Hello,
I have 4" fullrange driver without data. I want to design an transmissionline for it, what are the best designsteps of going about?
1. Take a random 4" full range driver, design an transsmissionline cabinet for it.
2. Measure it with my microphone
3. Tweak the speaker and theoritically design the stub if needed
4. Design new speakercabinet with stub
Is this a logical way of going about?
Thanks in advance for all your help and remarks.
I have 4" fullrange driver without data. I want to design an transmissionline for it, what are the best designsteps of going about?
1. Take a random 4" full range driver, design an transsmissionline cabinet for it.
2. Measure it with my microphone
3. Tweak the speaker and theoritically design the stub if needed
4. Design new speakercabinet with stub
Is this a logical way of going about?
Thanks in advance for all your help and remarks.
So if I understand you correctly: If I do not want to buy gear to measure T/S data of a coaxial speaker, then I am better off going for a sealed box? Or could I still go for a ported cabinet? The difference between sealed and ported F3 is quite large (+/- 75 Hz to 150 Hz) according to parts-express data of 4" full range speakers).
The original exclosure was 1,5 Liter with coaxial driver in it (so it was less), port had a surface of 240,5 mm2 and 170 mm long.
The original exclosure was 1,5 Liter with coaxial driver in it (so it was less), port had a surface of 240,5 mm2 and 170 mm long.
You could try to find someone who can measure tsp near you. I'm probably too far away (vienna) ...
If not, measuring tsp does not require much gear, if you have a computer with sound/headphone output. Measuring software (such as REW) is free.
If not, measuring tsp does not require much gear, if you have a computer with sound/headphone output. Measuring software (such as REW) is free.
You're jumping all over the place.
First, it's a 4" full range with no data on it.
Then, it's a coax with data from parts-express.
So, which one is it?
If you are not willing to invest in some tools for your DIY journey (which I don't understand), then buy a driver with known specs (from a company that has some good QC so that you can trust those numbers) and simulate the driver in apps like HornResp.
Otherwise, just buy a design that's proven with all the parts and sizing already measured for you.
First, it's a 4" full range with no data on it.
Then, it's a coax with data from parts-express.
So, which one is it?
If you are not willing to invest in some tools for your DIY journey (which I don't understand), then buy a driver with known specs (from a company that has some good QC so that you can trust those numbers) and simulate the driver in apps like HornResp.
Otherwise, just buy a design that's proven with all the parts and sizing already measured for you.
There may be a number (in white ink) on the back of the cone. That should give you the manufacturer at the very least.