Troels Jenzen ER still a good option???

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Just about ready to pull the trigger on my next build. I have only built a set of Seas Idunn's in the past and they are good, but i am building a new house soon and want a good set of front speakers that will do home theater as well as stereo music.

I have been discussing with Troels and Jantzen and pretty much decided on the Jenzen ER kit with the better crossover components.

The only thing i am not 100% sure about is crossovers. I am happy enough soldering so can figure it out, but if i need to change something to correct sound then i may need some guidance. This will be with any speaker that requires me to build a crossover though i guess.

Can any one give some opinions on this speaker? maybe people that have built it in the past? I have read a few builds and people all seem very happy with them. Just wantd to make sure i am heading the right way as its a reasonable amount of money for the parts
 
Troels likes to voice his speakers with a tilted down FR which clearly
shows on his measurements. That is his preference. If you are that kind
of guy, you will probably like them more than Idunn's. Additional bass
driver will improve bass performance.

If you were willing to do your own design, I would have suggested to get a
bass driver and make a 3 way with your Idunn's. Those are already high quality
drivers. Since this is not what you plan to do, building a kit like Jenzen ER
is a fine course of action. Even if it fails to meet one's expectations, it could
always be modified and this is always good news.
 
Yeah I was looking into another idunn kit with a bass driver but I just don't know enough to successfully make something. I did post on here about a idunn kit with the seas l26roy sub's in separate cabinets below but think a dedicated three way with a separate sub in the theather will be easier to not mess up.
 
Troels likes to voice his speakers with a tilted down FR which clearly
shows on his measurements. That is his preference.

I'm using a pair of Jenzen NEXT. So I visited an audioshow couple of weeks ago and listened to some very, very expensive speakers (MBL, LUA, Daudio). When I came home I fired up my set and I can only say that the Jenzen Next is doing very, very well against the set ups I heard on that show. Troels his Jenzen designs are very good in my opinion.
 
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I'm using a pair of Jenzen NEXT. So I visited an audioshow couple of weeks ago and listened to some very, very expensive speakers (MBL, LUA, Daudio). When I came home I fired up my set and I can only say that the Jenzen Next is doing very, very well against the set ups I heard on that show. Troels his Jenzen designs are very good in my opinion.

Cool. That's what i wanted to hear.
I think i will go with these and start building. Hopefully if i need some help with the crossover side later, someone may be able to assist
 
+1 for adding a 10" ported woofer to your Idunn

I suspect your Idunn with a sealed port will sound close to the Jensen ER top box. The box is narrow enough to already push the baffle step compensation Xover circuits into the Idunn Xover, and this will simplify the woofer Xover. Because room size and placement has a large effect on bass Xover tuning, gaining some education in Xover design could offer better sound than building the baseline(generic) Jensen ER woofer circuit.

Adding a 10" ported or TL woofer will allow you to audition the 3-way bass extension at a fraction of the cost of a totally new speaker. If this size 3-way fits your home, you should consider the latest, greatest, SATORI MW16P-8(see curves) as a future update. There are several DIY Xovers for the Satori, and more to come.

PERHAPS, the best question to ask is "what 10" woofer the DIY BrainTrust would recommend for the Idunn?". The Seas CA26RFX used in Troels Jenzen, or ????


Very similar cone surface area:
W18NX001 Effective Piston Area 126 cm2
SATORI MW16P-8 Effective Piston Area 119 cm2

6½” SATORI MW16P-8 ~ $175
 

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+1 for adding a 10" ported woofer to your Idunn

I suspect your Idunn with a sealed port will sound close to the Jensen ER top box. The box is narrow enough to already push the baffle step compensation Xover circuits into the Idunn Xover, and this will simplify the woofer Xover. Because room size and placement has a large effect on bass Xover tuning, gaining some education in Xover design could offer better sound than building the baseline(generic) Jensen ER woofer circuit.

Adding a 10" ported or TL woofer will allow you to audition the 3-way bass extension at a fraction of the cost of a totally new speaker. If this size 3-way fits your home, you should consider the latest, greatest, SATORI MW16P-8(see curves) as a future update. There are several DIY Xovers for the Satori, and more to come.

PERHAPS, the best question to ask is "what 10" woofer the DIY BrainTrust would recommend for the Idunn?". The Seas CA26RFX used in Troels Jenzen, or ????


Very similar cone surface area:
W18NX001 Effective Piston Area 126 cm2
SATORI MW16P-8 Effective Piston Area 119 cm2

6½” SATORI MW16P-8 ~ $175

I would really love to do this, but wouldn't know where to start. If someone knew what driver I should use and what box to make and crossover to build I'd be fine :)

Is it just the Elliot's site that has info on building crossovers and boxes. I am not ready to buy right now anyway, so I guess I can start reading and may know enough to go this way if I learn enough.
 
If someone knew what driver I should use and what box to make and crossover to build I'd be fine.

Can anyone help alex?

The Idunn is a very good speaker worth keeping.(plots)

If/when you need extra speakers, most reviews would favor investing in the new Satori MW16P-8 over the older Jenzen W18NX001 or ER18RNX.(less cone breakup, flatter SPL/freq, lower distortion, flatter impedance/freq)

1) Does anyone in diyAudio have a woofer design with Xovers for a 3-way using the Idunn with a sealed port?

2) Does anyone in diyAudio have a 3-way Satori MW16P-8 design with a woofer that can be adapted to work with the Idunn? Goal: option to swap in 2-way Satori top for front HT speakers and use Idunn as rear HT or bedroom speakers.


"Put a sock in it!" If you have a friend with a woofer and a flexible electronic 2-way Xover, you could put a sock in the Idunn port and experiment with a crude deep bass 3-way. Room placement, wall bass boost, floor bounce...
 

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I would really love to do this, but wouldn't know where to start. If someone knew what driver I should use and what box to make and crossover to build I'd be fine :)

Erm... Anything else you could possibly add to that wish list?
Small point: I've experimented with Troels' suggestions and found them to be far less impressive in real life than his well presented info would suggest.
Waste of; time, energy and Coin IMO.
But hey! some lessons are best aquired Firsthand
 
Erm... Anything else you could possibly add to that wish list?
Small point: I've experimented with Troels' suggestions and found them to be far less impressive in real life than his well presented info would suggest.
Waste of; time, energy and Coin IMO.
But hey! some lessons are best aquired Firsthand

The smile at the end was suggesting i was joking. I wouldn't expect someone to do all this for me, was simply stating how little i currently know to achieve it myself.

Which Troels builds have you done that were no good? I haven't heard any bad things from people that have done the Jensen builds. I wouldnt really call it a waste of coin as i will require drivers/crossover parts regardless. Wood is cheap enough, so just time and energy.

Like i mentioned, I'll start reading up on box design and see if adding a bass woofer to my idunns will be achievable for me.

Thanks again for everyones info
 
Where would be the easiest place to learn about this?
The elliots site has heaps of reading and don't know how
much will be relevant to what i need to know

Here would be the easiest. You would need a measurement gear
(decent sound card, measurement mic and free software, possibly
or not a mic preamp, one channel of amp) a simulator for box and
FR ( J.Bagby's PCD or Boxsim) so you don't waste much money on
parts you don't need and learn how to use these.

Once you choose your bass driver, the one with reasonable sensitivity
and bass extension, you would measure its TS parameters using software
like REW or ARTA to see how well they compare to manufacturers data
and use the measured numbers in a box simulator so you know how much
volume for acceptable bass performance would be needed.

Then you would build a bass box and put it close to Idunn and do impedance
and FR measuremets which you could import to a simulator for trying
out different parts until you find a schematic that works reasonably and
do the measurements with mentioned parts to double check and make
any modifications. Some passive parts are always welcome to have for
modifications.

The goal would be to have FR of both of them( Idunn and sub) in the
same level with appropriate acoustical summing at the XO point.
 
Here would be the easiest. You would need a measurement gear
(decent sound card, measurement mic and free software, possibly
or not a mic preamp, one channel of amp) a simulator for box and
FR ( J.Bagby's PCD or Boxsim) so you don't waste much money on
parts you don't need and learn how to use these.

Once you choose your bass driver, the one with reasonable sensitivity
and bass extension, you would measure its TS parameters using software
like REW or ARTA to see how well they compare to manufacturers data
and use the measured numbers in a box simulator so you know how much
volume for acceptable bass performance would be needed.

Then you would build a bass box and put it close to Idunn and do impedance
and FR measuremets which you could import to a simulator for trying
out different parts until you find a schematic that works reasonably and
do the measurements with mentioned parts to double check and make
any modifications. Some passive parts are always welcome to have for
modifications.

The goal would be to have FR of both of them( Idunn and sub) in the
same level with appropriate acoustical summing at the XO point.

Hmmm. This does seem like a lot to take in for my first "no kit" build. I think i may still build the kit as Troels does it.
I'll get the measurement gear and learn how to use it all with the gear i've got and start working on a set of 2 ways with cheap drivers for the computer or something. It's a big investment to take with expensive gear when i dont know what im doing yet.

Have a good sound card already so I'll do some searching on here for mics and preamps and start playing with it to see how to read it all.
 
I don't think you need all that...
Just - select some suitable drivers that match the sensitivity of your Idunn woofers, do some modeling in Unibox, & pick the one you like & build the box. Then - the crossover: find the baffle step frequency of your existing enclosure (115/width in metres), & find the required 1st order inductor using an on-line calculator. Use a good quality (low R) inductor - Ferrite core is probably the best unless you're playing a Stadium levels.
Tweaking - depends on music taste & your room, but if you like Rock or punchy bass, tune the boxes a bit higher for a 1-2 dB bump down low, don't go overboard though.
 
Another question. Are Troels Jenzens going to be ok in a theater room that is 5 x 4 meters? I want to build it 6 x 5 meters but may have to live with a 5x4...

Also, will there be a centre speaker kit that will work with the Jenzens? I'd hate to build them and find out i have to design my own center speaker which i am afraid i won't be able to do.
 
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