Hi,
I'm new here, but it seems like a great forum.
I'm going to build my first hi-fi amp now, and I have been looking at the Gainclone. Is this a good schematic?: http://www.shine7.com/audio/gainclonev1.htm
But I'm not shure what transformer would be good. I'm going to build a stereo amp, and I have been looking at this: http://www1.schukat.com/schukat/sch...21&refDoc=CMS631AA3DDCE1B756DC1256D7900261D0A
Will that be ok? Will there be any advantages in using a bigger transformer?
Espen
I'm new here, but it seems like a great forum.
I'm going to build my first hi-fi amp now, and I have been looking at the Gainclone. Is this a good schematic?: http://www.shine7.com/audio/gainclonev1.htm
But I'm not shure what transformer would be good. I'm going to build a stereo amp, and I have been looking at this: http://www1.schukat.com/schukat/sch...21&refDoc=CMS631AA3DDCE1B756DC1256D7900261D0A
Will that be ok? Will there be any advantages in using a bigger transformer?
Espen
Thanks!
Your amp looks great! I found that Hammond chassis that you used now, so I think I'll go for that one. Maybe the 1444-28, which is a bit smaller.
Your amp looks great! I found that Hammond chassis that you used now, so I think I'll go for that one. Maybe the 1444-28, which is a bit smaller.
What about bridge rectifiers. How much current do they have to handle?
Are any of these ok?:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Bridge-Rectifiers-c-522-p-3.html
Are any of these ok?:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Bridge-Rectifiers-c-522-p-3.html
Painkiller82 said:Thanks!
Your amp looks great! I found that Hammond chassis that you used now, so I think I'll go for that one. Maybe the 1444-28, which is a bit smaller.
The Hammond chassis are good and very reasonably priced. Yeah, if you look at mine, you will see a lot of unused real estate so you can easily go smaller.
Cheers,
Gio.
Painkiller82 said:What about bridge rectifiers. How much current do they have to handle?
Are any of these ok?:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/Bridge-Rectifiers-c-522-p-3.html
Hi,
the peak current and the average current through the rectifier is determined by the design of the capacitor input filter hung on the end.
8ohm speakers need +-20mF/channel for deep bass but, almost all chipampers believe this to be balderdash. I stick with this recommendation.
Reduce the smoothing to +-4.7mF/rectifier and your 10A 280V version will survive without any added resistance to reduce peak current.
If you go for +-10mF then, 10A may run too hot.
Steve has the perfect transformers for the LM3886 for a great price.
You can build true dual mono for this price.
http://www.apexjr.com/miscellaneous.html#Transformers
XFM-D0012 is the part #.
http://www.apexjr.com/images/AdireToroid.JPG
You can build true dual mono for this price.
http://www.apexjr.com/miscellaneous.html#Transformers
XFM-D0012 is the part #.
http://www.apexjr.com/images/AdireToroid.JPG
AndrewT said:
Hi,
the peak current and the average current through the rectifier is determined by the design of the capacitor input filter hung on the end.
8ohm speakers need +-20mF/channel for deep bass but, almost all chipampers believe this to be balderdash. I stick with this recommendation.
Reduce the smoothing to +-4.7mF/rectifier and your 10A 280V version will survive without any added resistance to reduce peak current.
If you go for +-10mF then, 10A may run too hot.
Is that assuming a single 10A rectifier per channel?
For what it's worth I am using 20,000uF and two 8A 1000v SIL rectifiers per channel, one rectifier doing the positive side and the other one doing the negative side. With a pair of 8 ohm speakers at near full volume, playing music, the rectifiers on both channels are not even warm to touch, without any heatsinking. Same thing with a pair of "4 - 8 ohm" speakers I have.
Thanks
I have already ordered the parts, and I ordered these rectifiers:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/KBU1006-pr-24042.html
Will they work ok?
I bought the parts based on this schematic:
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Chip/LM3886_CA/LM3886_CA.htm
The smoothing caps are here 10mF, but does that mean that I might burn the rectifiers? I'm going to use 4 Ohm speakers, at least for now.
I have already ordered the parts, and I ordered these rectifiers:
http://www.banzaieffects.com/KBU1006-pr-24042.html
Will they work ok?
I bought the parts based on this schematic:
http://diyaudioprojects.com/Chip/LM3886_CA/LM3886_CA.htm
The smoothing caps are here 10mF, but does that mean that I might burn the rectifiers? I'm going to use 4 Ohm speakers, at least for now.
As above... If my experience is anything to go by then I think you should be totally fine with that power supply schematic and those 10A rectifiers.
I use the 8A version of those in the same configuration, though I would have used 10A if I could find them at the time, and they don't even get warm. I do have a separate supply per channel though (i.e a total of 4 rectifiers). I think even with a single supply for both channels (2 rectifiers in total) would work fine.
I wouldn't worry about it.
Be sure to use a 100W-ish light bulb in series with the mains live before the transformer when testing the amplifier. It can help protect against some faults faults and, I believe, possibly prevent damage. The light bulb should light up brightly for a second or two while the supply capacitors initially charge and then go dim / not lit up at all. If it stays bright then something is wrong.
Also, don't have your face too near the thing incase you have accidentally wired a capacitor reverse polarity etc and things explode! Might even be worth wearing safety goggles. I've got the supply reversed before on a tiny little opamp (NE5532) and you'd be surprised how violently they can explode. The chip's top flew up to the ceiling with a very, very loud bang!
I use the 8A version of those in the same configuration, though I would have used 10A if I could find them at the time, and they don't even get warm. I do have a separate supply per channel though (i.e a total of 4 rectifiers). I think even with a single supply for both channels (2 rectifiers in total) would work fine.
I wouldn't worry about it.
Be sure to use a 100W-ish light bulb in series with the mains live before the transformer when testing the amplifier. It can help protect against some faults faults and, I believe, possibly prevent damage. The light bulb should light up brightly for a second or two while the supply capacitors initially charge and then go dim / not lit up at all. If it stays bright then something is wrong.
Also, don't have your face too near the thing incase you have accidentally wired a capacitor reverse polarity etc and things explode! Might even be worth wearing safety goggles. I've got the supply reversed before on a tiny little opamp (NE5532) and you'd be surprised how violently they can explode. The chip's top flew up to the ceiling with a very, very loud bang!
Thanks!
I'm a new member so it takes some time before my messages show up. So I actually posted that last question before you posted the perfect answer to it 🙂
I will try the parts I ordered first, and if anything burns up I just have to try something else. The lm3886 shuts down if it gets too hot right?
I'm a new member so it takes some time before my messages show up. So I actually posted that last question before you posted the perfect answer to it 🙂
I will try the parts I ordered first, and if anything burns up I just have to try something else. The lm3886 shuts down if it gets too hot right?
Hi,
I don't think there is any significant difference in dual/single rectifier when considering power dissipation for a single channel dual polarity PSU. The main difference is the isolation of power ground from the transformer, but that is irrelevant to amperage in this context.
It's nice to know that 8A rectifiers can cope with +-10mF without resort to added resistance and not overheating in a ClassAB amplifier.
I don't think there is any significant difference in dual/single rectifier when considering power dissipation for a single channel dual polarity PSU. The main difference is the isolation of power ground from the transformer, but that is irrelevant to amperage in this context.
It's nice to know that 8A rectifiers can cope with +-10mF without resort to added resistance and not overheating in a ClassAB amplifier.
that's the claim of the manufacturer.Painkiller82 said:The lm3886 shuts down if it gets too hot right?
New members are under moderation so if you have managed to behave yourself the first 5 posts you will be let free. Should be done now I should think.🙂Painkiller82 said:Thanks!
I'm a new member so it takes some time before my messages show up. So I actually posted that last question before you posted the perfect answer to it 🙂

I'm using +/-30V , 19,000uF per rail, (2) single secondary trafos, each with a 12A/1000V rectifier and they don't exceed room temperature driving 94+ db/8ohm speakers to volume. My setup doesn't even come close to taxing this amp/psu combo.
Have fun with your project!
7/10
Have fun with your project!
7/10
Thanks for all the great answers!
I'll probably have a lot more questions when I start building this thing. This seems like a great forum with many people who like to help 🙂
Espen
I'll probably have a lot more questions when I start building this thing. This seems like a great forum with many people who like to help 🙂
Espen
calculating volt amps?
Can someone please clarify calculating voltamps with these power transformers?
For instance, if you use V * A on the secondaries, you see 21.5V * 2.7A = 58.06 VA per secondary. For both secondaries, you then have 116.1VA total.
However, people are talking about 160 VA min for these amps. Do you actually calculate VA on the primary (giving 297VA for a single primary), even though amps are specified per the secondary?
Thanks much
Can someone please clarify calculating voltamps with these power transformers?
For instance, if you use V * A on the secondaries, you see 21.5V * 2.7A = 58.06 VA per secondary. For both secondaries, you then have 116.1VA total.
However, people are talking about 160 VA min for these amps. Do you actually calculate VA on the primary (giving 297VA for a single primary), even though amps are specified per the secondary?
Thanks much
RE: calculating volt amps?
Sorry, I neglected to mention that my calculation examples were for the recommended part XFM-D0012 from Apex Jr.
Sorry, I neglected to mention that my calculation examples were for the recommended part XFM-D0012 from Apex Jr.
looks like a 120VA transformer, it's fine for mono or even a lighter powered stereo chipamp.
There is no sharp transition from 120W =bad to 160W =good or something like that.
regards
There is no sharp transition from 120W =bad to 160W =good or something like that.
regards
The LM3886 does 68 Watts RMS into a 4 Ohm load MAX. Add on a few extra watts of pwr for housekeeping and losses and 80VA will cover ONE LM3886 chip full range at any level the chip can tolerate.
The 120VA torid is pretty much ideal for a SINGLE LM3886 run full range.
It will easily handle 2 chips high-passed or moderate to low volume listening.
I have used that exact trafo on both LM3886 and LM3875 chip-amps full range on B&W 805 Matrix speakers.
My co-listener commented that he could feel the port blowing his pants. (speakers were nearfield, ~ 8-10 ft., we were evaluating speaker stand heights from 1 foot to 4 feet.)
I would suggest a good bypassed filter supply >5KuF per rail.
The 120VA torid is pretty much ideal for a SINGLE LM3886 run full range.
It will easily handle 2 chips high-passed or moderate to low volume listening.
I have used that exact trafo on both LM3886 and LM3875 chip-amps full range on B&W 805 Matrix speakers.
My co-listener commented that he could feel the port blowing his pants. (speakers were nearfield, ~ 8-10 ft., we were evaluating speaker stand heights from 1 foot to 4 feet.)
I would suggest a good bypassed filter supply >5KuF per rail.
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