I am planning of building Troels " The Loudspeaker 2 " along the lines of Tobias's build
TheLoudspeaker_Tobias
but in 3 sections instead of 2 to facilitate ease of movement and simplify construction. 1. The upper section would contain the mid, horn and tweeter would be built along Tobias's line but width would be reduced to 55 cm as per " The Loudspeaker 2 " 2. The bass bin would be divided into 2 sections, roughly 55cm wide x 61cm high x 35.5 depth, one containing the BMS driver and vents, the other to be joined to provide the volume of a 180 to 190 litre box.My hope is for suggestions on the means of joining the 2 bins together in the most elegant fashion that would allow multiple times to be disassembled and reassembled while sealing the 2 halves together. My thoughts are 12 long bolts through the aft section, battens with barrel nuts against a brace on the fwd section but am open to other options. Material to be 1" and 3/4" Baltic Birch. Battens to be hardwood. Ease of construction to be a plus. Open also to the seal interface between the 2 units. I am mulling over several approaches.
Any Ideas?
Vanko
TheLoudspeaker_Tobias
but in 3 sections instead of 2 to facilitate ease of movement and simplify construction. 1. The upper section would contain the mid, horn and tweeter would be built along Tobias's line but width would be reduced to 55 cm as per " The Loudspeaker 2 " 2. The bass bin would be divided into 2 sections, roughly 55cm wide x 61cm high x 35.5 depth, one containing the BMS driver and vents, the other to be joined to provide the volume of a 180 to 190 litre box.My hope is for suggestions on the means of joining the 2 bins together in the most elegant fashion that would allow multiple times to be disassembled and reassembled while sealing the 2 halves together. My thoughts are 12 long bolts through the aft section, battens with barrel nuts against a brace on the fwd section but am open to other options. Material to be 1" and 3/4" Baltic Birch. Battens to be hardwood. Ease of construction to be a plus. Open also to the seal interface between the 2 units. I am mulling over several approaches.
Any Ideas?
Vanko
I'd do something simple: rubber feet (38mm wide, 10mm tall) attached to the bottom of each cabinet, and a 5mm deep cutout in the top of each block.
As you assemble, they'll locate well and won't separate until the cabinet is knocked over.
Why make things more complicated than they need to be?
Chris
As you assemble, they'll locate well and won't separate until the cabinet is knocked over.
Why make things more complicated than they need to be?
Chris
Hi Chris,
I am not sure I follow your suggestion, perhaps a drawing to illustrate the concept.
Cheers,
Vanko
I am not sure I follow your suggestion, perhaps a drawing to illustrate the concept.
Cheers,
Vanko
Take this subwoofer for example: Product Detail - RCF
On one side, it has rubber feet. On the other, circular cutouts.
That way, the cabinets can stack and they will inter-lock, creating a stable structure.
Chris
On one side, it has rubber feet. On the other, circular cutouts.
That way, the cabinets can stack and they will inter-lock, creating a stable structure.
Chris
Chris,
I am not trying to stack 2 units together. I am building a very large bass bin / subwoofer reflex box that is cut into half to allow transportation by a single person and can be assembled by one person. The overall size of the bass bin is 55cm wide x 61cm high x 70cm depth. far too large and heavy to be moved by one person. However broken into 2 boxes that could be joined horizontally together would simplify construction by one person into manageable but still large chunks. My thought is to have a holey brace made from 1" Baltic Birch protruding 1/4" from the aft side of the fwd box to mate with a picture frame brace that is rebate 1/4" from fwd edge of the aft box and then bolted together to form 1 large bass bin which on top would mount the open framed mid, horn tweeter section which could be stacked by the means you describe. I was hoping for alternate ways of joining the 2 bass bins sections into 1 large bin .
Vanko
I am not trying to stack 2 units together. I am building a very large bass bin / subwoofer reflex box that is cut into half to allow transportation by a single person and can be assembled by one person. The overall size of the bass bin is 55cm wide x 61cm high x 70cm depth. far too large and heavy to be moved by one person. However broken into 2 boxes that could be joined horizontally together would simplify construction by one person into manageable but still large chunks. My thought is to have a holey brace made from 1" Baltic Birch protruding 1/4" from the aft side of the fwd box to mate with a picture frame brace that is rebate 1/4" from fwd edge of the aft box and then bolted together to form 1 large bass bin which on top would mount the open framed mid, horn tweeter section which could be stacked by the means you describe. I was hoping for alternate ways of joining the 2 bass bins sections into 1 large bin .
Vanko
Flanged Speaker
Hi Vankovich,
in theory it is possible. You will need to build a flange. Flange - Wikipedia
So that is a lip going all around the speaker that you can tighten evently with some type of rubber gasket in between the two parts that will then be tightened by a ring of screws pulling the two parts together.
The main thing is the whole assembly needs to be airtight (by pressing on a rubber seal) and you need to keep both sides of the box level. Therefore you will need 4 wheels on each section and tightening the screws on the bottom will be inconvenient. Also you will need to work out something to have the inside bracing connect the front and back piece. This will likely be less strong and/or have issues with rattling if they almost touch, and/or require thicker walls.
You will need quite a few heavy duty bolts spaced eavenly around the speaker and have everything perfectly aligned. Also this will add weight to each section. The "lip" needs to be strong to hold the speakers together. Probably around 3-4 cm wide 2.5cm thick each flage.
It will be difficult and a bit expensive but it can be done.
My main issue is it will be very difficult to make it elegant and the weight savings will not be as much as you think. It will literally look like Frankenstein, but could be cool and unique.
The flange will need to be sturdy. It will be a pain to align and tighten lots of screws. If you do something like this get wheels that lock into place. In theory you could do a long screw internal flage, best with a double interlocking internal seal, but you need to be careful with isolating the screws and you will loose space inside the box meaning needing a bigger box. Weight savings will be lower and costs and complexity very high. This could be elegant but will require screw heads/bolts on the back and front.
A better idea IMO would be to do the two box solution (Tobias) and to remove the 18" woofer when moving it about. Then move the bottom section with one of those carts that you move fridges with. You can move a 150kg speaker with one of these fairly easily by yourself. Getting it up stairs might require a friend but could maybe be done by yourself (LSII) though😉 If you look at the dimensions of the Loudspeaker II bass box, a two box solution shouldn't be that bad, with only ca. 3 hz F3 loss.
Remember build in Multiplex as it is lighter than MDF.
Or do a three box solution of the Loudspeaker 3 as Troel used for his testing. That should easily be manageable, especially if you remove the drivers.
Cheers
W
Hi Vankovich,
in theory it is possible. You will need to build a flange. Flange - Wikipedia
So that is a lip going all around the speaker that you can tighten evently with some type of rubber gasket in between the two parts that will then be tightened by a ring of screws pulling the two parts together.
The main thing is the whole assembly needs to be airtight (by pressing on a rubber seal) and you need to keep both sides of the box level. Therefore you will need 4 wheels on each section and tightening the screws on the bottom will be inconvenient. Also you will need to work out something to have the inside bracing connect the front and back piece. This will likely be less strong and/or have issues with rattling if they almost touch, and/or require thicker walls.
You will need quite a few heavy duty bolts spaced eavenly around the speaker and have everything perfectly aligned. Also this will add weight to each section. The "lip" needs to be strong to hold the speakers together. Probably around 3-4 cm wide 2.5cm thick each flage.
It will be difficult and a bit expensive but it can be done.
My main issue is it will be very difficult to make it elegant and the weight savings will not be as much as you think. It will literally look like Frankenstein, but could be cool and unique.
The flange will need to be sturdy. It will be a pain to align and tighten lots of screws. If you do something like this get wheels that lock into place. In theory you could do a long screw internal flage, best with a double interlocking internal seal, but you need to be careful with isolating the screws and you will loose space inside the box meaning needing a bigger box. Weight savings will be lower and costs and complexity very high. This could be elegant but will require screw heads/bolts on the back and front.
A better idea IMO would be to do the two box solution (Tobias) and to remove the 18" woofer when moving it about. Then move the bottom section with one of those carts that you move fridges with. You can move a 150kg speaker with one of these fairly easily by yourself. Getting it up stairs might require a friend but could maybe be done by yourself (LSII) though😉 If you look at the dimensions of the Loudspeaker II bass box, a two box solution shouldn't be that bad, with only ca. 3 hz F3 loss.
Remember build in Multiplex as it is lighter than MDF.
Or do a three box solution of the Loudspeaker 3 as Troel used for his testing. That should easily be manageable, especially if you remove the drivers.
Cheers
W
Before you go too much further, have a look at Troels's very latest project, The Loudspeaker III. This continues Troels's effect to achieve performance not too far off that of the original TLS, but in a smaller box (albeit at the cost of substantially reduced sensitivity).
He seems very pleased with this version.
Alex
He seems very pleased with this version.
Alex
Hi Folks,
Yes I was very surprised by its release. I am now looking at the latest version of "The Loudspeaker III" not only in the size reduction but also at the savings in overall costs albeit awaiting for Jantzen to release pricing of the crossover components which is much more simplified than previous versions. As I have 2 Hypex FA501 amps I am 1/4th the way there, all though I may opt for the Ciare NDH-15-4S as the bass driver being its readily available here in the States.
Cheers,
Vanko
Yes I was very surprised by its release. I am now looking at the latest version of "The Loudspeaker III" not only in the size reduction but also at the savings in overall costs albeit awaiting for Jantzen to release pricing of the crossover components which is much more simplified than previous versions. As I have 2 Hypex FA501 amps I am 1/4th the way there, all though I may opt for the Ciare NDH-15-4S as the bass driver being its readily available here in the States.
Cheers,
Vanko