My wonderful 4 year old put a crease in one of the wideband drivers in my living room. I can't really tell the difference in sound, but I keep looking at it with sadness.
So, thinking about my next build! I'm interested in the new Troels Gravesen 2.5way with the Mw19 and Mw16 SBA drivers (SBA-761). Footprint is 22 X 28. I want the footprint to be 28 X 22. I understand this will affect the baffle step and I'll probably have too much bass.
However, I'm planning on putting these against the back wall and thinking about using a minidsp 2X4HD to correct for this prior to feeding the signal to Troels' passive xover. I'm definitely not experienced in crossover design, but I have a mic and am not afraid to measure. My room is pretty big and not super boomy.
Thoughts on this? Dumb idea? Be frank -- I wish Sreten were still around to point out the plan's flaws in no uncertain terms!
Thanks!
So, thinking about my next build! I'm interested in the new Troels Gravesen 2.5way with the Mw19 and Mw16 SBA drivers (SBA-761). Footprint is 22 X 28. I want the footprint to be 28 X 22. I understand this will affect the baffle step and I'll probably have too much bass.
However, I'm planning on putting these against the back wall and thinking about using a minidsp 2X4HD to correct for this prior to feeding the signal to Troels' passive xover. I'm definitely not experienced in crossover design, but I have a mic and am not afraid to measure. My room is pretty big and not super boomy.
Thoughts on this? Dumb idea? Be frank -- I wish Sreten were still around to point out the plan's flaws in no uncertain terms!
Thanks!
There's ~ 100Hz difference in baffle step freq.; In a 2.5 way I doubt you'd notice the difference.
If you wanted to be a perfectionist you could use a slightly larger inductor for L3, or add a small one in series with it.
If you wanted to be a perfectionist you could use a slightly larger inductor for L3, or add a small one in series with it.
Best to talk to Troels on all accounts of the design. The most logical thing you could do, imo. Why not first give it a fair chance and build exactly as proposed. Then, if you still think there is something odd about it, and once you have exhausted Troels counseling, come over here again. There is hardly any design out there that could not be modified to sound right. The problem is people have different habits and tastes, as always, so there is multiple solutions.
With a 28cm wide front baffle, a REAL 3-way design using the 10" SB29NRX75-6 woofer seems like a better design choice. The 2x4 MiniDSP will allow you to bi-amp(woofer + mid-tweet) .. plus some room equalization. Seems like a good time to take the DSP-jump and save the cost of good quality passive L-R-C components.
Troels has the SBA-10, but the cabinet uses a complex pyramid top.
There are a few 3-ways passive Xover designs you can review like:
--slanted baffle Kairos + 10" SB29NRX75-6 woofer
--normal baffle Adelphos + 10" SB29NRX75-6 woofer
Google"The Kairos and Continuum Three-Ways"
A search should find a couple free diyAudio designs like the Kalasan
@PeteMcK, Thanks very much. Good info that should have been obvious. I'm uncertain exactly what happens to baffle step when close to the rear wall. I've also not yet fooled around with the Edge, but one of these days I'll commit some time to it.
@Lojzek, Thanks for the suggestion. I want to keep the cabinet depth as shallow as possible to fit in with my family's living room habits -- hence rotating it on its side. Not asking Troels is out of respect for his wishes. He has written on his website in many places: "You cannot change cabinet front panel dimensions and drivers' placement without needing a new crossover - and I cannot help.". Fair enough. I certainly don't begrudge him this.
@LineSource, Thanks for the suggestions. I've been using dsp in all of my diy follies over the last 6 years. One nagging question I have is what good passive crossovers with shallow slopes can do. I have plenty of amps and have looked heaps at both the SB29 and WO24.
What do you think a REAL 3way would add that the 2.5way won't provide? I know this is a subjective question, but I would appreciate your thoughts!
I made a WAW a couple of years back with a 12" pro helper woofer in a Karlsonator that certainly put a smile on my dial often, but it tickled an eigenmode or two in my room and was boomy on quite a few songs. I want to stay away from this. I'm sure that my implementation wasn't the best, but given the relative paucity of time that I have for DIY, a proven design seems like a better solution. Hah! ... and now I want to change a proven design!
@Lojzek, Thanks for the suggestion. I want to keep the cabinet depth as shallow as possible to fit in with my family's living room habits -- hence rotating it on its side. Not asking Troels is out of respect for his wishes. He has written on his website in many places: "You cannot change cabinet front panel dimensions and drivers' placement without needing a new crossover - and I cannot help.". Fair enough. I certainly don't begrudge him this.
@LineSource, Thanks for the suggestions. I've been using dsp in all of my diy follies over the last 6 years. One nagging question I have is what good passive crossovers with shallow slopes can do. I have plenty of amps and have looked heaps at both the SB29 and WO24.
What do you think a REAL 3way would add that the 2.5way won't provide? I know this is a subjective question, but I would appreciate your thoughts!
I made a WAW a couple of years back with a 12" pro helper woofer in a Karlsonator that certainly put a smile on my dial often, but it tickled an eigenmode or two in my room and was boomy on quite a few songs. I want to stay away from this. I'm sure that my implementation wasn't the best, but given the relative paucity of time that I have for DIY, a proven design seems like a better solution. Hah! ... and now I want to change a proven design!
any other thoughts on this project?
Thinking of building this thing or the Rinjani kit from SBA...
Thinking of building this thing or the Rinjani kit from SBA...
Jintani
If you are thinking of SB Satori designs, I'd suggest the "Jintanis" - crossover by Jeff Bagby. Just completed, Madisound and Meniscus should have kits pretty soon.
Facebook DIY Loudspeaker Pad
If you are thinking of SB Satori designs, I'd suggest the "Jintanis" - crossover by Jeff Bagby. Just completed, Madisound and Meniscus should have kits pretty soon.
Facebook DIY Loudspeaker Pad
I've skimmed over the Facebook link, but can't find info on cabinet dimensions. Perhaps I've just missed it. Any chance you could provide a link to this as well?
Thanks!
you are correct. Javad is a master craftsman, but he does not produce Cad drawings for his builds. I'm sure he will answer your question(s), or if you can wait, SB should have some plans when they post the kit details.
astrojet,
The 10" SB29NRX75 commonly uses a 305mm(12") wide cabinet.
Unless you want to grind down the metal frame about 5mm/side. 🙂
There are several high quality woofers(Fs<28Hz, Qts ~ 0.37) which will fit a 280mm wide cabinet. The goal is a 3-way design with separate crossover ranges for the modest Fs midrange and the low Fs woofer.... no large frequency overlap as in typical 2.5-way shared crossovers.
The 10" SB29NRX75 commonly uses a 305mm(12") wide cabinet.
Unless you want to grind down the metal frame about 5mm/side. 🙂
There are several high quality woofers(Fs<28Hz, Qts ~ 0.37) which will fit a 280mm wide cabinet. The goal is a 3-way design with separate crossover ranges for the modest Fs midrange and the low Fs woofer.... no large frequency overlap as in typical 2.5-way shared crossovers.
My baffles are 300mm wide (25mm thick) but they are housed in a cabinet that resembles two aerofoils back to back.
Based upon one picture of the Jintani, the Satori driver set looks like:
1.1" Satori TW29DN-B
5" Satori MR13P
9½” Satori WO24P
You will also find crossovers for the 5" Satori MR13P with the:
--- the SB26STCN dome tweeter which has a smaller motor diameter for shorter C-to-C
--- the SB21SDC with a smaller diameter dome for wider high frequency polar response
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