resistances and looking for broken connections. A £5 multi-meter or a 1.5V pencell battery can tell you a lot.
Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
Last edited:
Are Cricklewood Electronics still there? Top of Shoot-Up Hill on the Edgware Road in London? Very interesting shop. Often would I rummage in their bargain bins. 🙂
I have CONCERNS about your attempted fix here. Thing is you say the speakers don't work. What? Not at all, or badly?
A blown (open) 33uF capacitor on the bass shunt would still have them working after a fashion.
The circuit is probably something like this:
View attachment 1042963
The loss of the capacitor will just muck up the crossover in the midrange. Most people I know would never notice.
View attachment 1042964
You should be measuring some resistances and looking for broken connections. A £5 multi-meter or a 1.5V pencell battery can tell you a lot.
Best regards from Steve in Portsmouth, UK.
Yes, if the speakers are dead, maybe there are internal fuses that are also out.
The 32uF is not likely to be a series capacitor, so there still should be sound.
Thanks for the information guys. I’ve only had a quick look at the circuitry of the speakers to be honest. So that the capacitors that have been mentioned had blown.
I’ll have a more in depth look later on and I’ll provide a little circuit diagram of what’s actually in the speakers themselves. Being an electrician, I have some knowledge of how circuits work. 😂
Thanks again.
I see 8 different bi-polar caps that are 33uF and 50V or 63V in stock at Digi-key right now...
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...YZGpupGsIJzcltZ2js5uHlIgALQI0MpQAi4aQSEsEq1AA
https://www.digikey.ca/en/products/...YZGpupGsIJzcltZ2js5uHlIgALQI0MpQAi4aQSEsEq1AA
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